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Problem with my Toyota Corolla, 1997, 1.6L, ...4 DR 4Cyl for the exhaust Leak,.


rakesh15's Avatar
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02-06-18, 05:29 PM   #1 (permalink)  
Problem with my Toyota Corolla, 1997, 1.6L, ...4 DR 4Cyl for the exhaust Leak,.

My car is Toyota Corolla, 1997, 1.6L engine, 4 Cyln, 4 door,….155+K miles,… dark green color,… ( Exhaust parts needed are California mission and Not Federal ones ) This, year it did not pass thro’ motor vehicle and I was told it has exhaust leak,… as it sounds like some hole in front exhaust pipe, either below the engine in manifold connection and/or in steel flexible pipe,…and also they check with their sensor,…. inserting at exhaust pipe and also below the steering wheel’s dash board….. and It FAILED. They say,.. air and also fumes is coming in the exhaust, so there is hole in front exhaust walker pipe / steel flex pipe,..,….and air is getting in,.. ( OBD test was passed ) It failed in safety for exhaust,.. Probably below the engine, in manifold pipe / front exhaust pipe ( part no. 53459 ) has a hole/crack ( no noticeable any smoke is coming out ) and/or also hole in flexible steel pipe,…. And while getting free estimates for 3-5 guys, ( they lifted the car and inspected at PeopBoyz / ASAP / Meineke / 2-3 private small guys,.. their opinions vary,.. Most says,…. Cut and weld a new steel flexible pipe,… but we dunno if there is more problem in manifold / catalytic converter or elsewhere in pipe too,.. we know only once opened,.. Few others said, rather replace the front exhaust pipe as one piece all the way to catalytic converter,…. ( so, you do not need to cut/weld/build on the old rotten and corroded pipe,.. Few said, Catalytic converter also need to be changed,… Few perfectionists said, whole exhausted system is old, rotten, rust, all flanges are gone,… so better change and replace whole exhaust system,… I dunno wanna spend more money , and if done by tapes/pody/cement/silver tape for flue gases / bandaid rolls,….just for pass the inspection be suffice,…… No one is ready to use, cement, pody, masking tapes, bandage rolls and such to temporarily fix it just to pass the inspection,. As my car will have to scrap after 1-2 yrs, as it’s old now, and has also problem with hood ( opening string broken ) and low mpg s ( average giving ) ,. Also has 155+K miles,… My question is,… where do you generally order the required parts economically ?( front exhaust walker pipe ( California mission ) part no. 53459 and its related gasket nos 31332 , 31534… ) Pepboys and autozone are expensive, as they also buy from third party vendor many a times with middle man profit,….. e-bay and amazon are risk as, to and fro whipping will kill you.,…… Any solution ? Also, Chilton or any good service repair manual you would suggest for this car? Any advices/suggestions,… ? How would I get a complete picture from any good repair service book / PDG copy available on-line,.. etc ? Most probably I will have to buy this whole long part with two gaskets at each end, and stil not sure, may/ may not need catalytic converter too. Few said yr muffler is new, so all are talking about basically, the front exhaust walker pipe,…. ( No. 53459 )









https://www.walmart.com/ip/WALKER-EX...1476#read-more




https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...apaBMwQ8wII2gE




https://www.amazon.com/Walker-53459-...UST+53459+PIPE


Pepboyz and autozone hav ehigher prices, even after their on-lin ebuying and 10 percent or so discount, though advantage is free shipping to you/store,...



 
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the_tow_guy's Avatar
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02-06-18, 09:20 PM   #2 (permalink)  
Pick one and put it on. Do not mess with repairing the existing pipe and there's no need to replace either the cat or the whole system. Run away from anyone who suggests either of those two options.


Measure it with a micrometer; cut it with an ax.

 
rakesh15's Avatar
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02-07-18, 06:44 AM   #3 (permalink)  
Revised post :
.

I am planning to buy the part fromm Walmart, as they are the lowest priice,....plus it's easy to get it free home delivered,... and also to return at store, if not used,... and perhaps hire a small mechanic for 50 dollar job,..... Am I doing it right, or could there be other better solution ? Most guys said,.. the other half on the back of converter is not thatt bad,... However al flanges were poor and rusted, so no idea how it will hold it, unless tehy use their some trick....
.
Thx..
.

Revised :
.

. Problem with my Toyota Corolla, 1997, 1.6L, ...4 DR, 4Cyl for the exhaust Leak,.......
.


My car is Toyota Corolla, 1997, 1.6L engine, 4 Cyln, 4 door,….155+K miles,… dark green color,… ( Exhaust parts needed are 'California mission ' and Not Federal ones )
.

