2005 ford escape 3.0L v6 got no guts

Reply

  #1  
Old 07-27-15, 12:35 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 18
2005 ford escape 3.0L v6 got no guts

Hi Guys,
Girlfriend and I went on vacation in her 2005 escape. We get to a moderate grade, and the thing has no guts. Had it floored and was struggling to maintain 25 mph, even if I kept it in a lower gear at 4000 rpms. We took it into the nearest place (ford dealership) where they said their diagnostics said new spark plugs should do the trick. They said they would be happy to do it for $600(!!!)--I decided to limp it home and try to same some money. The rig has 138k on it, and besides oil changes, she hasn't had anything done. I changed the air filter (which was filthy), replaced the spark plugs (which looked awful) with autolite iridiums, and replaced the fuel filter (which was nasty). I also ran some fuel injector cleaner through it.

The problem has not been fixed. It's still running terribly. It fires right up when started cold, and the high idle is fine. When it drops to the low idle, however it starts running really rough. It still has no power and if the engine is warm, it starts rough. Also, when I'm at really low RPMs, it occasionally feels like the power brakes don't function properly--the brakes work, but the pedal is less smooth and harder to press. To me, when this happens it feels like the soft, consistent, pneumatic resistance from the pedal is no longer there.

At this point I am completely lost and have no idea what my next step is. Any advice you all could provide would be more than appreciated!
Thanks!
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 07-27-15, 12:43 PM
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: WI/MN
Posts: 18,543
Not completely clear from your question - it used to have more power?
 
  #3  
Old 07-27-15, 12:47 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 18
Yeah, quite a bit. It's like someone took the car it once was and attached a fully loaded horse trailer. It used to be capable of using the passing lanes while going up hills, and now it's barely capable of crawling up the shoulder with the hazards on.
 
  #4  
Old 07-27-15, 12:58 PM
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: WI/MN
Posts: 18,543
The dealership was apparently wrong about spark plugs resolving the issue but has anyone checked the computer for codes since then?
 
  #5  
Old 07-27-15, 01:19 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 43,395
A plugged catalytic convertor can cause a drastic loss of power but they should have been able to test for that.
 
  #6  
Old 07-27-15, 01:38 PM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 20,937
You did the plugs yourself? I had a 2001 Tribute (same basic car) and it required intake removal. Did you replace the seals on the intake? A Member once mentioned that in the past.

I'm not sure but it seems like a bad vacuum leak might cause some of these issues, esp when you mention the brakes.
 
  #7  
Old 07-27-15, 01:48 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 18
Changing plugs did require removing the intake manifold. I did not replace the gasket. When I took it into the dealership the service engine light was not on, because I had just disconnected a battery terminal prior to taking it in. The service engine light is now back on. I have not had it hooked up to a computer since working on it since I've been trying to take care of as much as possible on my own.
 
  #8  
Old 07-27-15, 04:39 PM
ukrbyk's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA/ Pacific NW
Posts: 3,222
Check cat. It's free at Midas. I had same issue with a Ford before and that what it was. Backflow was killing engine.
 
  #9  
Old 07-28-15, 04:44 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 18
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/..._162220066.jpg
I hooked it up to a computer and got two errors, both of which were the same code. I put the address of a photo I took of the scanner with my computer so you guys could see the error code. I'm thinking catalytic converter :-/....what would your next move be?
 
  #10  
Old 07-28-15, 04:49 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 43,395
The only fix for a plugged cat is replacement. You could drill a hole in it and get by for awhile but that isn't something we'd condone.
 
  #11  
Old 07-29-15, 07:52 AM
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: WI/MN
Posts: 18,543
Drilling a hole in it as a test isn't necessarily a bad thing but it would mean you should be replacing it even if that made no difference and therefore ruined a perfectly good one.
 
  #12  
Old 07-29-15, 08:25 AM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 20,937
Uh oh. If it's the cat(s) this is not an easy or cheap job. These are built into the exhaust manifolds. You can get both for about $400 or individually for about $250. Then the real fun begins. Another stupid design.
 
  #13  
Old 07-29-15, 01:57 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 18
Thanks guys. The code indicates a problem with the EGR rather than explicitly having to do with cat converter (p0420). Is it possible that it's just a stuck valve or faulty sensor?
 
  #14  
Old 07-29-15, 05:12 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: NJ - USA
Posts: 43,863
P0402 = Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow (EGR) Excessive Detected

A faulty DPFE sensor (Delta Pressure Feedback of EGR) is a common problem with the Escapes. It's almost impossible to test so it just gets replaced.

A good article on the DPFE sensor.
Delta Pressure Feedback of EGR (DPFE Sensor) - Great Idea, Bad Factory Designs
 
  #15  
Old 07-30-15, 12:08 PM
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 38
If it is the precat off the header pipe, I would be shocked if it could move at all without thinking of Ford acronyms
 
  #16  
Old 07-30-15, 12:29 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 18
I found this guide, which I plan to follow to systematically test the EGR component by component:
Part 1 -How to Test the Ford EGR Valve EGR Vacuum Solenoid, DPFE Sensor

I'm hoping the problems we're experiencing are due to the EGR valve, pressure sensor, or solenoid. I really don't want it to be 1, 2, or 3 of the cat converters

Thanks agian for all your input!
 
  #17  
Old 08-12-15, 12:42 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 18
Hey guys, I had something come up, so wasn't able to get to this as quickly as I would like. Here's an update.
I removed the vacuum line going directly to the EGR. The idle immediately improved. Then I hooked a vacuum pump up to the EGR. When I put a vacuum on it the rough idle returned. The vacuum pressure did not stay steady, but quickly decreased. I checked the connections between the hose and pump and hose and nipple on EGR and I don't think that's where the vaccuum pressure was escaping. I interpreted this as a bad diaphragm in the EGR Valve. Then I hooked the vacuum line back up and headed to auto part store to pick up a new EGR valve. TO my surprise, the car was running remarkably better on the way to the Napa. Unfortunatley, we got hit with a crazy storm while I was in the sotre, and the power went out. I didn't end up buying the part.

So now, the car is running A LOT better. Also, the check engine light hasn't returned, though it's probably only been driven 30-50 miles. I'm wondering if somehow I inadvertently cleared a blockage somewhere when testing the EGR valve initially. Does this make sense? I'm still planning on spending the $50 for a new valve and replacing that in the next day or two. While I have the old valve removed, I'll check where I can for built up carbon.

Does it sound to you guys like this is good to go when I replace the EGR valve? Is my diagnosis of a bad diaphragm inside correct? Thanks a gain for all your help!
 
  #18  
Old 08-12-15, 02:07 PM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 239
a stuck egr valve can cause a rough idle and hard brakes as they should not be open at idle but I don't really think this is all your problem with power loss at 4000 rpm the egr has very little effect on the engine at higher rpm and mainly work at cruising speeds.
so you may still have some issues with the power loss and exhaust restriction from a bad cat or even fuel pressure loss may be causing this.
 
  #19  
Old 08-12-15, 04:05 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 18
Does it make any sense that simply unhooking and then reattaching the vacuum line from EGR valve after testing would result in the car running MUCH better?

After changing the plugs, fuel filter, air filter etc. simply fidgiting with the vacuum line has made the most improvement
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
'