Ground contact corrosion protection

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Old 07-05-16, 12:59 PM
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Ground contact corrosion protection

I recently installed a new audio system in my 2011 Acura TL and am in the process of beefing up the ground connection from the battery negative terminal to the chassis. There is paint beneath the factory ground connector, which I plan on removing. However, I'm concerned the bare metal will eventually rust. What is the best method to protect the bare metal? Should I make my connections first then coat them with dielectric grease? Spray paint? RTV? Liquid electrical tape? Should I coat the connectors and sheet metal with conductive grease first, then secure them?
 
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Old 07-05-16, 02:00 PM
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I suggest you remove the paint under the terminal, clean the surface very well to remove any oil or grease or grime, and then apply cold galvanizing compound to the area. This will provide a durable, electrically conductive area that actively protects against rust. It is not recommended that you apply grease on top of cold galvanizing. You should use galvanized or stainless steel hardware to attach the ground terminal.
 
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Old 07-05-16, 02:06 PM
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Dielectric grease>washer>grease>terminal>grease>washer>nut>battery sealant spray or electric parts sealant spray. i like battery one as it's in pirty purple color.
Washers are simply to ensure large contact surface.
Of course you strip paint. But I'd have used solvent, not sand paper, as body will rust faster when roughened.
 
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Old 07-05-16, 04:18 PM
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Are you doing the ground connection INSIDE the cabin or OUTSIDE (under hood)?

I would suggest using star lock washers in your install.
 
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Old 07-05-16, 04:36 PM
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The connection is inside the engine bay, at the same point as the factory battery grounding point. I'm piggybacking on top of it, so there are two 4 AWG ground wires going from the negative battery to the sheet metal.
 
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Old 07-06-16, 06:33 AM
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Couldn't I just slather some DeoxIT or Noalox on the sheet metal to cover any exposed metal then secure my grounds?
 
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Old 07-06-16, 08:39 AM
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I don't believe either of those will prevent rusting of bare steel long term. Noalox is for use with aluminum connections.

Dielectric grease is an insulator so it won't do anything to help maintain a good contact. It's really intended to lubricate moving parts that are electrically live, like connectors and spark plug boots. It will slow down corrosion (as would any grease) by keeping water away from the bare metal, but it would not be as effective over the long term as cold galvanizing which bonds a layer of zinc to the steel.

But if you're looking for a simpler solution, just bolt it all together with start washers as suggested earlier, and slather on some grease to keep water away for a while.
 
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