Do I need shocks / struts?
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Do I need shocks / struts?
At 110,000 I took my 2007 Nissan Rogue to the dealer for a (non-suspension) recall issue and they let me know I needed shocks and/or struts. (I have struts in the front and shocks in the back.) I brought it back last week at 115,000 for another (non-suspension) issue and was told again about replacing the shocks and/or struts.
I'm trying to figure out what if anything I need although I don't expect to do the work myself. On the one hand I notice nothing in the ride or handling to indicate a problem and my visual inspection finds no leaking or damage. On the other hand, I now have 115,000 miles and 9+ years on the original suspension so I figure I may be bouncing down the road and not knowing it.
Are there any driving or other tests I can do to figure out what's needed? Also, what can I do inspection wise beyond looking for leakage or broken parts?
I'm trying to figure out what if anything I need although I don't expect to do the work myself. On the one hand I notice nothing in the ride or handling to indicate a problem and my visual inspection finds no leaking or damage. On the other hand, I now have 115,000 miles and 9+ years on the original suspension so I figure I may be bouncing down the road and not knowing it.
Are there any driving or other tests I can do to figure out what's needed? Also, what can I do inspection wise beyond looking for leakage or broken parts?
#2
Member
If you don't notice bouncing, hear any rattles or clanks on bumps, have any handling oddities or notice any tire wear, then chances are they are still working OK. But at 115k they are most likely close to end of life. Suspension part failures can be dangerous, so it is prudent to replace them before outright failure. I'd be looking at the ball joints, rod ends, and bushings too.
Also, drive over a bumpy surface while someone stands to the side and listens for clunks and clanks. Often they are much more noticeable from the outside.
Also, drive over a bumpy surface while someone stands to the side and listens for clunks and clanks. Often they are much more noticeable from the outside.
#3
Price them anyplace but dealer and than get dealer price. I would go after market always for this. Over 100k they usually are needed but mine have 140k on them and still good.
#4
I have one (1) Mechanic that I use for performing Alignments . . . . that's all he does; and I trust him to tell me when something needs to be replaced. He has no incentive to tell me I need something changed out when I don't need it.
I don't get a bill if the car's alignment is still within specifications, or if something needs replacement before the re-alignment can be performed.
That Guy is one of the few Mechanics that I tip, or I'll insist on paying for his opinion and/or time, when he has nothing he want's to bill me for.
How good is that ?
I replace shocks and struts by the axle (or in pairs); when one is leaking, they both go.
I don't get a bill if the car's alignment is still within specifications, or if something needs replacement before the re-alignment can be performed.
That Guy is one of the few Mechanics that I tip, or I'll insist on paying for his opinion and/or time, when he has nothing he want's to bill me for.
How good is that ?
I replace shocks and struts by the axle (or in pairs); when one is leaking, they both go.
Last edited by Vermont; 03-06-17 at 12:13 PM.
#5
We sold wife's RX300 with 154 000 miles on it and original struts still working great.
DON'T FIX IT IF IT AIN'T BROK.
Your butt comfort meter will tell you when to. Or, you will start having scalloping on tires. Or, feathered edge. Until then......
DON'T FIX IT IF IT AIN'T BROK.
Your butt comfort meter will tell you when to. Or, you will start having scalloping on tires. Or, feathered edge. Until then......
#6
Forum Topic Moderator
I think my wife's 2003 merc had 197k on it when we got rid of it. Still had the factory struts although they did need replacing. They weren't affecting handling or ride but I had noticed that the front was a tad lower than it used to be and they would sometimes make a noise over bumps. And this was something that has only recently presented itself. At 110k and 10 yrs the odds are your struts still have a good bit of life left.
#8
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A shock that is not leaking should be good for about 150,000 miles, if it has been driven on regular roads and without extreme loads, trailers, etc. The damping performance will have deteriorated, but would not be unsafe. However, often the rubber bushings, and strut tops can wear before the shocks/struts do. So might be good to ask your mechanic for more details why they recommend replacement, the labour to do a top mount would be the same as putting in a new strut/spring unit so they may be trying to look after you, it would be a common recommendation to replace shocks/struts at your mileage.
#9
I second pugsl's remarks on getting it done (if needed) at a good independent garage with aftermarket units. You'll likely save a consider chunk of money and never know the difference in performance of the parts.
#10
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks to everyone who responded - much appreciated. It's interesting to see how many vehicles have high mileage and original suspension, given the premise shocks and struts need replacing much sooner.
I've arranged to have the suspension checked in a few weeks and will let you know what happens.
I've arranged to have the suspension checked in a few weeks and will let you know what happens.