This year, it did not pass thro’ motor vehicle and I was told, it has exhaust leak/hole/crack somewhere...,… as it sounds like some hole in front exhaust pipe, either below the engine in manifold connection and/or in steel flexible pipe,…and also,...... they checked it with their sensor,…. inserting at exhaust pipe and also below the steering wheel’s dash board….. and It FAILED at Motor Vehicle.... They say,.. air and also fumes is coming in the exhaust, so there is hole in the front exhaust walker pipe / steel flex pipe,..,….and air is getting in,.. ( OBD test was passed )
It failed in safety for exhaust,..
.

Probably below the engine, in manifold pipe / front exhaust pipe ( part no. 53459 ) has a hole/crack ( not noticeable any smoke is coming out ) and/or also hole in flexible steel pipe,….

And while getting free estimates for 3-5 guys, ( they lifted / jacked the car and inspected at PeopBoyz / ASAP / Meineke / 2-3 private small guys,.. n' their opinions vary,..

Most says,…. Cut and weld a new steel flexible pipe,… ( risky to do teh work on all rused 21+ yrs old pipe though,.... ) but we dunn'o if there is more problem in manifold / catalytic converter or elsewhere in pipe too,.. we know only, once opened,..
Few others said,....... rather replace the front exhaust pipe as one piece all the way to catalytic converter,…. ( so, you do not need to cut/weld/build on the old rotten and corroded pipe,.. But still teh flanges at both ends of the other connecting pipes are gone/rusted / very thin,..
.
Few said, Catalytic converter also need to be changed,…
.

Few perfectionists said, whole exhausted system is old, rotten, rusted, all flanges are gone,… so better change and replace the whole exhaust system,… around 1700+ dollar estimate ( my car was bought for 1700 dollars 9 yrs ago )
.

I dunno wanna spend more money , and if done by tapes/pody/cement/silver tape for flue gases / bandaid rolls,….just for passing the inspection be suffice,…… ( Car is on its last leg for another 1-2 yrs as I drive extremely little )
.

No one is ready to use, cement, pody, masking tapes, bandage rolls and such to temporarily fix it just to pass the inspection,. As my car will have to scrap after 1-2 yrs, as it’s old now, and has also problem with hood ( opening string broken ) and low mpg s ( average giving ) ,. Also has 155+K miles,…
.

My question is,… where do you generally order the required parts economically ?
( front exhaust walker pipe ( California mission ) part no. 53459 and its related gasket nos 31332 , 31534… )
.

Pepboys and autozone are expensive, as they also buy from third party vendor many a times with middle man profit,….. e-bay and amazon are risk as, to and fro whipping will kill you.,…… Any solution ?
.

Also, Chilton or any good service repair manual you would suggest for this car? Any advice/suggestions,… ? How would I get a complete picture from any good repair service book / PDF copy available on-line,.. etc ?
.

Most probably I will have to buy this whole long part with two gaskets at each end, and still not sure, may/ may not need catalytic converter too. Few said yr muffler is new, so all are talking about basically, the front exhaust walker pipe,…. ( No. 53459 )
.

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.




https://www.walmart.com/ip/WALKER-EX...1476#read-more


https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...apaBMwQ8wII2gE


https://www.amazon.com/Walker-53459-...UST+53459+PIPE


Pepboyz and autozone have higher prices, even after their on-line buying and 10 percent or so discount, though advantage is,.... free shipping to you/store,...



 
rakesh15's Avatar
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02-07-18, 07:58 AM   #4 (permalink)  
What is California part versus Federal approved ( EPA ) part,..? They both will fit my car, or they are made different way ( kinks and turns? ) . Somewhere I read opinions about this part that, they had to turn and twist and make it hot / hot water application and then bend it,.. then and then both flange coupling will join the both sides’ relate pipes?
.
. What is yr opinion ? Thx.
.
Have you ever bought parts from catalog, from online like,.. rockauto.com , summitracing.com, jegs.com ? .

How about sites like carid.com or jcwhitney.com ? Any opinions?


Last edited by rakesh15; 02-07-18 at 09:43 AM.
 
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02-07-18, 02:11 PM   #5 (permalink)  
suspect there may be some differences between CAL emissions and federal since there are 2 different part numbers would probably check the emission sticker under the hood see if it is was built for CAL or federal emissions so you can buy the correct part once you get the leak fixed probably have to have it retested to see if it needs anymore repairs.

 
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02-07-18, 03:54 PM   #6 (permalink)  
OK, so do you have hole or not? I saw dozens of opinions mentioned, but have you actually SEEN a hole or crack in pipe itself?
Exhaust leak outside where you mention it is normally worn out exhaust manifold to flex pipe seal. A large steel wool and some high temp plastic donut. That's like 20 bucks part and about 30 min job on 4 banger. Much more casswork and labor on V6, I did it.
So you need to first determine, if there indeed is a hole or not.
You know how to actually see it? Wait till it's pitch dark. Start engine. Pop hood open and look down at exhaust. If you see any FLAMES coming out, you do have hole or crack. You won't see "smoke".

