Help! While driving suddenly loss of power, stuttering, and had to stop

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  #1  
Old 02-02-18, 10:45 PM
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Help! While driving suddenly loss of power, stuttering, and had to stop

I was driving on a small highway between 100 km/h - 140 km/h (when passing), and about 10 minutes later
I suddenly felt a loss of power and response from my pedal. Each time I pushed down on the gas pedal a little bit,
I got a stuttering of the car (back n forth) with feeling of loss of power. It kept getting worse for the next minute or so
as I was slowing down looking for a small road or even garage to stop at. I was just moving along in a local residential road
at around 5-10 km/h and could feel the power loss getting worse. Car was stuttering back in forth and sound of the exhaust was like spuddering (loud and then quiet, loud and then quiet). It eventually gave me absolutely no more power that I couldn't drive anymore and I just stopped/parked, turned off the car and about 5 minutes later I restarted the car and it seemed to be working again fine, so I kept it at low speed around 60-70 km/h to head back home. There were no problems on that drive home. I didn't want to try and push it to see what would happen again.

Also, no check engine light or any warning light of any kind popped up on the digital screen. I have 3/4 full tank of gas. Engine oil needle was right at 90 (perfect) and I checked the engine oil (when I was parked) and it was perfect also....although there was some kind of yellow fatty looking deposits around the dipstick....I'm assuming that is normal due to the cold weather or the type of motor oil (2013 VW Scirocco R, gasoline).

Does anyone have any ideas what could be the problem? I think I have an idea what it is but I'd like some second opinions.
I'll have to get it checked at the service center soon and hopefully it's nothing too serious.
 
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Old 02-03-18, 12:10 AM
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If you regularly drive a longer distance on the highway, you shouldn't have any "yellow fatty looking deposits" on the oil cap. It sounds like possible water in the oil, though normally it is described as more "milky".

That wouldn't explain the power issue, but it's possible something just got stuck in the wrong position or a connection wasn't quite right and a sensor was giving the wrong signal to the ECM.

Even if there is no code, a shop could scan it and check recent operating parameters.

The ECM is like a PC...occasionally it could have a hiccup and not do what it was supposed to.

If it hadn't cleared itself back up on re-start...I would have said fuel pump or filter. Could still be that, but you'd have to try and near duplicate the driving conditions, speed, and distance.
 
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Old 02-03-18, 12:31 AM
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thanks gunguy.... yes, i only drive 15 km per day so thats why i think the milky gunk is definitely condensation...i should let the engine warm up more before driving in this cold winter.....and try driving it longer distances once in a while to boil it off right?

yes, i set up an appointment so i will go in and get it checked....many ppl have told me it sounds like it could be an ignition coil issue....i should probably have the coil packs replaced. 2013 year, 54,000 km .
 
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Old 02-03-18, 09:16 AM
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2013 VW Scirocco R

Head gasket blew on your engine resulting in power loss and oil contamination with coolant. Yellow frappe is oil coolant mix created by spinning water pump fins.
Daughter in law had VW and as soon as we noticed that frappe around oil cap, we got rid of the car.
You sort of likely had it in initial stages then, WHEN PASSING you gave her gas, increased combustion pressure blew it.
You need to do compression test and leak down test.
If this is not the case (I'll be surprised) your timing went loose. Either belt skipped or chain stretched. They do stretch, you know.
 
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Old 02-03-18, 09:33 AM
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Its a fuel issue but but could be the cause of many things.

I'd start with the fuel filter. Its very possible the reason it started back after being turned off for 5 minutes is the fuel filter is stopped up just enough that it cant keep up on distant driving. Once stopped, the fuel filter was again full & allowed just enough fuel to get through for a while, yet will eventually not let enough fuel through to run the car.
Start with replacing the fuel filter(s) & see how that works out for you. There could be multiple fuel filters. Possibly one under the hood & possibly underneath the car along the fuel line between the tank & engine.
 
