Engine performance worsens as temperature increases
#1
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Thread Starter
Engine performance worsens as temperature increases
The car in question is a 95 Camry Wagon. For a long time now, a smooth curb idle has been an issue. The other day, I drove to work without issue.
As I drove home, 12 hours later, starting the car initially was okay, but then as I continued to drive, the engine began to bog/lag, unable to accelerate beyond 45 MPH. Continuing to drive, only worsened the problem. As I arrived home, the engine was struggling to sustain a curb idle. As I began backing up the car, the engine died. Attempts to restart the engine failed. I let the car sit for 2 hours & tried again; this time it started, but with a substantially rougher curb idle. I turned off the engine & let the car sit overnight (approximately 10 hours).
When I attempted to start the engine, it ran with a smoother idle, but worsened, the longer the car warmed up at curb idle. Attempts to drive the car, didn't allow acceleration past 45 MPH & produced what sounded like a rush of air, only when attempting acceleration. At curb idle, the rush of air sound was more audible when pumping the gas pedal with the hood closed than with it open.
Any insight to this, what-seems-to-be, temperature related issue?
As I drove home, 12 hours later, starting the car initially was okay, but then as I continued to drive, the engine began to bog/lag, unable to accelerate beyond 45 MPH. Continuing to drive, only worsened the problem. As I arrived home, the engine was struggling to sustain a curb idle. As I began backing up the car, the engine died. Attempts to restart the engine failed. I let the car sit for 2 hours & tried again; this time it started, but with a substantially rougher curb idle. I turned off the engine & let the car sit overnight (approximately 10 hours).
When I attempted to start the engine, it ran with a smoother idle, but worsened, the longer the car warmed up at curb idle. Attempts to drive the car, didn't allow acceleration past 45 MPH & produced what sounded like a rush of air, only when attempting acceleration. At curb idle, the rush of air sound was more audible when pumping the gas pedal with the hood closed than with it open.
Any insight to this, what-seems-to-be, temperature related issue?
#2
is the check engine light on?
would probably check the air intake hose for cracks for a starting point if it has an airflow sensor and you get a hole or crack in the intake hose it will run bad and could be part of the noise your hearing.
otherwise typical problems that cause bogging and wont accelerate over 45 mph is usually either caused by losing fuel pressure/bad fuel pump or exhaust restriction/plugged convertor.
would probably check the air intake hose for cracks for a starting point if it has an airflow sensor and you get a hole or crack in the intake hose it will run bad and could be part of the noise your hearing.
otherwise typical problems that cause bogging and wont accelerate over 45 mph is usually either caused by losing fuel pressure/bad fuel pump or exhaust restriction/plugged convertor.
#3
First I would get car scanned, Usually autozone will read them for free. After you get codes you will have a starting point.
#4
Unfortunately, if the scan comes up clear, you will likely need professional help. The laundry list of possible fixes would be pretty long and trying them one at a time could get expensive.
The temperature/performance relationship I'm guessing is because when cold the computer will be calling for more fuel (rich).
How is the general upkeep of vehicle? Kept up on routine maintenance items?
The temperature/performance relationship I'm guessing is because when cold the computer will be calling for more fuel (rich).
How is the general upkeep of vehicle? Kept up on routine maintenance items?
#5
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Thread Starter
For as long as I've had this car, the check engine light has never come on, although when starting the car, the check engine light does a self-diagnostic & illuminates & then turns off. By this, I assume it's functional, but just hasn't illuminated to point out a problem. Thanks for your advice; at least it gives me a starting point.
#6
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The upkeep of the vehicle is regular. After all, it's a 95 & still running, very well as a matter of fact, until this very recent occurrence. The sudden onset leads me to believe that the problem is perhaps sensor-related or tied into some electrical sensing device.
Is it possible for a code to be thrown, but the check engine function not record it, regardless of the self-diagnostic, check engine light test performed when starting the car?
Is it possible for a code to be thrown, but the check engine function not record it, regardless of the self-diagnostic, check engine light test performed when starting the car?
#7
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Thread Starter
Autozone diagnoses check engine lights using the ODB-2 standard. The 95 Camry falls into the ODB-1 standard range. Short of taking the vehicle for professional diagnostics, are there any other options? I've seen an Internet video using a paper clip jumper & then reading check engine light blinks as a type Morse Code to determine a problem, if any, but I'd rather opt for a more accurate approach.
#8
some 95 models was obd2 even though it wasn't required till 96 you would need to look for an obd2 connector under the dash.
no check engine light there is a good chance it wont have any codes but its possible a code could be stored, but really your probably going to need to see a shop where they could check fuel pressure, the exhaust and possibly check codes also even though it may not tell them anything.
checking the air intake hose for cracks is about the only thing that would be easy to check on it.
no check engine light there is a good chance it wont have any codes but its possible a code could be stored, but really your probably going to need to see a shop where they could check fuel pressure, the exhaust and possibly check codes also even though it may not tell them anything.
checking the air intake hose for cracks is about the only thing that would be easy to check on it.
#10
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Thread Starter
Mine is also a Wagon. Behind my pull-down coin box is a fuse box & behind the fuse box is a blue-colored relay. Does your Wagon have a port labeled "Diagnostics" under the hood behind the strut tower, passenger side?
#11
Member
Thread Starter
Under the hood, behind the strut tower, passenger side, is a port labeled "Diagnostics". Knowing that, would a car have both OBD1 as well as OBD2 ports?
#12
I would be checking temperature sensors that feed information to computer.
You are describing a computer in "limp Home" mode because of sensor failure. The computer relies on sensors and especially temperature one to let computer take over control of engine functions. If the temp sensor doesn't do that then the computer goes into "limp home" mode and allows car to be driven, but no performance.
The computer operates in "open loop" until engine warms. It then switches to "closed loop" where all the sensors contribute their data to computer and it adjusts parameters for best performance.
Look for a dealer or an Independent that displays ASE Certified signage. They have demonstrated their expertise at auto repairs.
RR
You are describing a computer in "limp Home" mode because of sensor failure. The computer relies on sensors and especially temperature one to let computer take over control of engine functions. If the temp sensor doesn't do that then the computer goes into "limp home" mode and allows car to be driven, but no performance.
The computer operates in "open loop" until engine warms. It then switches to "closed loop" where all the sensors contribute their data to computer and it adjusts parameters for best performance.
Look for a dealer or an Independent that displays ASE Certified signage. They have demonstrated their expertise at auto repairs.
RR
#13
should be able to check codes with a simple jumper wire on pre obd2 models you can search you tube for more information on how to do it, suspect you will likely still have to see a shop for diagnosis.