 
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02-07-18, 08:32 PM   #7 (permalink)  
I think my car is Cal. as per below hood information and that part no is right and given by 2-4 people, so it’s particular about Cal standard, and should work,….. 3-4 guys said that part no..

I guess,.. Federal cat. converter has little shorter/longer length,…. per their standard and hence due to that,… this front flex pipe length and bend / curvey shape and flange also may vary,… so you must buy ( right part ) Cal part, if underneath the hood says so,…. And it does say so,..

 
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02-07-18, 08:39 PM   #8 (permalink)  
I think, at the down pipe,. Prol’y Cat converter and muffler are new,. I bought it used one from one guy, 9+ yrs ago,… and 3-4 repair guys just talked about the front half,..( after elevating the car on jack ) in fact ASAP wrote it clearly that,…. Muffler is replaced,…. Only pepboys ( they don’t do exhaust work, only the replacements,.. ) and meineke said replace whole system ( eventually will have to ) , and Meineke later gave estimate all the way till Cat converter and not afterwards,.. ..
.

IMO, car has its value now hardly of 400-500 dollars and not worth to spend that much,…. If someone could tape it with duct tape /pody/cement,… its just suffices for me to pass the DMV, per my approach,….. but no one is ready to do that,…. What I am more concerned is, since there is no visibly exhaust is seeming coming out,, from either steel flex pipe or below the engine and manifold area,… I still worry, that even after doing this work,.. if crack is in manifold, the car will not still pass,… ‘Coz every time guy said,….. showing me below the engine that manifold part area,…that sound is coming from that area,… may be crack or hole there ? I am talking about this area,…..

.

( typical pics - not my car )
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

Talking about the white aluminum part between radiator cap and engine,... Noisy sound is coming from there, every one says,.... its most proly the steel flex pipe,...





https://i.ytimg.com/vi/JZDXHdyiF5o/maxresdefault.jpg


https://i.ytimg.com/vi/cbRitBF2c4Q/maxresdefault.jpg
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.




All pictures are typical from net,....

.
Even when the engine is accelerated, I see no smoke / hole / crack from that manifold white cover area described above,.. 4-5 mechanics had been below the car and they all had blamed Flex pipe and few even had only talked about cut/weld and install new flex piece in between,... but even when the car was elevated 7 feet in air,...and running on that high jack,.. i saw no smoke, from flex pipe either,.... just rusty flanges and weird noisy sound ( giving hint of hole in exhaust ) coming below the manifold,...

..

.....

 
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02-08-18, 03:01 AM   #9 (permalink)  
flex pipe would be a common area for a leak to develop on most cars they do start leaking at the flex pipe eventually, but if your not certain where its leaking from and you only value the car at 4-5 hundred dollars i think the obvious solution would just trade it in on a new or used car that is in better condition.

 
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02-08-18, 02:39 PM   #10 (permalink)  
I see yr point,.. but at least 5-6 guys suggested as flex pipe ( to do cut/weld of that piece ) and few even to replace the whole front pipe,.. so I must trust them,.. though I could not se any fumes coming out when the car was raised every time, also when my car is on ground and ON, I see no exhausts coming out from that center of the car, from underneath,… .Also, I hate to change the car which I am used to for driving, also my budget and current job situation do mot permit me to spend any more, than needed,…


.
I just uploaded the video of my car here, I also accelerated the wire , if you see any smoke,… I see none,.. https://www.facebook.com/rakesh.jani...9900499085846/

https://www.facebook.com/rakesh.jani...9900025752560/

 
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02-08-18, 06:20 PM   #11 (permalink)  
Say,... if this part is having the felony ( crack/hole ),.. then all money wasted for parts and labor would be a free unnecessary exercise !


https://www.ebay.com/i/132370116385?chn=psThis image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

 
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02-10-18, 07:43 AM   #12 (permalink)  
Yes, any replacement done on guess is waste of time and money, unless you are chosen one and you guessed right. Sometimes happens, mostly not. I just dumped $2000 in repairs based on my best guess and the problem is still there.
So, maybe simply bite the bullet and actually do something, instead of circling through forums and "guys"? NO ONE can really diagnose YOUR car problem over the internet.

 
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02-10-18, 08:13 AM   #13 (permalink)  
I think this thread has run it's course and I see nothing new having to be added, so it is closed.


Measure it with a micrometer; cut it with an ax.

 
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