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Old 02-03-18, 01:53 PM
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I had a similar issue with my brother's 87 porsche 924s. In addition to electrical and cooling issues, it needed a new fuel pump. I got one off of eBay for 10% of the OEM price.

I test drove it to work, 60 mile round trip. On the way back, it lost power just as you described. Sometimes it would run and other times it wouldn't. After opening the fuel line at different points looking for a clog, starting from the engine and going to the pump, I realized there was no clog. The cheap pump was pumping backwards, into the tank. It had worked correctly for 55 miles, then suddenly reversed while on the highway. Switching the wires got it running again, but as far as I know it could switch directions at any time. Maybe it's missing a start capacitor.

Just another scenario, if the car has an eBay fuel pump.
 
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Old 02-03-18, 02:46 PM
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Ok...first...I messed up and said oil "cap" when you were talking dipstick. A little bit of goo is pretty common on the cap if the weather is cold (which it is right now in the RoK) and you take a lot of short trips. Being on the dipstick is a bit of a different story unless it's just at the top of the fill level. You can pretty much look at the oil lower down on the dipstick and get an idea if it's contaminated or not. I'd recommend an oil and filter change and warming the car up to full operating temp at least every other day and keeping it there for 10-15 minutes. Check it daily and if after 2 weeks no indication, then your engine is fine in all likelihood.

If you want to test ukrbyk's theory (which doesn't seem to hold water with me...lol..get it...hold water?) Just pop the radiator cap or look in the overflow or both. If you see any froth or oiliness in there, then yeah, you've got a bigger problem. More common though..it's water in the oil, not the other way round.

Since it drove normally after a short stop, I highly doubt it's anything with the timing belt or chain (you have a belt)...since those aren't just going to fix themselves. As far as I can tell (bit harder with vehicles not sold in the US, but appears to be same as the Golf R which was sold here...8 valve engine?) you have an interference engine, so if you'd skipped a tooth or 2, you'd likely at least "kiss" the valves in operation. Of course, broken would have left you on the side of the road permanently.

As I said initially and Dixie reiterated, it sounds more like a fuel issue whether caused by the actual fuel system or something electrical/electronic . A fuel pressure test can check the pump pretty well, but won't tell you anything about actual flow through the filters. Even an almost fully blocked filter will still build pressure. RoK has some very high fuel standards, so unlikely it's any sort of contamination in that way.
 
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Old 02-03-18, 06:27 PM
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at around 5-10 km/h and could feel the power loss getting worse. Car was stuttering back in forth and sound of the exhaust was like spuddering (loud and then quiet, loud and then quiet). It eventually gave me absolutely no more power that I couldn't drive anymore and I just stopped/parked,
You have 3 in a row bad timing signs.

Ahhhh... I don't think it's 'that easy". I safely bet, it'll catch him again and in absolutely worst time and place. Frappe on dipstick is no good sign, sorry. If coolant went into oil, it won't show anything in radiator.
That said. Our infamous VW Jetta I mentioned. Got stalled once sort of similar. It was something on battery top. Germans stuck a bunch of electronics onto some sort of plate, sitting on top of battery posts. One of those fancy electronic parts went bad and car died out. No start. We had to tow her.
 
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Old 02-03-18, 09:31 PM
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Igor...you said the "frappe" is made by spinning water pump..not me. If there's oil in the coolant as you suggested by that statement...it WILL be visible on the rad cap and likely the overflow.

And you even agree...it could be some sort of electronic/electrical gremlin affecting the engine, but it's not the belt jumping teeth if it drove normally 5 min later...agreed?

But neither of us are there, and I'm sure not planning a trip to South Korea anytime soon.
 
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Old 02-03-18, 10:59 PM
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Wow really good responses thanks. I just have a question for ukrybk. If it was the head gasket blowing while I was making a pass (pushing a bit harder rpms), and that's what made me lose power to the pedals, would my car still be able to restart again after 5 minutes of being off and then drive home perfectly fine at around 60-80km for 15 minutes?

