1999 Jimmy Crank No Start 4.3L

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Old 06-05-19, 11:46 AM
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1999 Jimmy Crank No Start 4.3L

.I hope someone here found a solution for this problem! I was driving when it just shut down in Houston traffic! Oh joy! No catastrophic sounds, oil pressure was around 45psi, water temp normal, voltage at 14.2 according to the gauges at the time of occurrence I ran the following tests and found: Checked and verified all fuses and relays operational, I ran the Pass Lock reset just to be sure Security light went off normally before and after test. Vehicle has 60 psi fuel at the sharder valve, ignition switch tested good, good spark at the end on the spark plug wires, rotor points to #1 at TDC, compression sounds good (not gauge tested yet but sounds like it did prior to this, no faster or slower) power at the injector gang plug, MAF is within voltage specs, MAP tested good. Will not fire even with starting fluid. Been on this for three days straight! We're having to rent a car as this is our only vehicle atm and that budget is reaching its end. Desperate to find a solution!!! Please help!
 

Last edited by Earthvillager; 06-05-19 at 01:14 PM. Reason: edit
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Old 06-05-19, 12:06 PM
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would start by checking compression with gauge see what you come up with, look at the plugs see if there wet with gas dry them off if needed before reinstalling, other things to look at is check for bad gas, plugged exhaust can pull an o2 sensor out to see if it will run.
if it has good spark and compression then it should run on starting fluid unless the cylinders are already flooded.
 
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Old 06-05-19, 01:05 PM
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Thanks for responding. I got rained out today but will do a compression test next just to dbl check. I have a new set of plugs I was going to put in anyway so I'll do that during the testing.. Not a gas issue, ran fine on the previous 1/2 of the tank, no new gas introduced. Still has 1/2 tank. I don't think the exhaust system is blocked or plugged. Catalytic converter failures are generally a gradual performance decline, this was an instantaneous failure. But I'll have the wife crank it and put my hand over the tailpipe after the compression test and check it anyway. Thanks again and if you happen to suddenly wake up in the middle of the night with a brilliant idea on this by all means share it with me! lol It should run... this one has me a might bit bewildered! lol
 
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Old 06-05-19, 01:37 PM
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not sure how you tested spark but weak spark from a bad coil or coil wire or even a hole in the rotor could also be an issue should be able to easily jump 1/4 inch gap at the plug if you use a screw driver held 1/4 inch to ground if you have nothing else available.
 
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Old 06-05-19, 04:06 PM
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High mileage??
Possibly timing gear/chain gave way.


RR
 
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Old 06-05-19, 04:07 PM
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Been there done that. Spark was orange indicating low voltage spark changed it with a new one. Little more blueish. does 1/4in. to 7/16's jump. So that's good. ???? grrr lol NEXT????!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Old 06-05-19, 04:11 PM
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Nope. Timing markers and rotor line up perfectly with #1 on top dead center.
 
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Old 06-05-19, 04:16 PM
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213,000 miles on the vehicle. Spent twelve years of my life as a Journeymen Mercedes Tech. This problem does not make sense to me. I am missing something. Wondering if the oil pressure switch ,which is designed to cut of fuel in a catastrophic event is to blame. ???
 
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Old 06-05-19, 08:12 PM
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just for giggles try turning the distributor as some one cranks, just to be sure its not a timing thing. also have the fuel gauge on to see if fuel pressure drops. these need 50-55 to open the popit valves of the injectors. but my main guess would be spark timing. cam sensor in the distributor having a delayed reading.
 
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Old 06-06-19, 04:32 AM
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I agree that its an electrical issue. You could be loosing a connection somewhere, but doubtful since you have spark... but agree with others on how much spark. If it's electrical, it could be ANYWHERE. If I was in your situation, I'd try to find a good shop that deals in mainly electrical issues & let them trace it down pretty quick. It could take you weeks, if you ever find it.
I'll try to make this story brief.
I bought a new 1988 Ford Ranger & from day one, it would just die with no warning. Did this for 2 years. Ford couldn't figure it out. The local dealer sent a wrecker after it MANY times. Sometimes it would get to the shop & crank right up. Sometimes it would be days before it would crank. Just like it would quit, it would again start without any indication of why.
Since no one in Ford could get me going, I fixed it myself........ I traded it in on a new Chevy Blazer. My problem was fixed.
About 4 or 5 years later, my brother was reading a Popular Mechanics magazine & seen an article about Ford products with this engine. There was a flaw with the screw in the distributor that kept the ground wire secure, that wouldn't stay tight. It would loosen enough to allow the ground to wire to loose connection as you drove down the road. Vibration, bouncing around, hit a pot hole etc, would cause the wire to loose ground & the vehicle would die. They would send a wrecker after it & the bouncing, vibration etc would move the wire around enough to make it touch again, just enough to ground.... & it would start again.

A situation like this comes to mind in your situation. A loose wire or a connection somewhere in a connector, that isn't tight or something. Then it just dies for no reason. You're going to need someone besides "the average bear" to find an issue like this. Someone who specializes in electrical issues.

Just my 2 cents....... Good luck.
 
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Old 06-06-19, 08:24 AM
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Thank you Dixie and Iceman, I really appreciate your input. I'm about to run a compression test and change out the plugs while I'm at it.. I'll double check my connections as well. As far as the distributor goes is doesn't have any excess wear or wobble in the shaft and the rotor turns the specified amount of degrees as far as advancement goes. I may pull the fuse buss in the engine compartment and turn it over and check the condition of the fuse connections I did see a little corrosion in one of the relay slots but it was getting power there, so we'll see if it's that simple.
 
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Old 06-06-19, 10:40 AM
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Okay to those good people whom have responded to this thread, thank you all! Now as I posted in my initial post I knew I was missing or overlooking something. That is true..I ASSUMED which we've all heard it broken down as applied to behavior and specifications.I just assumed I had good compression because of the speed and sound of the engine turning over.Because of having to rent and share a single vehicle and I didn't have immediate access to a compression gauge so I wasted time.and did a complete testing of both the fuel and electrical components. All of which you'll be happy to know are in FINE working order! Big Whoop.This is WRONG Wrong Wrong!!! and leads to misdiagnosis and waste time and money! I should know better... So what I did find thus far today is ZERO compression on number 1 cylinder haven't check the rest.. too heart sick and I have to call the wife at work and tell her "Bad news, Baby.. We need either a new motor or possibly just a couple of milled heads and gasket set at best or a new flipping car." That ougtha make her day! yes and I double checked the timing chain hoping against hope that maybe it just coincidentally managed to line up correctly the last time I check it. fat chance. Sorry for ranting and venting but I have NO idea of how I'm going to take care of my wife now. that rental has to go back and we don't have it right now to do an engine swap or even heads..I'm screwed... well thank for letting me vent I better make that call now...
 
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Old 06-06-19, 12:43 PM
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if compression is low on all cylinders would suspect timing chain also head gasket could affect multiple cylinders , valve problems usually are just going to affect single cylinders but this will not even start and died going down the road so not likely to be a head or valve problem they will usually still run just miss on the cylinders with low compression.
 
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