2013 VW Scirocco: engine turned off after startup

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  #1  
Old 03-06-18, 06:13 PM
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2013 VW Scirocco: engine turned off after startup

Hmm, looks like me issue may not be over yet. After my previous issue (previous thread), I went in and got new coil packs, spark plugs and changed the oil filter. Everything seemed to run good after that. Just 7 days ago I switched over to premium gas (as I was supposed to use that in the first place) and it seemed to help, too. I'm pretty sure I felt an improvement in response and power and seemed much smoother. But I did notice that in the mornings when I startup, the idle became a bit rough. It normally stays at around 700-800 rpm but ever since the premium gas fill up, I noticed my idle goes up to around 1000 rpm and up and down, then it settles down after a minute to the normal 700-800 rpm range.

This morning for the first time, after starting up the engine, 20 seconds later it shut off by itself. The idle sounded like it was sputtering (like struggling to stay on) and then finally it just stopped. I restarted the car and gave it a couple of pushes at the pedal and then drove off just fine the rest of the day.

I did some research again and narrowed it down to some of these possibilities: fuel related part (failing fuel pump? fuel injector?) or maybe something wrong with the MAF or O2 sensor? Gas mileage is still good (has not changed), car drives fine, no other issues apparent). It's only when I startup and idle sounds like its sputtering at the exhaust pipes.

Any other ideas?
Thanks
 
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  #2  
Old 03-06-18, 06:37 PM
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Year/make/model of vehicle ?? (My crystal ball is in the shop)
Stored codes ?? Usually with problems like that you are getting codes or a CEL....
 
  #3  
Old 03-07-18, 02:48 AM
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2013 VW Scirocco R (APR Stage 2+) (so I have to use premium gas).
No Check Engine Lights and no codes after an OBD2 scan.
 
  #4  
Old 03-09-18, 03:49 PM
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Fuel supply issue or ignition lock issue, as IL controls FP. Fuel supply as in fuel pump or fuel regulator.
or, whatever tells ECM when to supply petrol is sending wrong signal.
Or, someone didn't like you and put pound of sugar into your fuel tank.
 
  #5  
Old 03-10-18, 04:28 AM
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Well I dropped by a different VAG garage today and the guy checked out my car....on a side not, he didn't seem that experienced compared to the other place I went to but anyways...... he couldn't tell me anything really. He didn't find anything wrong with the car and doesn't know why at start up it would sputter and eventually shut off (unless I kept giving it some gas). The car has no issues once it is up and driving. When I am at idle at a traffic light, it doesn't sputter and doesn't shut off. It drives like normal and on the highway it was wonderful. Since I had driven about 60 km, by the time I got to the garage and turned off the car and they turned it back on, we couldn't replicate the same sputtering exhaust notes that lead to 1.2k rpm and sounding like it's going to die out. It idled perfectly at 750rpm lol.

I asked him about all the potential parts like MAF sensor, fuel pump, fuel pressure, etc, and he didn't think those were wrong. He only mentioned that with a lot of turbos, there's a lot of oil on the bottom when you park for a long time (overnight) and he thinks maybe down the line I'll have to take my turbo out and get it repaired. But as of right now, he said everything looks fine. No codes, no CEL, no leaks, disconnected plugs, or bad hoses. There's some moisture/oil on the bottom around the turbo parts but he said that's normal for turbos to always leak some oil.

So he actually spent about 2.5 hours checking stuff. I asked him to check the throttle body (cuz I read that in some cases carbon build up was the cause of that), but we looked at it and he said it was super clean. My car only has 55k km on it. So he put the throttle body back in. After all that time, he didn't actually fix anything so he didn't charge me a cent. I thought he would at least charge me for labor (the time he spent taking it apart and putting it back on etc).

So now, I don't know what to do. I guess I need to go into another place for a 2nd opinion. He did mention that he thinks it would be a good idea for me to leave the car with them overnight next time so that they can examine the "mapping". I don't know what that means but maybe ECU tuned has changed some values that I should know about? Also, the boss wasn't in (I think he's the real expert there not this worker that was there today). I spoke to the boss on the phone and he asked if my APR stage 2+ had an RFD? I don't know what is an RFD.
 
  #6  
Old 03-10-18, 04:33 AM
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I should also add that my fuel consumption has not changed. It's still where it should be at which is 500-560km range per full tank.
Actually, for some reason on the drive home, my fuel range improved up to 630 km but I'm assuming that's because I was on the highway which always yields better mpg than city driving.