If it is the head gasket (but I don't know for sure), should I play it safe rather than sorry and try to buy a product like this: "Blue Devil Pour N Go Head Gasket Sealer"? What if it's not a blown head gasket? Will it still be safe for me to pour this product into my radiator without a HG blown but just to be safe because I have to drive 100km to get to my service center. I just read about all the bad things that can happen if driving with a blown HG and sounds very very bad...I wouldn't mind spending the extra money and just being extra safe and use that Blue Devil Head Gasket Sealer product (even if it's not really a blown HG).


For Gunguy, yes the frappe or goo was only found at the top and middle of the dipstick when I pulled it out. The actual tip of the dipstick where it says MIN - MAX doesn't have any goo on it at all. That's a good sign right?

I will take a look inside but honestly I've never done that before so I'm not too sure if I'll be able to tell anything having looking it for the first time. I'll also take a look at the ignition coils (watch some videos on youtube and saw how easy it is to do that). The car is Stage 2 tuned so I learned from the videos that stock ignition coils will often blow or can't handle a stage 1, 2 etc. They recommend that I install ignition coils meant for tuned turbocharged engines...maybe the previous owner left stock coils in and one blew? I'm not sure how I can check for that but I'll see what I can see when I pull them out.

On another note that might be related to this, I do have some minor leakage issues. I checked the spot where I've been parking for the last 3 months and there are some dark spots evident of some kind of fluid leaking under the engine bay. It's not a lot...looks more like dribbles or dabs here and there over a 3 month period. It appears black/dark...my guess is it is either engine oil or transmission oil...i don't think coolant or power steering or brake fluid would make that color. I did have my brake fluid changed 2 months ago too along with an oil and filter change. It could be a bad oil gasket, corroded line, rear main seal or maybe something is just not attached properly, a loose valve?
 
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Old 02-04-18, 12:46 AM
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Black stains like you describe are almost always oil drips. Cars do that, esp if things have been changed, worked on, or modified from stock. I think this was bought used IIRC? Like I said regarding the oil..change it...make sure it gets nice and hot and odds are your goo issue will go away. Heck, you could probably skip the change and just run it to full operating temp for at least 15 min every day for 2 weeks. If it's not real expensive...change it and you'll have a good baseline for comparison. You are checking all your fluid levels regularly right? Take a piece of tape for the coolant, stick it on the overflow and mark exactly where it is..then check again under the same conditions..no change...no problem. Big change...big problem. Same with oil...you can scratch a mark on the dipstick to tell you exactly. Oh, wait...that's what we used to do in the "old days"...now...just take a good closeup pic with your phone...even better.

It's always an issue with a hi perf car that has been messed with...you don't know what the last owner did. A brand new one that you'd owned forever, you'd know if anything looked strange or different right off the bat. It would run forever with no problems just by doing the regular maintenance...as long as it was done correctly.

Jeez don't put any junk in your engine that promises the moon. Esp right before taking it to a shop. If it changes the symptoms, it's likely a bandaid on a sucking chest wound. I had 2 blown head gaskets on a Dodge I bought new...bad design and bad castings...all it did was decrease my power and foul my number 7 plug. Still completely driveable...just a bit slower.

As to your "stage 2" tune, that means about as much as someone saying they had a "race cam" in their hot rod in my day. Unless it's a factory option, it can mean anything the "tuner" wants it to mean.
 
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Old 02-04-18, 03:56 AM
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Again, good points. My head hurts cuz I've just been cramming as much studying as I can about all these potential issues to look out for, but I do feel like I've gained a lot of knowledge already. It's so darn cold now and I don't park at home...(old issue don't want to get into that lol) so it's hard for me to just go and check everything now. I have to do it tomorrow when I'm at work in my spare time.

