97 Camry isn't getting coolant to the radiator.

Reply

  #1  
Old 05-05-15, 12:41 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11
Exclamation 97 Camry isn't getting coolant to the radiator.

My BF just replaced the coolant res, one of the hoses coming up from the bottom side that had a hole, we put in a new thermostat and rad cap but this morning when I drove it the car went all the way to red and the coolant res was almost overflowing when the night before it was at the full line. when the car cools down the excess coolant goes back into the radiator and coolant levels in the res are back to normal. can someone please help shed some light on this??
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 05-05-15, 01:34 PM
ukrbyk's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA/ Pacific NW
Posts: 3,208
1. overfilled cooling system
2. did you burp the system after t-stat replacement?
3. faulty t0stat stuck closed. Happens. New does not mean good.
 
  #3  
Old 05-05-15, 02:06 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11
1 is possible as my car was unavoidably on an incline when the procedure was done. 2 my bf did level out the vehicle after the procedure and let the radiator fill up before more was added to the over flow. I can put in a new t-stat. I also read something on the rad cap itself, samething, new does not mean good...??
 
  #4  
Old 05-05-15, 03:08 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: NJ - USA
Posts: 43,483
You've got trapped air in the system yet.

Let engine cool down.
Open radiator cap.
Start engine and turn heat to maximum. Let engine warm up.
Hold accelerator at hi idle for 15 seconds. Repeat several times.
Squeeze the upper radiator hose several times.
Refill the radiator and the bottle.
 
  #5  
Old 05-05-15, 03:38 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11
How will this effect the procedure if my heater doesn't work?
 
  #6  
Old 05-05-15, 03:55 PM
the_tow_guy's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: SW Fla USA
Posts: 11,528
Just an an addition to the procedure, I like to park on an incline to get the radiator as high as possible in relation to the engine. Your heater issue probably not a problem. Silly question maybe, but are you sure new thermostat was put in facing the correct direction?
 
  #7  
Old 05-05-15, 05:11 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11
It was put in properly yes. I watched him replace it the same way he took it out. The nose of the car was on the downward side of the incline.
 
  #8  
Old 05-05-15, 05:31 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: NJ - USA
Posts: 43,483
Air rises.... so if the car was nose down the air would be trapped inside the engine.
You want the air to rise towards the radiator.
 
  #9  
Old 05-05-15, 08:20 PM
ukrbyk's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA/ Pacific NW
Posts: 3,208
Basically what we all telling you is you need to burp, or bleed, the cooling system. Plenty of videos on proper know how and how to on Youtube.
 
  #10  
Old 05-06-15, 04:49 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11
Well since that has already happened, I will explore other causes, fans maybe? Thanks PJmax and the_tow_guy for not being an ass in your responses. Ukrbyk, please have more patience, people come here for help, not to have you make them feel dumb!
 
  #11  
Old 05-06-15, 04:58 AM
the_tow_guy's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: SW Fla USA
Posts: 11,528
Well, we've all done some dumb things ourselves, that's why we know to ask questions like the thermostat direction. Any good mechanic who says he's never made a dumb mistake is lying. The nose down on the car could definitely be a factor and even though it seems to have burped already, I would repeat that step in the troubleshooting.

Doesn't really matter in this discussion, but you didn't mention if this is 4 cyl or V6.
 
  #12  
Old 05-06-15, 06:12 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11
I will try that again. I do not feel dumb, I know I have made mistakes. That guy, however, was getting irritated it seemed whereas you all had patience. It is a 4 cyl with aprox 169400. The car is doing well it seems, I added some engine oil stop leak as it is also blowing white smoke. I don't really want to stress over that just yet. I'd like to get the cooling system fixed, first. I will burp it again, following PJmax's instructions:
Let engine cool down.
Open radiator cap.
Start engine and turn heat to maximum. Let engine warm up.
Hold accelerator at hi idle for 15 seconds. Repeat several times.
Squeeze the upper radiator hose several times.
Refill the radiator and the bottle.
If that is what you suggest. With any luck it really is that simple.
 
  #13  
Old 05-06-15, 07:05 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11
So, I just spoke with my man, it turns out he repeated the burping procedure twice. Let's say, hypothetically, that all the air has been removed from the system. What else could be causing this? GI2
 
  #14  
Old 05-06-15, 07:39 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11
I did a little experiment on my own, and it turns out that neither fan will turn on without the AC on , what could cause that?
 
  #15  
Old 05-06-15, 12:59 PM
ukrbyk's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA/ Pacific NW
Posts: 3,208
So you either have bad temp sensor or bad fan switch or bad harness. When you turn AC on, ECM turns both fans on regardless of temp readings.
Or, simply, bad connection or something was unplugged during all the repairs and not plugged back in.
Please check in proper repair manual if your vehicle has 2 temp sensors. Some do have one at rad and one at engine block and both have to operate properly.
At least fan works.

Troubleshooting Engine Overheating And Antifreeze Leaks | If It Jams

What to Do When Your Engine Overheats - Eric The Car Guy- Stay Dirty!
 
