Tapping when cold after sitting a while

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  #1  
Old 05-01-14, 06:05 PM
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Tapping when cold after sitting a while

Have a Suzuki Verona with an inline 6. 75k miles or so. If it sits overnight I get a typical valve rattle sound for the first 10 seconds in warm weather, longer in cold, even when it sounds ok at idle...under a bit of load I still hear it in the cold. After a minute or less...goes away no matter the temp.

It's gunky engine from what I've found, and I'm not the best at maintenance, esp on a 10 y/o POS. Only about 10K miles per year...if that.

Looking in the filler cap I can see gunk built up. No white cream though.

So...recommendations? I was thinking some sort of flush in a bottle then immediate oil filter change. But should I go a bit heavier oil or stay with the thinner recommended stuff? They say 5W-30 for all temps...10W-40 above 0 degrees, which we never see (thats what I've been using). Some sort of additive?

Wifey has a new car...so this is my beater for a while. Prefer not to have the engine blow, I'll deal with all the other stuff.
 
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Old 05-01-14, 06:20 PM
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Had a similar problem on a 304 V8 in a 73 Jeep renegade. Turned out the rubber valve guides deteriorated and needed replacing with neoprene guides. That was the only symptom I had, too, was the ticking at initial start. Oil was not being kept in prime to lube the valve train. I'd clean the inside of the engine, maybe use some Seafoam, and change to a little heavier oil. Hey, couldn't hurt, huh?
 
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Old 05-01-14, 07:56 PM
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Yer right...can't hurt. I'll drive this thing til it's running on 2 cylinders. I may have to come to the east coast just to find a truck worth buying as a replacement. People are darn prod of them out here. 10+ y/o Ranger, 4 cyl, with 170K, kinda beat up outside...$4500. Say what?

'99-'00 Dakota V-6, bad exterior, even worse interior, with slapper bars on the springs (why?), $3200.

Sure...no rust...but who cares if they've been beat to death otherwise?

Jeez...what happened to $100 pick-ups?
 
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Old 05-01-14, 08:04 PM
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Jeez...what happened to $100 pick-ups?
Weren't they all scrapped for 125.00
 
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Old 05-01-14, 08:48 PM
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Either sticky lifters or tappets, paending what you have.
Same goes for my son's Infinity.
Tell you what worked:
1. Seafoam in engine oil, drove for few hundred miles, change oil
2. change oil with heavier than recommended. In his case, we switched from 5w20 to 10w30. More viscous oil builds up pressure faster
3. Add Lucas. It makes oil even thicker.
You may want to do Seafom treatment twice in a row. With about 500 miles apart. It de-gunks oil and engine very well.
2 questions for you.
1. Why would you call that car POS? It's a decent vehicle.
2. How did you become a supermod here - and not being good on maintenance? Shame on you.
 
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Old 05-01-14, 10:48 PM
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Thanks Igor(?)

As to yer questions...
1. Why would you call that car POS? It's a decent vehicle.

Decent yes...but only sold for 2yrs. Parts very hard to get and expensive. Bad engineering. Drop the steering column to replace the ignition cylinder? Seriously?

2. How did you become a supermod here - and not being good on maintenance? Shame on you.
Hey, I'm a repair guy....fix it, get it working, do it best you can. And I'm here waaaaay too much...lol.
 
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Old 05-02-14, 05:21 AM
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Vic, I know what you mean about truck prices. Back when I was shopping for a 4x4 truck I noticed that on the other side of the mountain the prices were outrageous, I found no shortage of what I was looking for but the prices were about 50% higher than this side of the mountain

The 1st thing I'd do is change the oil! I've had multiple beaters over the yrs that used less oil or sounded better after a few oil changes. Not sure I'd use oil heavier than 10w40 on a modern day engine.

