How to prevent heavy frost build up in interior

Reply

  #1  
Old 01-14-18, 05:49 PM
Norm201's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 6,138
How to prevent heavy frost build up in interior

Any suggestions on how to prevent or minimize a heavy frost build up on the interior windshield of the car. I must park outside and the defrost and heat mode on this car is very poor. Has anybody applied any type of window cleaner or preparation that will reduce the affect? Perhaps something like RainEx?

For the record this is a 2017 Chevy Travesty. Never owned a car with such poor heat and defrost. Even when fully heated and at full running temp the last bottom right corner of windshield will not clear of fog or frost. One of many things I dislike about this car.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 01-14-18, 05:56 PM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 20,855
Chevy Travesty
ROTFL!!!

Do you have it set on recirculate or fresh air? Only time I have ever had frost on the inside of any car would be when I have brought a lot of snow in on the floor and the heater is blowing on it... while in recirculation mode.
 
  #3  
Old 01-14-18, 08:00 PM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 4,239
Brand new vehicle! Take it back to the dealer!
I've been through hell with brand new Chevys.
It would take me two pages to explain.
Gave up dealing with chevy and bought a Ford F150 in 2003 and never had an issue.
Unless you left a window open there should not be any frost on the inside unless there's a leaking window gasket.
 
  #4  
Old 01-15-18, 04:33 AM
Marq1's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: USA MI
Posts: 2,832
We had a Acadia once here in MI and never experienced icing issues.

As noted lots of snow tracked into the car and not using outside air is causing the issue.
 
  #5  
Old 01-15-18, 04:52 AM
Norm201's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 6,138
As you can see, I hate this car! (So many little things that I can point out).
No I do not use recirculating mode. Yes, lots of snow does get tracked in to the cab.
Joe, How I wish I bought a FORD! (I'd be interested in your 2 pages of complaints, lol) Not only do I not like the car, I had a bad experience with the dealer. I'll never buy another GM car again. To be fair the car does the job it was intended to do, and that was towing. I initially looked at Ford but was put off by the cost. My GMC van was so great that I thought Chevy could come close to it. After seeing your reply, maybe I will complain to the dealer.

Thanks to all. But nobody has any suggestions as to how to alleviate the situation?
 
  #6  
Old 01-15-18, 06:30 AM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New England
Posts: 10,107
I agree with the moisture issue being the source. One vehicle years ago had a recall for a leak behind the dash. That water never made it to any place you could see it but did fog up the inside.

As for not heating up the old standby of blocking off the lower area of the radiator has worked in the past for me. You see that built into the big rigs.

Bud
 
  #7  
Old 01-15-18, 06:35 AM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 20,855
I always open the windows a little if it fogs up inside. Lowers the humidity in the car fast. Use plastic car mats that are molded to keep the carpet dry.
 
  #8  
Old 01-15-18, 09:19 AM
Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: usa
Posts: 23
Turn on the air conditioning. It sounds crazy, but the air conditioner is a dehumidifier. It will clear the windows faster than the defroster/heater.
 
  #9  
Old 01-15-18, 09:32 AM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: U.S.A.
Posts: 1,508
Guess that I'm not 100% sure, but am pretty sure the air conditioning kicks on with the defroster setting. The only difference may be that some of the vent openings are different. Regardless, although I'm not overly fond of the ones I know either, I do agree with getting it back to the dealer. It may or may not work out for you, but they're the ones who should know where to look for a problem, so I would at least give it a shot.
 
  #10  
Old 01-15-18, 02:41 PM
Norm201's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 6,138
Correct you are. A/C is enabled when using the defrost. And yes I just made the appointment as we speak.
 
  #11  
Old 01-15-18, 10:19 PM
Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 886
Well, you could try tossing in a few silica gel packets on the dash overnight, try and soak up that excess humidity.
 