Also if it's a fuel pump issue, wouldn't that be affecting me when I'm driving? Correct me if I am wrong, but if I'm not experiencing any issues while city driving, stopping, going, highway driving....then the fuel pump isn't the issue and it's working fine. It's just in the morning when I first start my car, it struggles to stay alive unless I give it a few pushes on the pedal and after about 1 minute or if I start driving right away, it seems to be just fine.
 
  #7  
Old 03-10-18, 04:38 AM
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Boost Gauge and Digital Multi Gauge

Earlier today went into shop and the guy took out my throttle body to check it (all clean no problems) and put it back in.
On the drive home, I noticed my boost gauge wasn't working. The needle was at -0.2 or -0.1 and never moved even if I floored it or put foot off the pedal. So I thought it might just be a plug he didn't connect back. So then I checked my Digital multi gauge and when I went to Boost option, it should me it was moving but only a little between -0.2 to -0.4 whether I floored it or not. Normally it should go up when flooring it (boost) and go down (vacuum) when foot off the gas. I noticed my throttle also only maxed out at 35 in the reading when I floored it but should go higher than that.

So lastly, I checked plugging my obd2 bluetooth device into the obd2 port and connected it with my phone and used torque pro app. There it should the boost/vacuum properly. It would go up into boost when flooring it and - into vacuum when letting off. Throttle worked also as the readings showed it went well over 35 when i floored it and went down when i let off.

Did the mechanic plug all my wires the wrong way? Or did he mess something up to get such odd readings like this and why the boost gauge doesn't move (needle)? I don't really know if it's that he forgot to reconnect something or he crossed them up probably...putting a wrong hose into a wrong part? Is that possible?
 
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Old 03-10-18, 07:59 AM
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Also:
I'm having a hard time finding information on what are proper/normal levels for the many different sensors
in cars. I assume some categories depend on the kind of car/make/model/tuned etc., but I think most of them apply the same all across the board.

Can you guys help me fill out the list of what "proper/healthy/optimal" levels should be for these categories? (please correct me if I am wrong but these are based on what I either researched or have monitored on my own car).

Coolant: 90 degrees
Trans. Temp: 90 degrees
Catalytic Converter: 500 - 800 degrees
Barometric pressure: 14.6 - 14.7 give or take
Throttle at idle: 12
RPMs at idle: 700-1000 rpm
Fuel rail pressure: 700-800 (idle), 1000-1500 (driving)
Fuel pressure: ?
Load: ?
Vacuum: -20-23 (idle)
Battery voltage: 14.0-14.6
Ignition timing: ?
 
  #9  
Old 03-10-18, 09:05 AM
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I combined your threads. When you start multiple threads.... the same questions get asked over and over.... like what's the make and model.

Coolant: 90 degrees 194f - ok
Trans. Temp: 90 degrees 194f - ok will go up when driving
Catalytic Converter: 500 - 800 degrees varies greatly
Barometric pressure: 14.6 - 14.7 give or take
Throttle at idle: 12 vehicle specific
RPMs at idle: 700-1000 rpm 700 is normal.... up to 1000 for cold engine
Fuel rail pressure: 700-800 (idle), 1000-1500 (driving) what value.. kpa's ?
Fuel pressure: ?
Load: ?
Vacuum: -20-23 (idle) 18-21 normal... 20-23 ok
Battery voltage: 14.0-14.6 13.8v is normal. 14.6 is high side of normal
Ignition timing: ?
 
  #10  
Old 03-10-18, 09:21 AM
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possible something didn't get hooked back up for the boost gauge causing it not to function as per the cold start problem leaving the vehicle overnight with the shop may help find the issue but if it only acts up for a couple of minutes not really much time to diagnose the problem but suspect it could be a vacuum leak.
 
  #11  
Old 03-10-18, 09:46 PM
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thanks for the reply pjmax

does anyone think it could be an "air control valve" issue? I just found info on that and symptoms fit (starting up in mornings doesn't stay on at idle unless i give it some gas until its warmed up and its good for the rest of the day). I don't really know if I have one or where it's located in my car...i think it might be with the fuel injector according to the name of the part: "VW Scirocco Fuel Injection Idle Air Control Valve".
 
  #12  
Old 03-10-18, 09:49 PM
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fuel rail pressure...yes they are in kpa with the torque pro app
 
  #13  
Old 03-11-18, 04:28 PM
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sorry that's PSI.

700ish PSI at startup and idle and about 1000-1500 psi when driving (depending on how fast).
 
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