2003 Camry A/C Compressor Issue; not cooling
#1
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Thread Starter
2003 Camry A/C Compressor Issue; not cooling
I've had the Camry (4 Cyl, 2.4 L) to a local service center, where the A/C system was "basically" checked. The A/C system holds pressure with no sign of leaks, although the compressor clutch isn't engaging. I've come to the conclusion that either the compressor clutch is defective or I've got a wiring issue.
I'm relatively familiar with a Voltmeter/Multi-meter & would like to know if someone can tell me if there's a relatively straightforward way to check for voltage at the wiring harness connector, which connects to the clutch coil's wiring interface, to see if the compressor is actually getting power. The wiring harness connector, which connects to the clutch coil's wiring interface, consists of 3 wires (black/white, white/blue, & brown). If there's a device better than the Voltmeter for diagnosing, I'd like to know this as well.
Also, I've swapped out the Magnetic Clutch Relay with no success, although, I haven't checked the Relay socket to determine if it's getting power. Does the clutch coil connector get its power from the Relay or from another source?
Thanks
I'm relatively familiar with a Voltmeter/Multi-meter & would like to know if someone can tell me if there's a relatively straightforward way to check for voltage at the wiring harness connector, which connects to the clutch coil's wiring interface, to see if the compressor is actually getting power. The wiring harness connector, which connects to the clutch coil's wiring interface, consists of 3 wires (black/white, white/blue, & brown). If there's a device better than the Voltmeter for diagnosing, I'd like to know this as well.
Also, I've swapped out the Magnetic Clutch Relay with no success, although, I haven't checked the Relay socket to determine if it's getting power. Does the clutch coil connector get its power from the Relay or from another source?
Thanks
#4
The black/white wire on the compressor needs 12v+ to activate the clutch. That voltage comes from the MG/CLT relay. The MG relay needs 12v+ on the blue line probably as soon as the key is turned on. The green/yellow wire gets grounded to activate the relay.
When you turn the A/C on..... do any of the fans start immediately ?
When you turn the A/C on..... do any of the fans start immediately ?
#5
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Are you referring to the radiator cooling fans or the variable speed blower motor, which circulates heated as well as air-conditioned air within the Camry's cabin?
#6
Radiator fan. There are three fan relays shown in the diagram.
Not sure how many underhood fans there actually are.
Not sure how many underhood fans there actually are.
#7
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Thread Starter
There are 2 cooling fans. Should one or both of them begin running immediately when the A/C button is activated? If one is a condenser fan, I assumed it would start when the condenser was experiencing an overheating situation, but since the compressor isn't engaging, how can the condenser overheat? Does the condenser fan have to start in order for the compressor to engage?
#8
Does the condenser fan have to start in order for the compressor to engage?
What did it do before ?
If a fan comes on as soon as A/C is turned on.... then the problem is out under the hood. Not an ECM problem.
#9
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Thanks for replying. I believe my original post stated that a service center charged my system, which showed no leaks, meaning, the system had the required amount of refrigerant, so as to not enable a low pressure switch. At that time, they stated that "Your compressor is weak"; they too observed that the clutch wasn't engaging. I'm trying to rule out anything electrical, before I assume it's a clutch/compressor issue. Thanks again.
#10
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This car belongs to my stepson, so I'm uncertain of normal operating behavior. I drove the car today & let it idle in the driveway for 15 minutes. Both radiator cooling fans turned on, so I know they're functional, although when the A/C button is engaged, no cooling fan response occurs.
#11
they too observed that the clutch wasn't engaging
I am wondering if the clutch wasn't engaging how they could have charged the system and stated the compressor was weak. Also, if there are no leaks, why would the system need charging?
#12
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Thread Starter
I'm no HVAC expert, so what you're saying, is that if the compressor clutch isn't engaging, a car's A/C system can't be checked, because the compressor isn't moving the refrigerant? My understanding was that the system was evacuated, determined to need some refrigerant, refrigerant was added & the pressure held steady. Had the clutch engaged & the compressor begun to move the refrigerant, I believe there would have been a swing in pressure, but eventually, both low & high pressures would have leveled off. If I'm incorrect, please correct me.
#13
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Thread Starter
2003 Camry A/C not ice cold
After several days of diagnostics, I addressed several issues. I replaced a leaking radiator & replaced a leaking Schrader valve. The compressor now functions, but not efficiently.
Being that the vehicle is 16 years old, I began an A/C rebuild. I replaced the compressor, condenser, & receiver/drier (bundled with the condenser). The A/C system is substantially better, but not ice cold. I've been avoiding replacing the Expansion Valve & Evaporator Core, due to the dashboard location, but will replace the components, if anyone feels that these components might be contributing to the lack of "ice cold" incoming air.
I've also replaced the cabin air filter, located behind the glove box, but didn't require disassembly of the dashboard.
Thanks
Being that the vehicle is 16 years old, I began an A/C rebuild. I replaced the compressor, condenser, & receiver/drier (bundled with the condenser). The A/C system is substantially better, but not ice cold. I've been avoiding replacing the Expansion Valve & Evaporator Core, due to the dashboard location, but will replace the components, if anyone feels that these components might be contributing to the lack of "ice cold" incoming air.
I've also replaced the cabin air filter, located behind the glove box, but didn't require disassembly of the dashboard.
Thanks
#15
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Thread Starter
Yes. With the system completely discharged prior to my rebuild, I completed the rebuild. Then, I pulled a vacuum for a substantial amount of time, & then & only then, did I recharge the system, filling the system to capacity, based on the current temperature at the time of recharging.
Last edited by bobioni57; 08-05-19 at 09:26 AM. Reason: Forgotten information
#17
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Thread Starter
The total refrigerant added was 1.4lbs, which coincides with what the information under the hood states. The pressures I read were in line with the current temperature.