Extracting broken spark plug shell from engine: urgent
2013 Subaru Legacy, 2.5L, 4 Cylinders, CVT. My son over torqued the spark plug when replacing spark plug. As a result, the metal thread portion broke and stuck in the spark plug hole. As you can see in the picture, the one on the left is good one and the one on the right is broken one. Does anyone have any suggestion of taking it out other than take the head off the engine? Thanks in advance!
My first thought, gingerly because you don't want to make things worse, is a broken bolt extractor. Definitely not my first choice in most cases, but being new threads, with no heat or corrosion yet in play, I'm pretty sure that's where I would start.
Soak the threads for an hour with penetrating oil or WD-40.
Use dry ice to chill the threaded core so it contracts.
Get a 'Tap-Out' bit,
If you don't have an impact wrench, you'll need a breaker bar, a 2' section of pipe, and a 2x4.
Slide the pipe over the breaker bar for leverage, snug up the Tap-Out, and use the 2x4 to whack the end of the pipe like you're hitting a grand slam. You need t to break ALL of the threads free in one shot.
If you apply force slowly, the Tap-Out expands the threaded core and pushes it tighter into the block so it binds and sticks. One sharp whack will break the threads free, then you then should be able to remove the threaded core easily.
More than likely..... the threaded portion will not be bound in the head.
You'll need to use bolt extractor. You won't need to drill which can be the difficult part.
The video shows how to use one. You can get them at auto parts stores. Extractor video
Just thinking to myself...... you may not even need an extractor. Dig thru your supply of screwdrivers. Try to find one with a tapered head like in the picture. You want to find one that just fits into the broken spark plug. Push it into the shell and see if it turns. If the screwdriver slips..... give it a gentle tap. If it still slips you'll need an extractor.
And remember that any filings you make will be in the cylinder, scoring the piston walls. Might want to make generous use of a magnet extension to pick up any stray bits that fall into the cylinder.
Not proud to admit it, but i've done this too. Fortunately it stays with you as a "how not to do it" lesson. The Easy Out in post #3 from Hal_S worked for me.
Thanks all. I bought a set of screw extractor like Hal_S mentioned above and just use hand to take it off. I am lucky that the broken spark plug is new and I didn't even use penetrating oil. Thanks again.
The license plate renewal on my 2001 Subaru comes every December, and where I live we have emissions testing. Every year since I've owned this car, when the autumn weather first turns cold and wet, I get a (O2 sensor) CEL on my Subaru. I do all the auto maintenance I'm equipped to (both tool-wise and skill-wise) so the first time this happened I had hoped to change the sensor myself but I couldn't manage to break it loose. But to my amazement, the CEL light went out in time for me to get to the testing station and pass emissions in time to renew my.
I've also discovered since then that I can do my emissions testing as much as 90 days before renewal is due. So now I make a point to get my emissions testing done as soon as I can remember in October, which is usually before it gets cold and wet.
Problem solved except that as the years go by and the miles add up, my gas mileage also decays slightly. Now I'm getting 2 or 3 mpg less than when I first bought it (~80k miles ago), and I can't help but wonder if I might get some of that back with a new O2 sensor.
I should note here that overall it runs well enough but idle can on occasion be a bit erratic and a handful of times it has stumbled when I got heavy-footed from a standing-start. But still, for a car with 220k on the clock, I am nowhere near thinking it's ready for the scrap heap.
All that to get to this.
Question #1:
If it were you, would you let it ride as long as the car passed emissions and fuel economy wasn't truly horrible, or would you bite the bullet and replace the sensor? Or something else?
Question #2:
How do you deal with a frozen O2 sensor? I should note I didn't get especially aggressive when I tried to remove this one. I'd left is soaking overnight in PB Blaster but I only used an open-end wrench, not one of those sockets with the cut-out to avoid the sensor wire. And although I twisted as hard as I could, I didn't try putting a cheater bar on the wrench for fear of twisting the sensor in half (can that even happen?) or rounding off the hex surfaces.
So what 'tricks' do the pros use for changing stubborn sensors? If I get the socket that's custom-made for the job, is there a risk of destroying the sensor before it breaks free (after which I'm facing an even bigger repair bill than just replacing the sensor)?
I ask this now because I've got most of a year before I'm due testing again, so I've got a log of cushion if I were to try DIY-ing it now.
And for obvious reasons I'd sooner not go ahead and cut the sensor wires and just go for it with a 'regular' socket until I know I can get the cussed thing out.
So any advice, comments and jeers are welcome.
[h3]Hello:[/h3]2018 Vibe with low-mileage
Recently, I noticed the Dash storage compartment does not shut and occasionally its contents spilling out on passenger's floor. I always fill its contents half-filled, then there is not causing 'too much papers' in the dash storage compartment.
Any help on this issue would be truly appreciated.
Thanks,