1993 S-10 Blazer engine question

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  #1  
Old 04-16-16, 09:52 AM
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1993 S-10 Blazer engine question

Does a 1993 s 10 blazer 4.3L vortec VIN W have a camshaft or crankshaft sensor, if so where is it? I have replaced all the starting components ALL fixed shorts in wires. New computer fuel pump iac fuel regulator the list goes on but u get my frustration. After all of this it still spits & sputters backfires loss of power and speed. It will even leave me stranded? I dont know what else to do. Any and all info appreciated. Thx
 
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Old 04-16-16, 10:14 AM
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Is the check engine light on? If so, what OBD-II codes are stored?
 
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Old 04-16-16, 10:26 AM
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Sometimes but usually no. When it is on i cant make it to a place to read them, or when i get there after restarting the light is off.
 
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Old 04-16-16, 10:29 AM
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In the past 2 yrs everything besides the motor have been replaced. I am not exaggerating
 
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Old 04-16-16, 11:46 AM
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Blindly replacing parts in the hopes that you are "fixing something" is a poor repair strategy that only wastes money. If the parts were clearly bad, that's another story. You would be better off spending $75 -or so- at Harbor Freight for an OBD-II scanner to help diagnose any stores codes... whether temporary or permanent.

Sounds to me like what you are describing is a bad coil pack, which can sometimes be intermittant, coming and going as it pleases. They often act worse in damp or rainy weather.
 
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Old 04-16-16, 01:26 PM
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I believe a 1993 4.3 is OBD1
 
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Old 04-16-16, 01:51 PM
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Mmm, good point. You would probably want an Actron scanner that reads both OBD-I and II. Will cost you more than I said. Available at most parts stores.
 
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Old 04-16-16, 02:06 PM
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it does not have a cam or crank sensor but just uses a standard distributer with pickup and module for ignition would probably inspect the cap, rotor, wires for a starting point and try to move the distributer shaft side to side while you have the cap off to check for excessive play.
might also pull and inspect 1 spark plug on each side of the engine if only one plug is fuel fouled and black in color would suspect a fuel leak at injector or regulator or fuel supply lines.
you can check codes on obd1 gm vehicles by just using a jumper on the a and b terminals of the diagnostic connector and counting check engine light flashes you can google it for more info.
a shop could probably diagnose it if the vehicle is running bad most of the time and they can see it act up if its intermittent it may be harder to diagnose the problem but may consider this over just replacing parts
 

Last edited by alan73; 04-16-16 at 02:21 PM.
  #9  
Old 04-16-16, 04:49 PM
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As anyone else said - stop tossing money at guess repairs. Car is actually not worth it.

My first and pretty good guess is, based off this:

spits & sputters backfires loss of power and speed.

that timing is off. Considering that it has dizzy likely going down into engine and gear connected to camshaft, I'd start with removing dizzy and checking that gear. It may be broken or have chipped tooth or simply being loose. That's under circumstance that dizzy itself is good, but backfiring normally points towards timing. You can rent timing tester and check timing. If that is all ok, then I'd presume that either timing chain is stretched and loose - yes, they do go loose, or tensioner is bad or sprocket are damaged or loose.
Start with timing check.
Also you can read codes on OBDI engines. No need for fancy scanners.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UIKdbTFvyUU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8nZpQyoRh4
 
  #10  
Old 04-16-16, 04:50 PM
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My first thought when reading this thread was as others mentioned. Coil or distributor related. I once had an 88 Ford truck & I had the same problem from the day I drove it off the lot as a new truck.
Come to find out, it was a common problem with that vehicle. There was a defect in the way they designed the ground wire inside the distributor & every so often, for no reason, it'd just die. Sometimes just spit & sputter. I kept it for 3 years & the local dealer nor anyone in Ford motor company could figure out what the problem was. In 91, I finally fixed it myself. I traded it in on a Chevy Trail Blazer & never had the problem again.... issue resolved. About 10 years later, my brother was reading a Popular Mechanics magazine & there was a story in there on that vehicle & the fix.

Back in the mid 70's, I had an old 60 Ford truck. A common problem with it was the coil would get hot (for some reason) & quit. Let it sit for a while & it'd go again.

I'd certainly look at anything related to a coil or distributor.
 
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