2008 Honda CR-V A/C

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  #1  
Old 05-22-18, 09:12 AM
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2008 Honda CR-V A/C

On my Honda CRV recently the AC stopped blowing cold. When I first purchased the vehicle used a few months ago I noticed that when I was idle the AC would not be as cold as it was when moving. I then noticed that the driver side fan on the radiator was not turning. Tapping on this fan motor caused it to start spinning and colder air came out. This past week the cold air stopped coming out completely idle or driving. After a few minutes of driving it came back for a short time and then went away completely. I'm told that the clutch on the compressor might be at fault but I don't have a way to test anything to see if it works. I would appreciate some suggestions on what I could test and what I could look for in determining how much money this is going to set me back. I fear that bringing it to a mechanic will results in an estimate fee for a very expensive repair which I will have to put on hold.
 
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Old 05-22-18, 11:27 AM
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the a/c will not be as cold at idle as going down the road better airflow when the car is moving plus an increase in rpm usually means colder air however if it was failing to keep you cool most likely it had other issues like a bad fan or if it was low on Freon it would be more noticeable.

if you don't have a way to test anything there really isn't much you can do but take it to a shop and get an estimate on the repair, if the front of the a/c clutch isn't spinning with the a/c on you could check fuses I suppose but then you will really need some test equipment to go any further.
 
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Old 05-22-18, 05:00 PM
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The freon level is fine. Where do I connect a voltmeter see if everything is getting its proper amount of voltage? I purchased one of those refrigerant refills from the store and the gauge on it went red. I was also told you could hot-wire or jump- start it so any advice on what the check next?
 
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Old 05-22-18, 07:56 PM
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crv's are not to play around with. if the compressor fails it will cost you majorly. a full system replacement. and most places will not even put a warranty on it. not a DIY
 
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Old 05-23-18, 07:42 AM
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For someone with little extra income this is major. I guess I'm going to sell it and cut my loss. It is just too dang hot to drive and risk heat exhaustion.
 
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Old 05-23-18, 08:49 AM
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My understanding is that the driver's side fan is the radiator fan. The passenger side is the condenser fan. If your rad fan wasn't turning, it could simply have been that your operating temperature wasn't calling for it, and tapping it to make it spin was a fluke. Does the passenger side one turn on at all?

If you stand outside the car with the hood open, and have someone turn the A/C on, do you hear a change in noise, see the center part of the compressor start to spin, or see the passenger side fan start spinning? Do this with the windows down and the A/C set to full cold. You don't want the inside to cool off and the car to turn the A/C off in the middle of your testing.

As Alan said, if the compressor is pushing refrigerant, but the fan is dead, it won't get as cold. The forced airflow as you drive will take the place of the fan somewhat, and help it cool off.

The red indicator on your refill kit means either it's overcharged, or the compressor wasn't running at the time.

There are also relays for both the A/C condenser fan, and the A/C compressor clutch that could go bad. Unfortunately, I don't know how to test those. Perhaps someone else could help with that?
 
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Old 05-31-18, 09:12 AM
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Turns out i was right about the clutch being damaged. A service bulletin showed my symptoms and the images verified it. I ended up towing the vehicle to a repair shop as I couldnt get the snap ring off of the compressor nor could I get the serpentine belt to go back on. There wasnt enough tension released to do so. The tech replaced clutch and returned the freon to the unit and it works again. I still notice that the air seems to get less cool at times before going back to ice cold.
 
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Old 06-14-18, 07:24 AM
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The A/C systems in the CR-Vs are junk, so are belt tensioners, so are the axles, so is everything.
My old lady bought one brand new. Had to replace clutch/coil/compresser/bag at 80k miles (I wouldn't expect to have do do that for at least double that mileage).
At 95k miles we had to do it again. It's a known issue, Google it.
The drive belt/serpentine belt is the most unnecessarily difficult job. Youtube videos attest to the frustration of what is a 10-20 minute job on most cars. The guy that says "this made me want to buy a plane ticket to Japan and go punch some Japanese guy in the face" speaks for itself.
Fluids are proprietary and so are many of the tools.
To release tension on the drive belt people claim to do this with a normal 14mm wrench and socket handle but the metal on the tensioner head is cheap and without the tool will strip after the first belt change.
Furthermore the tensioner only release barely enough to struggle the new belt on.
I finally convinced her to sell this time/money pit. Anyone in the market for a 2011 CR-V?
I could live with the headaches if it was a performance car that was nice to look at but this thing is not only an eye sore but also can't get out of its own way.
My review may be harsh but it's hard to disagree with.
The upshot of all this is you're best advised to unload it, it will cost you more in the long run.
 
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