  #16  
Old 05-06-15, 01:04 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11
Thank you, Ukrbyk. I will read this information! I had read into something pointing to exactly what you said. I am going to run a few tests after work, to see if I can pin point the issue. I appreciate your help!
 
  #17  
Old 05-06-15, 05:57 PM
ukrbyk's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA/ Pacific NW
Posts: 3,208
You always welcome. I am glad you taking active part in this. Sitting waiting for someone to pinpoint a solution over the internet is quite ineffective.
Here's basic test for ECT - engine coolant temperature sensor

Handling No Trouble Code Problems

I feel, by now you should be well equipped with all kind sof tests to perform. Cooling system is pretty basic. Fan turns on is good news, nothing is more irritating than to go through harness finding bad fusible link. If, and just IF all sensors and switches etc check out fine - and engine still boils - it's the worse case. Exhaust leak into the coolant.
Have fun. You will save a ton oif $$ and bond with your car by DIY-ing this.
Post back if you get stalled.
 
  #18  
Old 05-07-15, 04:46 AM
the_tow_guy's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: SW Fla USA
Posts: 11,528
Also, as I recall on that Camry, the fans do not initially turn on unless, as noted, the AC is energized. On first start up, with ac OFF, the fan(s) will not kick in until engine reaches operating temperature. As a side note, Igor made passing reference to other possible causes for overheating, so let me ask, how long were you in the "red" when it got hot? Modern engines do not react well to overheating. Of course, unless it had an overheating problem before the repair work the question would still remain as to why the overheat in the first place.
 
  #19  
Old 05-07-15, 06:20 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11
It's been close to the red a couple of times, no longer than 30 seconds both of those times. This last time, 2 days ago, it was about a minute or so. Not too long but in the automotive terms 1 minute could be an eternity. So I'm not sure what that means. The car started to warm up yesterday but it didn't get very hot and cooled back down on its own. I don't need to go anywhere today, but I'm not trying to work on my car with my 3 year old running around the apartment parking lot. I will have to wait until she is back with her dad.
 
  #20  
Old 05-07-15, 07:04 AM
ukrbyk's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA/ Pacific NW
Posts: 3,208
We own several Toyotas and it is NOT normal for temp gauge to even reach mid temp mark. Normally, it simply sits solid right below it. For years.
What you need to do is to make sure that engine is at operating temperature. Modern vehicles may take quite some time to reach it, if not driven. But if temp gauge passes 200 degree mark, cooling fan should start. If it doesn't, then fan does not turn on and coolant overheats. Of course, quick fix is to rig a manual switch to turn it on, except then one needs to drive with one eye glued to the temp gauge, which I did for a year on my proverbial Taurus. Or, as it's summer, simply to remove t-stat and let coolant flow free, waiting out for better opportunity to deal with all this.
But what cautions me is mentioning that engine red lined - and then cooled by itself.
Did the fan turn on?
As that is a sure sign of air bubble in the system. Yes, I do see that system was bled twice. Well, thing is, some vehicles are more "picky" so to speak in that respect. Same Taurus I had to bleed about 5 times till I got it right. Some have special bleeder screw in t-stat housing or somewhere at the cooling system highest point and air collects there.
It can be as simple as internally expanded radiator hose.
If you locate both upper and lower radiator hoses, are they same temp by touch - careful of course - or one is cooler? Are both heater core hoses same temp by touch? Was the heater core set to full heat during burping procedure? Heater core is notorious about trapping air.
 
  #21  
Old 05-07-15, 07:24 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11
I'm with you on air still being in the system. The car has been cooling back down on its own since he replaced all the stuff I mentioned before. Which, like you, leads me to believe that there is still air in the system. My man, however, is convinced that there is not, and that's what's driving me to try to explore other causes. This stupid car is causing issues in sorts of areas, and I can't do much while I have my daughter. While we were fixing the car, one of the hoses was hotter than the other, but right now I can't tell you which was hotter. I am also unaware of the heater core. The fans only turn on when the ac is on.
 
  #22  
Old 05-07-15, 08:22 AM
ukrbyk's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA/ Pacific NW
Posts: 3,208
Sure, take care of your daughter.
Cars are neither stupid or smart and Camry is overall a very good vehicle.
So it simply cooled by itself AFTER engine was turned off, not after it red lined - and then cooled back with engine still running.
If temp gauge reaches 200 degrees or so and fan does not turn on - it's electrical issue as mentioned before.
Heater core is like human appendix - sits on the side of main cooling routes and collects everything. During bleeding procedure, heater core must be set to full hot, to allow coolant fully circulate through it.
Both radiator hoses and heater core hoses must be same temp by touch with engine running at operating temp, which normally is around 190 degrees. If - usually - a lower hose is cooler, that means t-stat got stuck. Also, they both have to be equally firm to squeeze, when filled with coolant under pump pressure. When one self collapses or feels "empty" to touch, it lacks proper coolant flow. Or, has air in it. But that'd have been upper hose then, as air always travels to the top.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
'