Will dead battery in car cause keyless entry problems?

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  #1  
Old 07-01-14, 11:55 PM
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Will dead battery in car cause keyless entry problems?

and what if you don't have access by keys? My car is only a remote smart key system...no keys anywhere. There is however a touch pad on the window but i'm assuming that too is powered by the car battery (only for if u don't have ur remote with u).
 
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  #2  
Old 07-02-14, 09:50 AM
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Are you sure it doesn't have a keyed lock somewhere? For the hatch or hood maybe? I've seen cars that had no keyed locks except on maybe one door (stupid idea) but not with none, unless the hood could somehow be opened from the outside.

Maybe if you told us what kind of car it is, or called your dealer?
 
  #3  
Old 07-02-14, 07:51 PM
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all cars have a back up key for dead batteries. its hidden in your remote. and key hole is under the button on your drivers door. you tube it.
 
  #4  
Old 07-04-14, 07:32 AM
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Sorry, there IS a key hole in my door (and trunk) but what I meant was that there is no key in the remote pad. I also don't have the original key (it's a used car) and the dealer told me the original owner never gave them a key either. They told me I can "make" the physical key by calling those keysmith or locksmith people and they can make a physical key for me in case I'd ever need it if battery was dead and I couldn't get into my car.

I don't know how much that costs but I'm guessing around 50 to 60 bucks?

I should clarify that the car never originally came with a smart keyless system. It was ADDED by the original owner. So the smart keyless system he installed doesn't have an original key in the remote for the door of the car.
 
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Old 07-04-14, 08:53 AM
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Since it is an aftermarket system, You should be able to go to a dealer or locksmith - with your title to prove that the car is yours - and they can make replacement keys. Depending on brand of car, you may need separate door and ignition keys.
 
  #6  
Old 07-04-14, 09:00 AM
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Depending on the age of the car and type of lock, the key could run more than that. Most times on newer cars they have to get the key code based on the VIN number.

My dealer had to order a new key/fob from the factory, since they lost one of the fobs for my new Kia. The fob and key ran about $180. Then they had to re-order just the key, because it wouldn't start the car. After the second key didn't work either, they had a local locksmith make one. I saw the paperwork, he charged them $60.

Are you going to share the type of your vehicle, or is it a secret?
 
  #7  
Old 07-04-14, 12:54 PM
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First question - have you tried powering the entry system using a battery charger or jumpers?
Positive to the positive battery terminal via the LARGE cable on the starter motor,
Negative to the negative battery terminal via the engine block.

Safety note, do NOT hook up while under the car. Hook up the cables FIRST, get out from under the car, THEN apply power.
With an aftermarket keyless system, there's a chance the car will start or you'll power the starter solenoid, which means the car will try and run you over if you're underneath it.

Second question, have you checked if your local police have a slim jim for people who lock their keys in their cars? Sounds like you just need to open a door, then should be able to pop the hood and charge or replace the battery.
 
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Old 07-04-14, 01:09 PM
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Hal...he isn't having the issue right now. If you look at some of his other threads, he has a lot of electronics in his and wants to add more, so I think he's just inquiring for the future.
 
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Old 07-04-14, 01:10 PM
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My car is only a remote smart key system...no keys anywhere
Ok.... so you have a regular car with an aftermarket remote start/keyless entry system. That would mean that all doors have a keyhole.




Hal....this is a hypothetical issue that the OP is asking about. He hasn't got locked out yet.
 
  #10  
Old 07-04-14, 01:20 PM
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That would mean that all doors have a keyhole.
Many (most?) new cars only have a keyhole on the drivers door. My wifes old SUV had the hatch keyed as well, but no passenger doors. Couple of model years later they even eliminated the hatch keyhole. Kinda stupid if you ask me, since you had to take a large panel off to access the latch mechanism. If the power locks fail (like ours did), without a keyhole, it would be almost impossible to get open w/o cutting the panel apart. Though I would hope they put an access panel in?

Her new Kia Soul only has one on the drivers door. And I checked to make sure there was an access to the hatch latch in case of failure
 
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Old 07-04-14, 03:15 PM
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My nissan only has a key hole in the trunk... You have to open the trunk, flip down a seat and crawl in...
 
  #12  
Old 07-05-14, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Gunguy45

Hal...he isn't having the issue right now. If you look at some of his other threads,
Originally Posted by PJmax

Hal....this is a hypothetical issue
Ah, hadn't seen that there were other threads.

Well then, updated answer.