  #12  
Old 01-16-18, 06:11 AM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: U.S.A.
Posts: 1,508
Norm, I hope that they have a satisfactory solution for you, but happened to remember that you mentioned Rain-X, and although I have not used it on the interior, I have used on the outside of my wife's windshield, and think that it would be a worthwhile shot if the dealers doesn't provide resolve. I'm not always good about exterior cleanliness of vehicles, but this stuff does work. I've driven her car in some pretty good downpours without having to use the wipers, travel speed and so on being factors of course, and am convinced that it helps keep bug splatters, etc. from sticking as much, so may give you a bit of a barrier between the windshield and frost.
 
  #13  
Old 01-16-18, 07:31 AM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Northern Minnesota
Posts: 1,512
Only time I've seen ice inside was when a bunch of us eighth graders crammed in our basketball coach's VW Bug so can't help there. Is the ice there when you get in or after you start it?


Correct you are. A/C is enabled when using the defrost.

These new vehicles could be different but my book says:


However, the air conditioning will only function if the outside temperature is about 10C (50F) or above.



EDIT: Yours won't come on below 40
 

Last edited by Baldwin; 01-16-18 at 09:50 AM.
  #14  
Old 01-16-18, 08:22 AM
Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 886
First, have you checked whether the AC drain line is kinked, freezing up or blocked with crud?

Second, checked antifreeze levels, cleared out the engine cowl intake vents, and replaced the cabin air filter (if there is one)?

Third, next warmish day, start the car up, set the selector to output heat via the dash vents.
Get a leaf blower, and blow the defroster vents clear.
(reason for setting vents to dash is to close the defrost louvers and avoid blowing dust down into the heater core)
 
  #15  
Old 01-16-18, 08:40 AM
Beachboy's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Northeast Kansas
Posts: 736
Have the dealer make sure the engine coolant temperature is operating in the correct range. A defective coolant thermostat might be preventing the engine coming up to proper temperature and therefore not able to provide adequate heater output.
 
  #16  
Old 01-16-18, 09:59 AM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Northern Minnesota
Posts: 1,512
A defective coolant thermostat...

Rock Auto only lists 180 thermostats for that vehicle, would it be possible to increase that? My 89 K1500 takes a 195 and I could fry eggs on the dash in the winter, I think that would make a big difference.

HA, I was looking for Chev Travesty, I gotta get out more.
 
  #17  
Old 01-16-18, 02:56 PM
Norm201's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 6,138
Baldwin, Hal, Beachboy,

All good suggestions that I will pass on to the dealer this Thursday.

Thanks
 
  #18  
Old 01-19-18, 03:10 PM
Norm201's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 6,138
Update. Took car in and they did an exhaustive diagnostic and found nothing. I also gave them all the suggestion that many of you suggested and they did address each one. Including using a 195 degree thermostat. System is not designed for higher rated thermostat. The only suggestion they made was for me to get WeatherTech mates to help prevent the ice and water from soaking into carpet. Today was in the high 20's to 30's and the heat vents only put out warm not hot air.

The car is poorly designed. My little Focus heats up in less than 3 minutes oin sub zero temps and the heat comes out HOT! I always need to throttle back.
 
  #19  
Old 01-19-18, 04:58 PM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 20,855
Ha! I thought the molded mats would be a good idea!

If you are that unhappy with it, you could look into your states' "lemon laws" and see if heating/defrosting complaints are covered.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...EaowhvCGj8cmyC
 
  #20  
Old 01-19-18, 05:20 PM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New England
Posts: 10,107
It sounds like the vehicle is never getting enough heat to really dry out the daily moisture. I didn't go back to see if mentioned, but do you make a lot of short trips? As I suggested before try blocking the air flow to the bottom half of the radiator. My old Oldsmobile was a cold beast and doing that made it and myself much happier.

A pain when the dealers don't have an answer. That doesn't mean they aren't aware of the problem just that they don't have a solution.

