2007 Subaru Outback, bogging, no power


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Old 09-18-16, 08:02 PM
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Question 2007 Subaru Outback, bogging, no power

I am working on a 2007 Outback, 2.5 Auto, 213K. It belongs to my niece (owned since new). She took it in for routine timing belt replacement at the local Subaru dealer. Drove it home and it had no power. Only ran "good" at part throttle. Took it back and Dealer says the CAT is plugged up. (All the sudden?) Now her cheap husband refused to replace the O2 sensors (which had been throwing codes for the last 70K). Now she asks for my help. I replaced the cat with a Walker replacement. Same issue. Step on the thottle, falls on its face. Only codes are for O2 sensors... but the cruise light is blinking (any ideas on this?). I'm thinking the dealer put the timing belt on one tooth off.
Your thoughts?
 
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Old 09-19-16, 06:45 PM
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sounds like its very possible that they messed up. do you know the actual code numbers?
 
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Old 09-19-16, 07:39 PM
J
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Changed both the fuel filters?
Talking out my butt here but I've screwed several times by the Subaru dealers years ago and leaned my lesson.
Now keep in mind this was long ago.
Engine running rough so I changed the plugs, air filter, fuel filter near the carb. still running rough.
I bring it to the dealer and they put it on the diagnostic checker and they tell me the engine is shot and I need to rebuild the whole engine at a cost of $3000.00.
As I'm walking out the mechanic ask me what fuel filter did you change?
Turns out there was two filters, one was in the rear fender well.
I changed it, car ran like new for 5 more years.
I have two more story's about Subaru dealership rip off's if you want to hear them.
 
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Old 09-21-16, 05:56 PM
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Codes were 140, 141 and I think 171 lean. Checked timing marks. Not close. Surprised car ran. Plugs were shot. So lean, nearly no electrodes left
 
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Old 09-22-16, 08:35 AM
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When you have the CEL the cruise will blink and I believe won't work until the code is cleared.

If your timing marks are off, that says it all.

On a Subie you may have to replace the entire upstream exhaust system to clear the O2 codes. The front sensor is pretty easy to replace, but the second one after the cats is the hard one, but brings on performance issues, like stalling, poor acceleration, etc.
 
 

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