I just learned about this OBD or OBD2 diagnostic thing. It seems like one can actually buy their own OBD diagnostic scanner tool and plug it right into the port in the car. It should then show any or all codes if anything was wrong with the car according to the computer. I think it would even show if a past mechanic had erased the check engine lights. I saw that in a video. I thought to myself, wow, shouldn't everyone own of these things? It would instantly help everyone when buying a used car to just plug it in and see if the car has any errors. That would have been useful. Anyways, hoping it's nothing too serious, but I'll do all the checks I possibly can tomorrow.

1. check coolant level when cold, then check it again later when car's warmed up
2. look inside coolant tank to see if there is any brown color or bubbles (means head gasket leak/coolant leak)
3. look under the engine cap and see if there is any froth/milkshake with bubbles or not
4. when car is idling, put my hand over the open engine cap hole to feel if there is any air pressure coming out or smoke
5. when starting the car, set up a camera to see if white/blue smoke comes out from the exhaust (indicating coolant leak, unburned fuel
6. do this again but after the car was warmed up, and restart the car and see if white/blue smoke comes out with a sweet odor or not
7. let car idle for about 50 minutes, check dipstick for any bubbles, goo,
8. also check engine oil level on dipstick
9. when turning the key half way (not starting the engine) listen for the fuel pump to turn on, if no sound, could mean either
fuel pump gone or simply just a fuse gone or i think something called a relay switch. I don't have any tools to check the pressure
for fuel line to make sure pressure is where it should be (i think around 30 psi)
10. I don't have the tools to remove spark plugs to check and see if they are eroded or if there is oil inside the chamber

I'll report back once I do all these tests.
 
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Old 02-04-18, 04:05 AM
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I just learned about this OBD or OBD2 diagnostic thing. It seems like one can actually buy their own OBD diagnostic scanner tool and plug it right into the port in the car. It should then show any or all codes if anything was wrong with the car according to the computer.
They are nice to have. I paid in the neighborhood of $100 for mine. I have seen some cheap ones for $50 although I don't know how well those are built. Here in the states many auto parts stores will hook up theirs for free and print out what it says.
 
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Old 02-04-18, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by guy293482
". . . many ppl have told me it sounds like it could be an ignition coil issue....i should probably have the coil packs replaced . . ."
Sure, and I'm sure there are many mechanics ready, willing and able to take your money to change those out for you . . . . just ask !

An Onboard Diagnostic Code Reader (OBDII) will tell you if there's anything erratic or questionable about the ignition . . . . an examination of your Plugs may reveal that they're being fouled by Coolant.

At 54000 KM (34000 miles), that car is still virtually new . . . . is it still under your Canadian Warranty ?
 
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Old 02-04-18, 06:00 AM
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if anything was wrong with the car according to the computer. I think it would even show if a past mechanic had erased the check engine lights.

So understand that the OBD readers are nothing more than a tool in the tool box and the codes you get are system errors not a specific diagnostic pointer. You still have to interpolate the symptom, the code, and know enough about the system to know what it will take to fix.

Were not quite there with self diagnostic vehicles!

Cheap readers are just that, readers, you need a high level machine like the Tech 2 scanner the dealers use to erase stored codes.

there was some kind of yellow fatty looking deposits around the dipstick

Could be operfectly normal, water vapor is in the oil from combustion, some can go up the dipstick and freeze, you can even get it under the cap, but it usually boils off once the engine warms up!
 
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Old 02-04-18, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Marq1
". . . you need a high level machine like the Tech 2 scanner the dealers use to erase stored codes . . ."
I just have an inexpensive Astron CP-9575 and it clears Codes and extinguishes Check Engine Lights for me.
 
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Old 02-04-18, 06:42 AM
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I'm not sure of the model number but I also have an Astron. It clears codes, turns off the check engine light along with explaining what each code means. I don't use it a lot but it beats having to run down to AutoZone and having them read/explain the codes.
 
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Old 02-04-18, 01:38 PM
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Yeah...I thought about buying an Astron...but bought an Actron instead.
 
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Old 02-04-18, 01:57 PM
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I didn't realize you had missed your calling as a proofreader . . . . good job !
 
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Old 02-04-18, 05:18 PM
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Lol...hey..it's a gift! Or is it OCD?
 
