Accord 2000 cranks but won't start sometimes

Reply

  #1  
Old 04-11-15, 10:55 PM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Naperville, IL
Posts: 110
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Accord 2000 cranks but won't start sometimes

Hi again!

A question about Accord 2000 LX manual, 4door, 2.3 4cyl.

Sometimes (rarely - once every few weeks) the car won't start. Once the battery was dead, once the battery was kinda low, a few times it sounded like it cranks but won't start, but later, in a few hours it would start fine. Yesterday was the most recent incident. The wife drove kids to school, when she was trying to go back the car wouldn't start (but cranked). She left it there, and in the evening I came, and the car started just fine.

Today I asked folks in AutoZone to run the battery test - it was fine. I asked for an alternator test - they said something like "volt stability test failed" but the dude wasn't sure what it implies. The car is working fine today, I double checked voltage just in case - 12.5V.

Any ideas what should be my course of investigation? Is it alternator dying? Is it time to replace it now? Or is it likely something else?

The starter motor is fairly new, under 1 year, and it cranks, so I doubt it's that...

Thanks!

P.S. Also, I figured I should get the battery and alternator tester. Is the digital "Solar BA7" any good? It got good reviews on Amazon, and it should be able to do both battery and alternator...
 

Last edited by Croco; 04-11-15 at 11:00 PM. Reason: add info
  #2  
Old 04-11-15, 11:21 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 61,440
Received 1,412 Votes on 1,306 Posts
If it was a low battery issue it wouldn't crank properly..... most likely very slowly.

It sound to me like you may have a fuel delivery problem... possibly an intermittent or failing electric fuel pump. You'd have to check for fuel rail pressure when the vehicle won't start.
 
  #3  
Old 04-12-15, 07:31 AM
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Canada (near The Motor City)
Posts: 698
Received 11 Votes on 8 Posts
How old is the battery? I would start there.

When it won't start then try jumping the battery with another vehicle. I bet it starts then.

My $0.02 is on the battery
 
  #4  
Old 04-12-15, 08:12 AM
ukrbyk's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA/ Pacific NW
Posts: 3,633
Received 14 Votes on 11 Posts
My 0.0002c is it's dam rotten dirty battery cables. Start there. Also, you likely to have a bad-ish ground somewhere. Either on engine, or on fuse block.
What do you need a tester for? Don't try to treat symptoms, diagnose cause and fix that.
 
  #5  
Old 04-13-15, 12:08 AM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Naperville, IL
Posts: 110
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks!

Is there any way to check that fuel pump before the car starts acting up again?

So far, the only possible diagnosed problem is that failed alternator "volt stability" test. Could anyone explain what that might mean? That is why I thought getting that tester might be a good idea since it can do the alternator test as well, and AutoZone is kinda far from me.

Battery cables look good to me, and the contacts seem good and clean, no residue, and I tighten them when I attach them.

I am not sure how to look for the possible bad ground.

Any other suggestions?
 
  #6  
Old 04-13-15, 10:19 AM
B
Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: United States
Posts: 10
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
volt stability refers to the voltage regulator built internally in the alternator. 12.5v is a bit low. if the engine cranks at regular speed but will not start, it's not a battery/alternator issue. it could be fuel pressure or engine management sensor such as a crankshaft position sensor, it wouldn't send spark to plugs if it doesn't know the crankshaft position. I would 1st check it for faults with a code reader in your diagnostic port, a failing senor should show a fault code. If no faults you'll have to verify fuel pressure, when it's acting up.
 
  #7  
Old 04-13-15, 01:11 PM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Naperville, IL
Posts: 110
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Hi again,

perhaps I wasn't very clear: 12.5V is the voltage on the battery with everything off and cables removed. With the engine running, I measure about 14.3V on the battery terminals.

I'll check for codes - good idea, I should have thought of that...
 
  #8  
Old 04-13-15, 06:25 PM
B
Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: United States
Posts: 10
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Check codes and see if any are stored.

If no faults, verify fuel pressure (when problem is occurs)

A quick way to verify fuel pressure is to depress the schredder valve. It will be somewhere on or near the fuel rail with a small cap on it. When the engine wont start, depress the valve with a small screw driver all the way down momentarily , you should see an abundance of fuel squirt out, if it doesn't spray out you have a fuel pressure issue.Its a quick way to check fuel pressure. Could be a faulty pump or a restriction such as a clogged fuel filter.

Those are the first things I would check.

14.3v alternator output is good, sounds like something maybe wrong with the rectifier, (according to their test) it buffers to voltage to avoid voltage spikes. a fully charged battery should be 12.8-13.0v. Hopefully its not a duralast battery, there junk. If the battery is questionable buy an interstate battery or one from honda, there not any more money than the recycled junk you'll find at your local autoparts store.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: