98 Ford Escort 2.0L battery draw. Where is the ECM located ?

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  #1  
Old 07-25-16, 08:33 AM
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98 Ford Escort 2.0L battery draw. Where is the ECM located ?

2 Part Question....

1) Has a 12volt battery draw and can't find the source

-Placed test light between Neg-batt post and Neg-cable. Test light very bright with engine and all accessories OFF.

-Placed Volt meter between Neg-batt post and Neg cable. Meter reads 12.5V with engine and all accessories OFF.
-Battery drains over 24 hours
-Disconnected every fuse inside and out and could not determine source of draw.
-Every component functions, battery charges normally.
-Car starts and runs well

2) Where is the ECM located ???

-Couldn't find anything about ECM locationl on You-Tube
 
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  #2  
Old 07-25-16, 08:41 AM
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You realty need a amp meter to tell draw. All cars that have any computer's in will have a draw. Radio, alarm system etc. all cause draw. Have you had battery tested on a load tester. I have had many false readings from electronic testers.
 
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Old 07-25-16, 09:46 AM
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It would not be the ECM as it would be dead when all the fuses are pulled.

There are two items that aren't fused..... the alternator and the starter. In your case I would choose the alternator.

Try your test with the large wire disconnected from the alternator.
 
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Old 07-25-16, 10:10 AM
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I am aware that the ECM pulls a small amount of current but shouldn't kill the batt within 24 hrs.

Pulled all connections from the alternator- still had 12.5 volt draw.

Checked amps on DMM in the 10ADC range I'm getting a .177 reading.

Btw....I pulled each fuse one at time trying to isolate the draw.

So do you know where the ECM is located ???
 
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Old 07-25-16, 10:12 AM
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The ECM should be under the cubby in the center console.
 
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Old 07-25-16, 10:33 AM
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Thanks Pete !

Keep you posted on my progress...
 
  #7  
Old 07-25-16, 11:40 AM
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How old is the car battery ??
 
  #8  
Old 07-25-16, 11:42 AM
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Battery is only 9o days old
 
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Old 07-25-16, 11:52 AM
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Volt reading means nothing there will always be a reading unless every component is disconnected. 25 years ago you could go by volt reading.
 
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Old 07-25-16, 12:11 PM
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Checked amps on DMM in the 10ADC range I'm getting a .177 reading
That is correctly stated. There is a .177A or 177mah drain.

That really shouldn't be enough to kill a battery over night. Although there should be 0a of current draw with nothing connected.

The ECM is protected by fuses as well as the BCM's. If all fuses are out... they are out of the picture.
 
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Old 07-25-16, 07:57 PM
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Would a bad alternator rectifier diode cause your fault ?
 
  #12  
Old 07-26-16, 05:07 AM
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Disconnect battery and charge fully with a good charger.
Check voltage after charge equalizes which could take a couple of hours then check voltage again after 24 hrs.

Battery could be self-discharging regardless of being 90 days old.
 
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Old 07-26-16, 05:39 AM
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Thanks GregH
I have had the battery disconnected since 7/23 and it's still holding at 12.5V

It actually fluctuates between a day to 3 days to drain.....weird.
 
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Old 07-26-16, 06:29 AM
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" Battery is only 9o days old"

Why was the battery replaced 90 days ago?
 
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Old 07-26-16, 07:09 AM
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After disconnecting the ECM I still have a 12volt draw but when I put my DMM between the neg batt post and the neg cable the radiator cooling fan begins run....hmmmph ! This while the ECM is unplugged and NO keys in ignition.
 
  #16  
Old 07-26-16, 07:36 AM
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Still had a12volt draw even after disconnecting somekind of large module / fan relay located below the airbox that had to be unscrewed to remove the connector.

Still had a 12 volt draw after disconnecting the ECM.

Ok so I finally stopped the 12volt draw but only by disconnecting the MAIN 100A fuse in the little fuse box mounted above the air box on the driverside fender apron (also had 2, 10mm screws holding it in).

This means what....??? Does this eliminate anything ???
 

Last edited by Mackey; 07-26-16 at 09:37 AM.
  #17  
Old 07-27-16, 03:20 AM
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probably the alternator like others mentioned disconnect all wires to the alternator and see if the draw is still there.
 
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Old 07-27-16, 05:58 AM
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alan73, I disconnected the alternator connections already and still had the 12v draw
 
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Old 07-27-16, 06:46 AM
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the 100 amp fuse typically would go to the charging system nothing else on the vehicle would require such a high amp fuse, use your amp meter again and check amp draw with alternator hooked up and with it disconnected. assuming the fuse is still good in your amp meter and works, the cooling fan coming on would probably pull to many amps for most meters rated at 10 amps and your meter may need a new fuse now.
 
  #20  
Old 07-31-16, 12:44 PM
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The 100 AMP fuse is the "overall" fuse.
I pulled each large fuse beyond the 100 AMP fuse and discovered when I pulled one of the 30AMP fuses that I archived the same same result as with the 100AMP fuse. The 30AMP fuses protects smaller 15 AMP circuits. I pulled each 15AMP fuse inside the car until I pulled the Horn fuse then the AMPS went to a negligible reading.
For the past two days in a row the battery is holding at 12.5volts.
Now I have to troubleshoot the horn circuit to determine where the failure is.
Btw....horn functions normally !
 

Last edited by Mackey; 07-31-16 at 03:40 PM.
  #21  
Old 07-31-16, 01:38 PM
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Look for a horn relay..........................
 
  #22  
Old 08-01-16, 08:22 AM
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Smile You might be chasing your tail.

To test for self draining you would need to charge battery while not connected to vehicle, let sit for a couple of days then use a load tester to test the available current for starting.

A way of doing this without a load tester is to disconnect vehicle from battery then charge with a charger you know to work properly.
After sitting unconnected for a couple of days reconnect to vehicle then turn on lights [and/or engage starter] as a load then check voltage.

It is possible yo have a some kind of mystery load in your vehicle draining your battery but I think the problem may be simpler than that.
 

Last edited by GregH; 08-01-16 at 08:49 AM.
  #23  
Old 08-02-16, 06:57 PM
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Full disclosure.... A few years ago had to install an auxiliary circuit due to the horn blowing on its own in the middle of the night. A new horn pad / airbag was just way too expensive so I added this horn circuit with a button on the dash pad and it worked flawlessly for 3 years until 8 weeks ago.
I removed the circuit and found nothing wrong with it after a close inspection then re-attached it with no current draw. So something in the wiring or button is not right.
I am looking on eBay for a used horn pad.
 
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