  #21  
Old 02-04-18, 08:15 PM
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Here's what I can report after doing some visual checks today (and yes I ordered a cheap OBD2 unit and see if that might show me any codes...it should arrive in 1 or 2 days).

BEFORE starting the engine (cold)
-checked coolant, it was at perfect level (right in the middle), bright pink clear, no bubbles, no brown or goo
-checked engine oil, at or near MAX, clear (as I recently did an oil + filter change), the condensation goo not an issue due to my short drives (I had better just drive it longer)
-couldn't open the engine tank cap, too tight maybe due to cold/freezing temp. will open it after driving.

START UP
-when I started the ignition half way, I heard the fuel pump activate (hum)
-when I started the engine, no white smoke from the exhaust pipes other than your usual condensation from cold weather
(note: it may be because i just started the engine and there's no unburnt fuel yet to come out as white smoke so I'll check it again after engine is warmed and driven)
-I was able to open the engine cap after a few minutes of idling to warm it up. I did find that yellow froth/milkshake like good under the cap and at the top inside the tank, but upon more reading, but I read again that it may be due to the condensation moisture build up for only driving short distances everyday like I do. That would also explain why it was on my dipstick.
-no check engine lights, no weird sounds, smells, everything seems normal.
-no rough idling, smooth as always, around 700-800 rpms at idle

DROVE to WORK 7km (took it easy at 60-80km)
-left the car idling for about 30 minutes
-everything still fine as reported but I did notice smoke was still coming out of the exhaust pipe. I'm not sure if that's because the weather is very cold but the engine had been on for over 30 minutes by this time and the engine temp was warmed up to 90.... I revved it lightly a couple times and no white smoke came out just the regular condensation of cold weather smoke, but still wondering if it's normal for smoke to come out from the exhaust. It was about -10 to -12 in the morning.

I couldn't remove the ignition coils. Maybe I wasn't pulling it hard enough but I couldn't pull it out with my hands so I just left it. But I did take note of the ignition coil make: BOSCH 0 221 604 115 (050) made in Slovenia 11 2 31/16 05634. Not sure if this is stock ignition coils or not. When the previous owner did the Stage 2 tune, he should have upgraded the ignition coils for tuned turbocharged engines because I read that stock ignition coils will blow easy and can't handle the power/voltage(?) from a tuned engine. Since I couldn't pull out the coils and spark plugs, I still don't know if there's an issue with them.

The last thing, I don't know how I can check for a blocked/clogged fuel filter or fuel line or to check the fuel pump, pressure....that stuff I guess I have to leave to the shop.


One question: I keep reading that another symptom of blown head gasket is engine overheating. If the engine/coolant temp oil is 90, can the engine still overheat or is that contradictory? If I'm not mistaken doesn't the engine oil/coolant MEAN the engine temp? So if the coolant temp is not overheating, then the engine can't be overheating right? Or is there another temperature for the engine besides the coolant gauge/reading?


Lastly, if it's still possible it's a blown or leaking HG, is it possible that the previous owner could have used a HG sealer (just dump it into the radiator) and it patched it up lightly, then sold the car and if the next owner (like me) drives it a little hard (4-5k rpm, 140km+) would cause the HG to leak again? I'm just wondering if that might be a common and sneaky way to patch something up, then sell the car at full value to avoid the possibility of having to pay for major engine repairs down the line? Just a thought that ran through my head.

(in response to mark: I'm actually in Korea (makes everything a lot more difficult for me), the car was bought used, the carfax equivalent here all read "clean" no accidents, nothing wrong with the car, but of course I realize it's still possible to forge those reports).
 
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Old 02-06-18, 05:48 PM
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I got a cheap little OBD2 bluetooth device and use Torque Lite. I plugged it and I saw no error codes but I was pulling up some displays and they show up fine except fuel pressure. It has NO DATA it says. I'm wondering if that' means that fuel pressure is not detected or purely mechanical and doesn't apply to OBD2 scans? Or could that be the reason for my car issue?
 
