SAAB w Rough Idle and other issues

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  #1  
Old 08-14-15, 02:36 PM
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SAAB w Rough Idle and other issues

Hello all -

SAAB 9-3 2007 180K Miles

Car ran fine for a year or so after I purchased it used. It then started having a problem where it started, then turned off within 2 seconds. Typically it would then turn over and stay on after the second try. Would occasionally do this and no other problems. Months passed and slowly the car would shudder when at high speeds when I wanted to accelerate. Thought it may be the spark plugs, replaced those but no change.

Today when coming home from work the car still does the shudder when at high speeds but now it has a very rough idle. When accelerating from idle, it is very jumpy and has low power. It is getting worse and I am not quite sure what to do about it. What makes it worse is that the engine light never comes on so I am in the dark on how to troubleshoot. It came on once and my reader shot back that the code was invalid.

What is the cheapest way to go about this for now? If it's something serious, I simply cannot afford it right now and will have to get a rental.

Any help is appreciated!!
 
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  #2  
Old 08-14-15, 04:58 PM
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Is the check engine light on? Have you looked to see if it's throwing any codes? Have you ever changed the timing belt?
 
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Old 08-14-15, 05:22 PM
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No codes. Lights came on before but the code reader said the codes were invalid. As soon as I clear the light, the car goes back into normal driving.

In other words..

Driving...car jumps and dramatically loses power. It's driveable but barely. The engine code light is blinking. I grab the code reader and hook it up...read 1 fault code but does not give a code. I clear the code and the car goes back to normal.

As far as the timing belt, no. How hard is that to change?

Thanks for your help
 
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Old 08-14-15, 06:05 PM
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I've never done a timing belt on a Saab but if you have never done a timing belt or chain before, I would suggest that you look for someone to help you. Otherwise, it could become a real saab story. At 180,000 miles, it's amazing that it has lasted so long.

I don't see how the codes are invalid if the car runs well when they are cleared. Make a note of the codes, see what sensor is involved & replace it.
 
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Old 08-15-15, 08:39 AM
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Pulpo -

Some more info for troubleshooting...

I went and bought some seafoam and added half to the gas and oil. I also added some more 0W-40 oil and cleaned the air filter. The car immediately felt better but was not 100%. I took it to the highway and gunned it 100%... This and only this...is the only way for me to get the engine light to come on and blink. It blinks while I'm at high speeds and goes out when I stop. I grab my reader and hook it up while it blinks and it scans and spits back a pending fault. I hit enter on the scanner and it says 1/1 N/A. I drive for several miles and gun the car to get the code to come back and still the same thing. Blinking light, pending fault but it gives N/A. It never ever gives a proper engine code. Does this point to a faulty sensor? The car will sometimes go into this extreme loss of power mode and if I clear the computer it bounces back to a normal car. I checked the timing belt and it looks pretty good. I believe this may have been replaced right before I purchase the car 2 years ago. Any other ideas?

THANKS for your help!
 
  #6  
Old 08-15-15, 08:53 AM
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I had to replace a lifter in my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee recently and rather than going explicitly by the book and unhook all the wiring, I cheated and got the valve cover off and made the repairs. Little did I know I had stressed the MAP sensor 5 volt supply line. Same conditions that you are stating. I know mine was the wire, because I finally tore into it yesterday, and found I had actually broke the hot lead and it was holding on by actual pressure in the plug. Fixed and it runs flawlessly. SO, it could be your MAP sensor itself (rather than the wiring). It will throw a "DEALER" code, rather than a P0xxx code as normal when the MAP sensor goes south.
 
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Old 08-15-15, 12:16 PM
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Thanks Chandler. I will check that sensor
 
  #8  
Old 08-15-15, 01:03 PM
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not to familiar with saab but do you have a scanner or just a code reader perhaps the code reader isn't compatible with your vehicle but from your original description seems the car may be misfiring witch often causes the check engine light to flash rather than just stay on solid some scanners should show misfire data for each cylinder if you can see that data maybe it will help to see if a cylinder is misfiring.
could be something simple like a bad plug or coil maybe.
 
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Old 08-15-15, 03:44 PM
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I searched google. Two threads say it's an engine misfire.
Blinking check engine light? - The Saab Link Forums

flashing check engine - The Saab Link Forums
 
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Old 08-17-15, 05:29 AM
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Thanks a ton guys. My mechanic is on vacation this week so I have a rental. I am going to wait for him to return and hopefully get an accurate reading from him.
 
  #11  
Old 08-17-15, 05:44 AM
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I read over those forum posts that Pulpo posted and some more and a lot of people keep on mentioning replacing the DI. Do I understand it correctly for that to be the Direct Ignition? I checked out a YouTube video and my 2007 doesn't have this part from what I see. Do the newer SAABs have it and it looks drastically different? Did ignition coil wires replace this part?

Thanks
 
  #12  
Old 08-17-15, 08:23 AM
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Some more info to add... I went out and looked at the hoses for leaks and came across something. Down from my oil filter in the front right hand corner of the car is this....

Imgur

**3 IMAGES IN THE LINK**

If you look closely, they rubber tubing is cracked and loose from the connection. And you can obviously see that it's covered in oil.

Does anyone know what this is and if it could be causing the issues that I am having?

Thanks
 
  #13  
Old 08-17-15, 01:52 PM
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I've never seen a oil leak cause an engine misfire unless oil leaked on the spark plug wires or coil. After you saw the leak, did you check the oil?
 
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