#1 Disconnect a battery terminal, see if the keyless entry works.
If it doesn't still work, try the battery charger to starter & block mechanism, see if that works.


#2
Also, I'd check under the hood, and behind the door panel, is there any "installed by" sticker where
you could find out who installed the keyless entry system?

#3
Google the make/ model of the keyless system, and find out if they have a factory certified installer / service location around - see if they put the system in.
 
  #13  
Old 07-06-14, 07:47 PM
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Thanks for all the helpful replies. I'm really appreciative of this site and its members for their generous feedback.

To get back to my situation, I haven't been locked out "yet". Yes, this is hypothetical and for future purposes as a contingency plan. The reason I'm asking this is because (based on my other threads) my car battery is daily being drained by the in car 2-channel camera system. I only drive the car about 6 minutes work and 6 minutes back each day. I don't think that's enough to keep the car battery fully charged, so with that, and the fact the camera is recording all evening and all night until next morning, I usually get in the car and find the CAMERA SYSTEM IS OFF. Why is it OFF? Because it has an automatic shut off point when a certain low voltage is met, in my case 12V. Once the battery is down to 12V, it'll shut off to protect the battery from being completely drained and unable to start the engine. But over the weekend I decided to lower the setting to 11.8V to see if I can get a bit more recording time out of the battery without being too dangerously close to a dead battery. Unfortunately, the next day when I got into my car, the camera system was OFF so that means the battery had hit 11.8V. Then I tried to start the car, and the battery died. I couldn't start the car but I was able to still turn on things like radio/cd, navigation console, and electronic windows. So I started to wonder, what would happen if the car battery was dead and I had no physical key to get into the car?

The car does have a keyhole on drivers door and trunk, but as I bought this car 2nd hand (2011 Chevy Spark, modified), there was no physical key given to me at purchase, only the Smart Keyless Entry System FOB. It's really slim/flat, probably about the thickness of only 20 playing cards. There's no "hidden" key in the fob. It's completely keyless. There is no button pad either on the door, but there is a touchpad on the front windshield which uses a passcode to manually enter the car if one didn't have the FOB on them (or lost it). My assumption though is that if the car battery is completely dead, neither the FOB nor the touch keypad would have any power to operate right? (unless that was powered separately by some CR2032 button battery lol...but i highly doubt that).

I can't open the hood to jumpstart the battery since I'd have to get into the car first to press the release hatch. I think someone suggested there was still a way to go UNDER the car and somehow reach up to the battery and still jumpstart it? That sounds awfully difficult unless you had a big car jacks to lift it up and get under there.

I was thinking as emergency backup, it would be a good idea to get a physical key made and keep it with me.

Yes, I think the only thing I can do is call a local locksmith or whoever does this kind of stuff and pay them the $$ to have a key made.
 
  #14  
Old 07-06-14, 08:14 PM
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Jeez.....so go get a key made! Some locksmiths may be able to do it if you provide the code from the dealer, or just order from the dealer. Prob $50US or so And why this fixation on cameras in your car? Are you in some sort of crazy crime area? Possibly causing damage to your cars electrical system to power cameras for some reason.....?

I don't understand folks that don't have extra keys...you aren't the first.

No...if the battery is completely dead or below the threshold of the entry devices...yer gonna be stranded.

So when are you going to follow thru on some of the many suggestions made for aux power or a backup battery?

And does this keyless system allow you to use a key if needed? Aftermarket systems are notorious for problems interfacing with the stock system.
 

Last edited by Gunguy45; 07-06-14 at 09:51 PM.
  #15  
Old 07-06-14, 08:45 PM
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how about a pic of your key fob.
 
  #16  
Old 07-07-14, 08:42 AM
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This is the smart key that is installed in the car:
Robot Check

I'm in the process of getting some products that I've been researching and asking about. I'm not going to make a mindless decision and spend hundreds of bucks buying some battery I don't even know if it will work. It's important for me to ask and cover all basis or as much that comes to my mind.

I don't want a 2nd car battery. I've decided that a long time ago. If anything, I'd rather swap out my 45 AH battery and see if I can get a 60 or 80 AH battery in there (if it will fit?). But the main things I'm looking to purchase are:

-GoalZero Yeti 150 portable battery ($200, but $300 where I am due to international shipping).
-Schumacher SP-200 2.4W 12V solar battery maintainer OR the Coleman 2.5W 12V battery maintainer. However I still don't know if my car's lighter socket is ALWAYS ON or shuts off when car is off. These solar chargers with 12V DC socket only work when my car is parked IF the lighter socket is ON. If it isn't, then I have to use alligator clips and connect it directly to the car battery when my car is parked but I don't know how that works??? How does the wiring work? I want to just leave the solar panel in the car's dash not have to always clip it on and off in my hood.