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Old 02-07-18, 02:52 AM
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usually you would have to check fuel pressure with a gauge either hooked in at the test port or T in the fuel line if there is no test port.
you may want to see a shop but unless they can see the problem occur with no codes present they may have a hard time finding the issue.
 
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Old 02-07-18, 03:47 PM
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Ok, after this post, I actually went and looked at my cars oil caps. Lexus and Toyota have no signs of anything whatsoever. RAM had some water droplets, but that WATER droplets, BIG engine and HUGE oil filler/cap. I am not buying into condensation being oil/coolant frappe. Oil and water do not mix. They have to be beaten into frappe state by some sort of mixer.
Engine overheating. Sure, if you run out of coolant OR exhaust gas leaks into coolant, causing it to overheat. But GC may leak in various directions. Into combustion chambers, outside the head, into the cooling lines, into the oil lines. All of the above. Every time, results will be different.
Who knows what previous owner did, right? All I know is that good cars are not really sold. They are rare find and keepers.
 
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Old 02-07-18, 07:31 PM
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Not completely ruling out your suggestion for sure. I'll be able to know better after I drive it 100km and I'll check under the cap again and see if it's been burned off or if it's still like that. Also, the 3 other major signs are not present: 1) coolant level has not changed, 2) engine has not overheated ever, even during that loss of power I had experienced, engine temp was perfect at 90, 3) no white smoke blowing out my exhaust pipes.

This is one guy with VW Golf R who had that yellow sludge under his engine cap during the winter as he also drove very short distances to work each day. Then in the summer he showed how it was completely clean/gone. I'm hoping that is the case with me, too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AalvV5IvjlQ

More OBD2 readings (not sure if it helps) but at idle, my vacuum was around 21, and when driving around 80m it went down to 12-13
My Fuel rail pressure at idle was around 700-750, and when driving at 80km/h it was around 1000-1100

I'm still leaning towards something with either the fuel filter? clogged? a pump? or the ignition coils/spark plugs (?)
 
  #26  
Old 02-12-18, 06:47 AM
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Ok folks well went into a specialist Scirocco garage today and it looks like everything is ok.

First, my car has a Stage 2+ (by APR) so it means that I'm supposed to be using premium gas (high octane 98 or above) and not regular gas
like I've been using. Next, we changed out the coil packs (which apparently were cheaper ones from Bosch) to the better ones that cost about 350 bucks.
I also changed out the spark plugs and put in new ones and lastly replaced the fuel filter (past records indicate it had never been replaced yet and this car has 54,000 km so I guess that was due). We test drove it (well the guy did while I was plastered in the drivers seat since he was going 240 km / hr to test the top speed and the boost) and everything works fine. I drove home at about 140-160km without issue (normally I will only do 120 but just for test purposes). I will switch to premium gas from now on and that should improve the smoothness even more since my tuned engine is designed for high octane.

He checked a couple other things...something called a "cam follower" i think ...it was a tiny metal cap or something and he said everytime u do an oil change, you should check this cam follower to make sure it's good...he said if that breaks, the engine will be destroyed/gone. Freaked me out lol.
What heck is a cam follower?

Anyways, now my next challenge is to figure out how I'm going to remove the one wheel lock that is on all four of my wheels. I need a 12 point socket with thin walls so that it can fit as the space is very tight.
 
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Old 02-12-18, 07:22 AM
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my next challenge is to figure out how I'm going to remove the one wheel lock that is on all four of my wheels
Check with your local tire stores, they might have a socket/key to fit your wheel locks. Be prepared to replace those locks with either regular lug nuts or new locking ones.
 
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Old 02-12-18, 07:42 AM
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Anyways, now my next challenge is to figure out how I'm going to remove the one wheel lock that is on all four of my wheels. I need a 12 point socket with thin walls so that it can fit as the space is very tight.
Check Gorilla products. They likely have what you need: Gorilla Automotive Products
 
  #29  
Old 02-14-18, 03:32 AM
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I think I was able to find my vw wheel lock key on ebay called Key code V. It looks exactly the same pattern as mine. I ordered it so when I get it in about a month, we'll see if I can get my wheel locks off.