Bud
 
  #21  
Old 04-04-18, 04:53 AM
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: North Central Indiana
Posts: 912
defrost

t
Im not up on the newer stuff but my old Chev truck (1990) had poor heat till I removed the restrictor fitting in the heater hose where it comes off the intake. It will bake you now.
 
  #22  
Old 04-04-18, 05:58 AM
Norm201's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 6,138
What is a restrictor fitting in the hose and what is the purpose of such a thing? I doubt my car has this. The Chevy forum that I joined has addressed the heat issue but so far no solution. One of the members is suppose to provide and insulation method to cover the exposed heat ducts.
 
  #23  
Old 04-04-18, 06:20 AM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: USA
Posts: 137
I swore off anything GM three decades ago.
 
  #24  
Old 04-04-18, 06:21 AM
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 3,100
Is someone alleging that all Chevy Travesties have poor heat?

The air blasting out of the heating vents is supposed to be hot. If not and you are sitting still and idling after a not too short trip then you have insufficient engine water (coolant) circulating through the heater core (clogged tubing or hose somewhere) or insufficient air flow (dirt clogged air ducts) or too much outside air mixing in (defective air channeling louvers inside the system).
 
  #25  
Old 04-04-18, 07:50 AM
Norm201's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 6,138
I had the system thoroughly checked by the dealer (car was brand new fresh off the lot) and all specs check out. Any day that the outside temp is below 30 degrees the heater will not provide decent heat until the car has been running at least a half hour. The exposed (I'm told) heating duct need to warm up to operating temp as it is trying to fight the outside temps. Very poor design. This seems to be known problem. The car has high marks overall but as people who live in "winter" type climate will attest the heat does not provide comfort driving. I'm told the 2018 model has been re-designed but do not know if the heating problem was addressed.

This car has many small design problems in my estimation and opinion. None of which in of themselves would be a problem, but added together makes me hate the vehicle (hence my name for the car is the Chevy Travesty ). I agree with Mad Scientist, I'll never buy another GM product. I did look at Ford in the beginning but dismissed them due to price, but in retrospect I most likely would've gotten a similar deal on a Ford as the Chevy.

To be fair the car is nice and it does the job I intended it to due, which was towing my trailer and ATV. I almost bought the KIA Sorrento. Glad I did not. I would've had buyer remorse. I'm not at that point with the Travesty .

Poking fun at this car has now become a past time with me and a bit of a joke. I recently discovered that it's possible to lock the keys inside the vehicle. I thought that was eliminated in today's cars. I don't believe I can do that in my Focus. I cannot open the car with the key without tripping the anti theft alarm. It must be unlocked via the remote or the phone app. The defrost and heat mode must be in the on position prior to shutting the car down if you want it to be on when you start the car with the remote. You can't set the defrost or heat after the car is turned off!

The after market heated seats that I negotiated with the dealer install is a joke. They don't work. Had to buy heated seat covers.

Although it has the power I need, it's like a lumbering dinosaur. Slow to start up and once it gets going those heavy duty breaks are a must to stop it.

Once my son takes over the care and maintenance on our cabin in the mountains, I'll dump this car and get a Ford Escape. My daughter bought one and I love it.
 
  #26  
Old 04-04-18, 07:53 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 44,211
I cannot open the car with the key without tripping the anti theft alarm. It must be unlocked via the remote or the phone app
That is the way my jeep is. I found that out in a parking lot shortly after I bought it
 
  #27  
Old 04-04-18, 08:13 AM
Norm201's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 6,138
That is the way my jeep is. I found that out in a parking lot shortly after I bought it
And were you lucky enough to have the phone app to open it?

Another rant...for me the On-Star program is a big waste and I have as yet to use it or need to use it. And they want to charge me for it's use. The Ford equivalent is a free,.
 
  #28  
Old 04-04-18, 08:26 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 44,211
I don't have a smart phone. In my case I just relocked the door and then used the key fob to unlock it which turned off the alarm.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes