95 Camry Wagon, 4 Cyl, 2 L, Rear Suspension Lateral Arm Replacement

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  #1  
Old 04-02-16, 05:25 PM
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95 Camry Wagon, 4 Cyl, 2 L, Rear Suspension Lateral Arm Replacement

I'm replacing the 2 rear forward as well as 2 rear backward lateral arms. Based on pictures I've seen, there are a total of 4 bolts involved in this repair. Correct me if I'm wrong, but through both the right & left knuckle are long bolts, which are seized within the knuckle. I've been able to remove both nuts from the knuckles-end, but the bolts won't budge from the knuckle. Does anyone recommend heating the knuckles to free the bolts?
Also, I'm having difficulty with the centrally located bolts, which run through the crossmember. The nuts won't budge on these bolts. I've tried Kroil as well as other penetrants. Does anyone recommend heat in this situation as well? Are these bolts long as well; similar to the knuckle-ended bolts?

Thanks,

Bob Drazga
 
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Old 04-03-16, 05:08 PM
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On the subject of heat

I'm having difficulty with the crossmember bolts/nuts on a 95 Camry Wagon, the ones I've had to heat. The bolts were removed from the knuckle without issue, but this is not the case with the crossmember ones. I did end up getting a propane torch & have heated the nuts about 60 seconds at a time. I've done this 5 separate times, but still no luck. I've heated the nuts to such a degree, each of the 5 times, that the bushings begin smoking slightly. Should I be heating the nut longer than I am?

About 2 years ago, before I started doing all the Camry repairs myself, I had the crossmember replaced due to rust. Is there any chance, the shop would have welded these nuts in place? If so, what does anyone recommend?
 
  #3  
Old 04-04-16, 10:29 AM
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No. It's old rubber. It bonds to metal eventually. You have rubber bushings with metal sleeve, bolt goes through. It's self welded with old rubber.
If your new arms came with new bolts then sure, burn suckers out. If not, you can match bolts at say ACE Hardware. Tell them to point you towards automotive grade fasteners.
Or, you can get a VERY well fitting 12 point socket and use cheat bar to rip them off. Lots of penetrating oil of course. 2 ft long 1 inch pipe from Home Depot does miracles.
Key is good socket. Or, you will strip the heads and THEN you will have to cut bolts and hammer what's left out.
 
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Old 04-05-16, 10:41 AM
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Other forms of heat

What's the consensus on induction heaters to free seized bolts? Has anyone had success using an induction heater? Otherwise, in the event I have to "cut through the bolts", something I've never done, what's the most efficient method?
 
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