Upon more research, I now think what happened to my car that day was something called a "fuel cut". I don't think it had anything to do with what we all thought: spark plugs, ignition coils, fuel filter or some even thought head gasket leak etc. But after doing some more research, it sounds like it was a fuel cut. That's why when I turned off the car and turned it back on 5 minutes later, it was working fine again. A fuel cut also doesn't show any problems in terms of readings/gauges such as engine temp, fuel rail pressure, catalyst temp, transmission, temp and no CEL, every possible reading I could find in the OBD2 software was perfect or optimal. Nothing was out of the ordinary.

In any case, I think I have to keep an eye on the diverter valve, cam follower, and HPFP which now seem to be the bigger issues to watch out for than any of the previous ideas we had. Of course it was still good to just change out the spark plugs, ignition coils and fuel filter for sake of maintenance....the car does seem to drive better but then again it could just be a placebo effect. I'll fill up on premium gas the next time and see if that makes even more difference. All this time I was just using regular gas which might explain why sometimes I felt turbo lag or less responsiveness when I floored it.
 
  #30  
Old 02-14-18, 04:40 AM
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Your "Fuel Cut" sounds like an instance of old fashioned Vapor Lock. Does your fuel line run past any heated surfaces where the fuel inside is likely to linger and has a chance to vaporize before it arrives at the Fuel Rail and the Fuel Injectors ?

Originally Posted by guy293482
". . . it was still good to just change out the spark plugs, ignition coils and fuel filter for sake of maintenance . . ."

I knew you'd find someone willing to replace all of those . . . . but you probably don't want to routinely repeat that every oil change on a car that new just for the sake of maintenance.
 

Last edited by Vermont; 02-14-18 at 05:01 AM.
  #31  
Old 02-14-18, 06:40 AM
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thanks Vermont. I really don't know. My knowledge of car mechanics is very limited and all this stuff I'm mentioning are things I literally just learned this past week to yesterday! lol.

Do you think there might be in my car make/model? I guess I'll have to just look into vapor lock and see if it's a common thing or not with my make/model or with the tuning that was done to it.
 
  #32  
Old 02-14-18, 07:55 AM
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FWIW, my niece had a similar issue with her VW and it turned out being the camshaft position sensor. I've had an Infiniti G35 do the same thing (stumble abruptly, engine cuts off, etc) and there was no CEL. I would let the car sit for a minute and it would start right up and not do it again for several weeks or even months. Given VW's history of electrical issues, I wouldn't rule this out.
 
  #33  
Old 02-19-18, 03:30 AM
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Thanks, that sounds reasonable too based on the same symptoms. If it's that, does that mean only the sensor itself is malfunctioning and needs to get replaced or does that mean the camshaft itself is damaged and may need to get replaced?

It's been a week since getting a new fuel filter, spark plugs and coil packs....everything seems good so far....but I do remember for about 2 milliseconds I felt a rough shake in the car at low speed....don't know what that "could" mean but if it happens more often I'll definitely update about that. All signs are at optimal levels (when I check the obd2 reports and gauges)....the only thing that I haven't changed yet is the gas in the tank. It's still regular and I'm supposed to use high octane / premium gas for the tuned engine. I'm not sure if that might be what is causing a bit of these issues. Once that gas is near empty, I will fill up on premium gas from now on and see how it feels when I drive.
 
  #34  
Old 02-19-18, 08:21 PM
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Thanks, that sounds reasonable too based on the same symptoms. If it's that, does that mean only the sensor itself is malfunctioning and needs to get replaced or does that mean the camshaft itself is damaged and may need to get replaced?
Anything is possible, but in the case of my late G35 and my niece's VW Passat, replacing the camshaft position sensors fixed the problem.
 
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