If the only qualification for super mod was maintaining your vehicles I'd be a super duper mod
 
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Old 05-02-14, 10:17 AM
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Yep, probably nothing more than a lifter bleeding down a bit. This is not really that uncommon with various vehicle makes and certain models. Won't really cause any additional problems, and can go on for many miles.

Quote:
"I was thinking some sort of flush in a bottle then immediate oil filter change."

This can be risky. Loosening up any sludge buildup and then feeding it to the various bearings is not always a good idea (especially on engines with over 100K).
 
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Old 05-02-14, 11:00 AM
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Yeah, I thought about that. It's likely due to my driving habits. It warms up to operating, but I can drive from one end of town to the other in 10 min...in the high traffic hours. So a lot of short trips.

Maybe just a couple of oil changes with quality oil over the next few months.
 
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Old 05-02-14, 11:58 AM
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MY TWO CENTS...

Do not flush nor use any type of oil slug removal chemicals for the reasons mentioned above. Bad Idea!

IMO better solution would be to use a lighter viscosity oil (Recommend weights) so the oil gets into circulation sooner in cold weather or cooler weather. Change oil and filter. Drive about 500+ miles and change oil and filter again. Doubt frequent oil changes will totally solve the noisy lifter problem but should or may lessen both the noise, remove some slug and hopefully not cause further damages.

Based upon my prior knowledge, vehicle needs to be run long enough and at thermostat engine running temperature to heat up the oil to evaporate any moistures held within the oil and internal parts etc. If possible try to avoid short trips and slow city traffic speeds where possible. Drive it on the highway as often as possible for as long as possible between next few oil changes and for as many future trips.

IMO, might not be cost effective to fix it with that amount of miles on the odometer...

 
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Old 05-02-14, 02:35 PM
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The only time I get on the highway is a trip to Vegas every few months...lol. Temps and moisture isn't much of a problem here...unless it rains in the winter time. I haven't even seen dew on my car for the last 7 yrs. Like I said...it warms up pretty quickly. By the time I get half way to anywhere, it's at op temp.
 
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Old 05-02-14, 05:54 PM
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Ha0ha.
Vic, super mods should knights in shining armor, guide for everyone to follow.

As of remark on NOT to use any additives... Oh did I hear that MANY times. Stands no chance against years of me Seafoaming my cars, friends cars, relatives cars, forum cars - always with good results no issues. Had many Thank You PM-d.

You did read my suggestion, didn't you? So forum basically told you SAME, just in pieces and with one objections to Seafoam.
You definitely run carbon build up on your engine. even worse, EGR and Cat will go soon. Cat simply does not gets hot enough to burn deposits. So you have deposits everywhere and all over. One way or another, you have to run some sort of cleaner.
I can only suggest what WORKED for me on MANY cars. Seafoam, you can even pour it into combustion chambers and let it sit overnight. De-carbonates springs. Also, puts up phenomenal smoke show, military grade smoke curtain when you start her up next day
 
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Old 05-02-14, 06:41 PM
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I'll probably try the seafoam, maybe half strength...let it dissolve a bit at a time?..I've used it before and was very happy with how it seemed to clean things up in small engines.

Heck...not like the engine is gonna blow up on day one. Maybe I'll take a trip over to NV afterwards..thats about 70 miles round trip.
 
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Old 05-02-14, 08:29 PM
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I had Seafoam in my Ranger oil for 2500 miles out of curiosity.
I add it every time before oil changes, drive for 500 or so, then drain oil, add flush oil, run for 15 minutes or drive around (you can't rev my Hybrid) then drain (comes out black) and then change filter and add good oil.
You can also do "pre-start" technique if you want to. Turn key and start cranking engine, but don't let it start. Let go of key, count to 10 seconds, then start her. Starter action activates oil pump and that builds up oil pressure in lines.
You also need to run 2 cans of Seafoam 1 per tank, via gas lines. Will clean deposits in EGR and cat. Some pour half a gallon paint thinner into tank and get on FWY for an hr or 2, to burn deposits out of cat.
 
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