Replacing brake pad question

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  #1  
Old 10-31-15, 08:03 AM
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Replacing brake pad question

Hi,
I have toyota camry 2003. This is first time inspired to change rotor and brakepads myself. I purchased powerstop z23 brakepads and rotors.
I saw lot of videos and everything checked the manual. But some instructions i read on youtube and other says you need to replace old anti-squeak shim from old to new but instruction on manual does not say that.
Also existing brakepads has two shim do i need to change both?
Thanks,
S2K
 
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  #2  
Old 10-31-15, 09:04 AM
ukrbyk's Avatar
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Inspired? Good inspiration.

Doing pads on Camry is easy. You jack a side, remove wheel, undo bottom caliper pin bolt, rotate caliper up to clear pads, replace pads. Squeeze pads with C-clamp, reinstall caliper back, done.

Now, this is what you must do:
1. for 03 year, remove both caliper pins; suspend caliper with a coat hanger to strut spring. Clean and lubricate both caliper pins and pin channels inside.
2. clean and lubricate pads metal brass shims, where brake pads sit on bracket ends. If your pads came with new ones, replace old ones and lubricate
3. Caliper pins normally have back up nut head on them, so you need 2 tools, one for the bracket bolt, usually 12 or 14mm and one for backup pin nut. I simply use channel lock to hold pin in place. Be advised that bracket bolts have fine thread and are very easy to cross thread. Be VERY careful reinstalling them and apply no force. They either go in easy, or you will bust them
4. If pads catch on worn rotor edge and caliper will not slide off, mount C-clamp anvil behind the caliper and C-clamp screw end through the opening in caliper "claws" onto the outer brake pad. Squeeze pads in, remove caliper.
5. If rotor does not want to pop off, as they do rust to hub, check for 2 Phillips screws that may hold it in place. They are very soft and strip easy. If you were not able to unscrew them, simply drill the heads off. They are useless anyway, do not reinstall them. Little stubs you'll have left take out with visegrips or channel locks. If rotor still does not come off, hit it several times, in various areas, between the studs. Hit it, don't peck it! It'll come off. Clean rust and apply coat of antisieze onto the hub mating surface.
6. I'd replace all pads shims. I lubricate the pad, install shim, and lubricate the shim. On caliper side. On caliper outer side, I lubricate only where caliper "claws" touch pads.
7. To squeeze caliper use old pad, set against the caliper piston and C-Clamp. You may have some brake fluid overflow from master canister, so set some cardboard underneath.
8. You reinstalled everything. Before taking off, press brake pedal few times to restore pads to rotor contact.
9. the very moment you installed new pads and rotors you must do bedding procedure. MUST. So plan your brake job wisely, as it's not easy do in say city. Google new rotor bedding procedure, plenty of info.
Ask questions if you have any left. As I said - you MUST do bedding for new rotors/pads. Thank me later.
 
  #3  
Old 10-31-15, 07:25 PM
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Thanks very much ukrbyk for detailed steps.
I changed rear passenger according to instructions. But rear driver side one of the cylinder slide pin just do not turn. I tried everything using WD40, breaker bar but everything slips no matter what. I guess the previous job has not been done well.
Also same rear driver side rotor is not coming out. I hammered it but still is not coming out. Don't know what is stuck there. Any ideas where to check.
 
  #4  
Old 10-31-15, 09:11 PM
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As I said, caliper bolt is screwed into pin and pin has back up nut or 2 slits that must be locked in place before the outer bolt is undone. It's a two tool job.
If caliper will not swing off the pads, it's catching on pads and pads catch on rotor. You saw where I said that pads sometimes must be compressed before caliper can be removed? That's the only reason I can think of and I had this happen before. Squeeze pads.
 
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