I'll eventually get everything I want, but it's painstakingly slow for me also having to ask so many questions. It seems as I'm learning more about these things, newer issues arise and new questions arise (like a rabbit trail).

I've also ordered the MIGHTY JUMP for "IF" my car battery is dead again and I can recharge in 10 to 15 minutes with the Mighty Jump, so I won't get a portable jumper unit.

I've also ordered a car voltage meter which will tell me the voltage of the car battery as it's driving and when it's in parking mode to tell me how much charge I have on it.

So, yes, I am following through on everything I set out to do.
 
  #17  
Old 07-07-14, 08:46 AM
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"And does this keyless system allow you to use a key if needed? Aftermarket systems are notorious for problems interfacing with the stock system."

This is also a good question that crossed my mind before (but hadn't asked yet). I think using a physical key would set off the car alarm but as long as it could open the door to access the car, then it should be alright since I can just turn off the alarm. But waitaminute, if the battery is completely dead that the key fob won't work, then wouldn't the alarm also not work or is the alarm self-powered by it's own CR2032 button cell battery or something like that?
 
  #18  
Old 07-07-14, 09:05 AM
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As said before your best off taking the cameras off the car battery and have a separate power source.

Two sealed deep cycle 12 volt batterys. Maybe even one will do. Wire in parralel to get double the amps.

A deep cycle batt can be discharged 50% before recharge. One is 75 ah. You can get 30 ah out of it or so, Two will give you 140 ah and youll get 75 ah out of them before recharge.

Since they are sealed put them in the trunk of the car.

Find out what your cameras draw in amps and you can figure what you need.

Then get a 3 stage charge controller. The battery's can be recharged 90% in 3 hours with a 3 stage charger. You need 14.4 volts to do this, and these chargers allow this.

When you get home just recharge.

Those cameras you have will probably run days on two deep cycle battery's..
 
  #19  
Old 07-07-14, 09:32 PM
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Thanks lawrosa for that advice. I don't really want to put in a 2nd car battery. My car is very small and the trunk compartment is already really small (Chevy Spark). The extra weight, the extra space it takes up are among my disadvantages. I'm also not certain how it would affect my alternator (can it charge 2 batteries without any problems? Also, I only drive 12 minutes in total day to work and back home....6 min each way). I guess I'd have to intentionally just drive around for an hour or so to charge them up all the time? Also, is it safe to leave a battery in the car? No fumes, gases or any smells will soak into the upholstery?

I think I would rather try to replace my current car battery which is 45AH with a larger one say 60 AH or so if I can find one that fits in the compartment. More juice capacity = longer camera run times no? I've seen larger vehicles like pick up trucks and SUVs with secondary batteries installed in the trunk but for a itty bitty car like mine, not sure if that's the best route. I'm in the process of getting the GoalZero Yeti 150 portable battery which seems to have great reviews and should be good for what I need it for.

The one thing I do like about the 2nd car battery is just being able to ignore and forget about it after it's installed. Everything would be automatic (charging while driving, automatic power withdrawal when car is off, etc.).
 
  #20  
Old 07-07-14, 10:31 PM
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I don't really want to put in a 2nd car battery.

Separate from your starting battery...

I'm also not certain how it would affect my alternator (can it charge 2 batteries without any problems?
Again seperate. It will not be connected to your car... Separate power system....

Also, is it safe to leave a battery in the car? No fumes, gases or any smells will soak into the upholstery?

Sealed battery's onlys as I stated....

Also, I only drive 12 minutes in total day to work and back home....6 min each way).

Not enough time to charge a battery off the alt... You need external chargers....
 
  #21  
Old 07-09-14, 06:42 AM
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thanks lawrosa for those answers....exactly what I needed to hear. I decided to just get a new car battery today. I went into the shop, took out my old 45 AH battery and bought a new 60 AH battery that fits into my engine compartment. Now I'm hoping the larger capacity battery will have enough charge to not have to worry about the whole 2nd car battery idea. I guess I'll just have to drive it around extra every 2 or 3 days to charge the battery full since my 12 minute daily commute to and from work is not enough to allow the alternator to fully charge my battery (which is then why the car cam which records overnight has less power capacity to work with and is always shut off automatically by morning due to not enough power). I'll see for the next few days how the battery is doing and if the camera is recording longer without shutting off at 12V.
 
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