New Battery, but Minivan Wonít Start

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Old 01-02-21, 08:51 AM
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New Battery, but Minivan Wonít Start

2013 Town & Country minivan, went and bought a new battery at the local store because it was getting old and the van wasnít starting. The next day it wonít start, but I am able to jumpstart with my other car. I watched a YouTube video about checking the alternator with a multimeter, and my numbers came back ok (over 14). The starter cranks, but doesnít catch and start the engine if the car is cold. I replaced the negative battery terminal because it wasnít clamping very tight, and added a shim to the positive one due to the same clamping issue. Engine still wonít start cold, but if I jump it and drive around a bit, it will restart if it is still warm, but not if I wait a Couple of hours and it gets cold. Any ideas of what else to check?
 
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Old 01-02-21, 09:38 AM
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Sounds like you got a bad battery.

I wouldnt think its something draining the battery in that short time frame (under two hours). It'd really have to be a pretty heavy usage. I'd get a multi-meter & start checking from the battery outward. But I think the main concern is a bad/shorted battery. Check the voltage on the battery posts before you jump it, after you jump it & after you drive it, then every 30 minutes.

My question is why did you change batteries? Same issue?
 
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Old 01-02-21, 03:03 PM
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It has been a weird day....I went out to try and start it from the battery, and it turns over, but didnít actually fire up. I let it turn over for about 8 seconds before stopping, and then when I tried again, it fired right up. I let it run for 2 minutes, then tried again right away and it wouldnít start.

I went to go jump it and that took a while too. Eventually my wife wiggled the fuse box under the hood and it started up off of the jump start from our Honda CRV. (Not sure if that was just a timing issue with the cables/battery charge from the CRV, or if it really had anything to do with wiggling the fuses/fuse box).

Anyway, here are the readings from the multi-meter:

cold: 12.34
running after jumpstart: 14.66
running with lights/radio/heat on: 14.61
30 minutes after shutting off: 12.7
60 minutes after shutting off: 12.69


Could it be something with a fuse in the fuse box? Would taking it in to have any codes read be useful? No error lights are on at the moment.
 

Last edited by haytrain; 01-02-21 at 03:40 PM.
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Old 01-02-21, 03:45 PM
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would either suspect a draw on the system or a bad battery you can continue to monitor voltage but if it keeps dropping would start it up and let it recharge and then disconnect the battery and see if it stays up a charged battery should remain around 12.7 or higher.
 
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Old 01-02-21, 04:26 PM
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Are you sure you have the correct size battery for your car's engine. What is the cold cranking amp rating of new and old batteries? Where are you connecting the jumper cables on the minivan?
 
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Old 01-02-21, 04:40 PM
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running with lights/radio/heat on: 14.61

This tells me the alternator is fine. You can pretty much disregard the alternator in your troubleshooting.
 
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Old 01-02-21, 09:55 PM
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I suspect a bad ground somewhere. There's plenty of places to check. Here's some tips for that - https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/B...-and-Diagnosis and https://www.onallcylinders.com/2019/...ground-issues/

If not a bad ground that should be grounded then something seems to be grounded that likely shouldn't. I've seen similar problems crop up as after effects of a bad sound system install or mistakes made to add aftermarket parts involving modifying the electrical system. Was there any mods made to sneak in a wire for something like a power cap or anything? Could be a previous owner did something that is only now revealing itself.
 
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Old 01-03-21, 04:31 PM
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Check the label on the battery to find out when the battery was manufactured. Could it have been sitting on the store shelf for many months?

Can you measure the voltage at the battery terminals at the moment someone else turns the key to start the car?
 
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Old 01-04-21, 01:11 AM
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I replaced the negative battery terminal because it wasnít clamping very tight, and added a shim to the positive one due to the same clamping issue
.

I went out to try and start it from the battery, and it turns over, but didnít actually fire up
I let it turn over for about 8 seconds before stopping, and then when I tried again, it fired right up
I let it run for 2 minutes, then tried again right away and it wouldnít start.
my wife wiggled the fuse box under the hood and it started up off of the jump
The issues you are describing just dont add up to a bad battery, a fresh battery will easily crank a hot or cold car. You have some wiring issues going on!
 
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Old 01-04-21, 06:50 PM
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I am thinking itís something other than the battery too now. I took it back to the place I bought the battery and they confirmed the battery, alternator, and starter all are good. I popped the fuse box under the hood and was just looking around in there, and making sure everything was pushed in all the way, and noticed that the one labeled PCM Relay clicked when I pushed down on it. I went to try starting and it fired right up. That could just be a coincidence, but Iím wondering if it has to do with some internal control/board instead of the battery, because it seems so sporadic.

I tried to start this morning cold, and it turns over, and sputters and coughs, and then I gave pushed down on the gas Pedal as it was coughing, and it fired up. Even after running straight for 45 minutes, it did the same thing when I shut it off for 4 minutes to add more gas at the station. Is it possible that it could be an issue with the PCM relay or TIPM relay, based on what I am describing? Sounds like this happens quite a bit with Chrysler vehicles...
 
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Old 01-05-21, 01:41 AM
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Weak spark.... Spark plugs.... Low fuel pressure.... Bad sensor input to pcm like skewed coolant temperature sensor. Leaking injectors? Try holding gas pedal to the floor see if it helps. Spray carb cleaner into intake see if it helps starting. How do your plugs look. Do you have a scan tool.
 
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Old 01-05-21, 02:21 AM
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have read about issues with the tipm module causing the fuel pump not to turn on or even stay on and draining the battery so you may have an issue with it, but really would need to do some testing and find out why its not starting for sure you may want to see a shop for testing.
 
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Old 01-05-21, 06:48 AM
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Tipm can cause stalling and pump to run all the time. Can cause other problems. I am not to convinced your problem is related to the tipm. Since it happens cold engine only. The tests I described would isolate to fuel delivery system. Seen plugs do this also. Seen week pump do this also. I would take to a ase certified shop and pay for one hour of diagnostic time.
 
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Old 01-11-21, 07:35 AM
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As follow-up, turns out it was the TIPM. I found a company called Vertical Visions that sells a bypass that you plug into the TIPM fusebox area and once I did that, it started right up and I haven't had any of the issues over the past 5 days. Thanks to all who helped troubleshoot this!
 
 

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