98 Honda CR-V lost engine power on highway

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Old 01-29-20, 12:20 PM
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98 Honda CR-V lost engine power on highway

Hello! As it says in the title, I was driving the car on the highway when the engine cut. Lights were still on, and the wheels kept carrying forward, but the engine was not running.

The car has been towed, and now I'm in the process of trying to get a general idea of the problem before deciding whether I can service it myself or take it to the shop (or if it's time for it to kick the bucket). I replaced the battery on the off chance that it was the alternator that was bad, but the engine still won't start (gives the vrrr vrrr vrrr of attempting to kick over the engine, so the starter motor is getting power, but it won't ignite). What should I start poking or prodding to diagnose this?
 
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01-29-20, 04:18 PM
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Any codes?
Fuel pump working? The pump relays fail sometimes
How many miles on the vehicle? When was the timing belt last changed?
 
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Old 01-29-20, 01:15 PM
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I'd probably start by doing a compression test. ......... and inspecting the plugs while they are out.
 
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Old 01-29-20, 01:59 PM
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Check timing belt for stripped teeth or breakage.

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Old 01-29-20, 03:52 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions!
 
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Old 01-29-20, 04:18 PM
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Any codes?
Fuel pump working? The pump relays fail sometimes
How many miles on the vehicle? When was the timing belt last changed?
 
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Old 01-29-20, 07:32 PM
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i just replaced a coil on one same issue, test for spark and rotation of rotor in distributor. seen hold down bolt fall out.
 
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Old 01-29-20, 08:35 PM
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When you tried to start it did you notice the engine turning over faster then normal?
 
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Old 01-30-20, 04:55 AM
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I replaced the battery on the off chance that it was the alternator that was bad, but the engine still won't start (gives the vrrr vrrr vrrr of attempting to kick over the engine, so the starter motor is getting power, but it won't ignite)
This statement gives me the impression that your saying its slow to turn over. (While it has nothing to do with the engine just quit running going down the road,) this sounds like a starter issue. Its dragging.

......when the engine cut. Lights were still on.......
This tells me its not a battery or alternator issue.

If the engine is turning over slowly.... hard to turn over, its not a timing belt/chain issue. Other members have asked for input on this so lets hear your answers first. I'm saying I may have interpreted your statement wrong when describing how the engine is turning over.
 
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Old 01-31-20, 06:10 AM
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1. ignition lock
2. ECM
3. not sure if 98 had chipped key or not.
 
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Old 02-03-20, 01:04 PM
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Heya! I'll try to get to all of these (haven't had a chance to run a compression test yet, trying to see if my neighbor has the tester).

Any codes?
Fuel pump working? The pump relays fail sometimes
How many miles on the vehicle? When was the timing belt last changed?
No codes. I can add fuel pump to list of things to check, although the line just got replaced so I'd be surprised if they didn't notice anything on casual inspection while they were doing that. Miles is somewhere around ~200k and it is due for a timing belt service, it's just old enough at this point that it will probably get sold if that's the case though.

i just replaced a coil on one same issue, test for spark and rotation of rotor in distributor. seen hold down bolt fall out.
Thanks for the suggestion, I'll give it a look.

When you tried to start it did you notice the engine turning over faster then normal?
Once I had replaced the battery, no, engine start sounded pretty much the same as always (but without actually turning over, although I presume your question is asking if the ignition attempts were cycling faster than usual).

1. ignition lock
2. ECM
3. not sure if 98 had chipped key or not.
I doubt it was 1, unless the ignition lock can stop the car in the middle of the highway. I could look into 2, although I don't know how to diagnose an ECM. I'm curious about 3, could you digress a bit more on that?
 
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Old 08-02-20, 11:30 AM
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months-later followup

Hey y'all, takes me a while to get to these things, not that you're waiting with bated breath or anything . I've gotten around to testing a couple of things:

1. One of the spark plugs was bad, so I ended up replacing them all since they're cheap. No change, though.
2. On an engine pressure test, one of the chambers tested pretty low (like 90s), the rest were about where they're evidently supposed to be.
3. I didn't have an adapter to test the fuel pump with, so I tested it the awful and dangerous way (pop the nut around the fuel filter and turn ignition to ON so I could see it squirt out with the pre-ignition). The fuel pump does push fuel (at least for the pre-ignition sequence, I don't know if there's another circuit for engine crank I should be testing), so it's not the pump itself, at least.

I'll try to test the distributor next, I found a good video for it and should have the tools for it.I don't know if this gives anyone some ideas for next steps, but I pre-appreciate it if it does

(EDIT TO ADD: recap on the symptoms just to keep them fresh in the brain:

1. Engine stopped on the highway. Wheels still turned freely so no braking from the engine.
2. After that, any attempt to ignite the engine just cranks without turning over. The engine cranking sounds perfectly normal--usual speed, usual volume, no weird clicks or anything. The symptoms are actually identical to this video, which does make me very inclined to test distributor next: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg)
 
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Old 08-04-20, 04:54 AM
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While you're working on it, if you don't know how many miles are on it, you should replace the timing belt; if it has a timing belt-driven water pump, do it too. That is an interference (aka "valve-bender") engine.

A couple of the earlier posters asked questions that were geared towards seeing if you might have a busted belt. On that era Honda busted timing belt can be fatal - bent valves requiring replacement of head. Used to see it a lot before auto makers started going back to chains.
 
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Old 08-09-20, 09:48 AM
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Yeah I know the history of this car pretty well so I'm actually pretty sure timing belt is due, but that's probably not going to be my job ^.^. Just wanna get her running first and then go from there
 
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Old 08-09-20, 10:21 AM
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would just do basic checks for spark, injector pulse , and look at compression again if you have a low cylinder probably better look at timing belt marks the compression should probably be 130 plus on all cylinders if you have one at 90 and you sure your gauge is working might try adding a little oil to see if it comes up otherwise would probably go straight to the timing belt.
 
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