'68 Corvette ring job
#1
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Thread Starter
'68 Corvette ring job
My 68 vette needs to have some of the piston rings replaced. I realize this is a major repair job. Any idea what a reasonable cost for this type of repair should run?
#2
Member
Do you know yet what work will be done? engine in or out? Just replace rings without hone/bore, hone only, or bore? What size engine?
There will be other problems found when you/mechanic get inside of the engine.
But to answer your question, to do it correctly with long-term fix should cost approx $6K. Just replacing the rings will cost $2500 or so. There will be large differences in estimates based on the shop doing the work. I haven't priced this work recently though, someone with more current experience than I may have updated costs.
There will be other problems found when you/mechanic get inside of the engine.
But to answer your question, to do it correctly with long-term fix should cost approx $6K. Just replacing the rings will cost $2500 or so. There will be large differences in estimates based on the shop doing the work. I haven't priced this work recently though, someone with more current experience than I may have updated costs.
greggome
voted this post useful.
#3
would expect a shop would do a complete rebuild versus just changing rings, its an old car and easy to work on and parts are not even going to likely cost much if its a 327 most of it will be labor and machine shop and finding a shop willing to do the work, many shops just want to replace it with a remanufactured or crate engine. but being a classic car you probably want to keep it original and have the engine rebuilt assuming its still correct. but being 50 years old it may not be so a crate engine could be an option in that case.
#4
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Thread Starter
its a 327 that was rebuilt MANY years ago and has about 50 k miles on the rebuild. I have run compression tests which were good then went to a leak down test and it appears to have air coming through the oil spout when compressed air is applied to a cylinder. Strange thing is the car still runs well and accelerate without a gripe when I punch it. Spark plugs a black and carbon coated but no oil on the electrodes but oil on the plug threads. wouldn't have suspected a thing if it weren't for the exhaust smoke. I'm Due to take it to the shop in 2 days but I was hoping to get a feel for a ball park cost before I got there. If its too expensive I might give it a try and pull the engine myself.
#5
Member
Do you know if the cylinders were bored during the last rebuild? It would be good to know when you talk to the mechanic, though he will find out when he measures cylinder diameter.
Do your cylinders have sleeves?
What color is the smoke? You may just be running rich vice needing rebuild.
Oil on the plug threads could be due to bad valve stem seals, not hard to replace.
Do your cylinders have sleeves?
What color is the smoke? You may just be running rich vice needing rebuild.
Oil on the plug threads could be due to bad valve stem seals, not hard to replace.
#6
Member
Thread Starter
The cylinders were bored , not sleeved, smoke is light grey (not white). At idle you can see a little smoke but under hard acceleration it pretty noticeable though not the bluish color smoke they seem to say is oil burning. Replaced spark plugs and took it out for a brisk run and didnt notice much of any smoke but I would imagine as the plugs start to get dirty again it will return.
#7
how much oil is it using also is it an automatic transmission its possible a leaking modulator would allow transmission fluid into the engine and cause it to smoke also.
a shop will likely want to go through the engine anyway so its probably going to be an expensive repair atleast for labor if there is no major wear they may get by with minimal parts, but you really wont know until its taken apart and checked for wear.
a shop will likely want to go through the engine anyway so its probably going to be an expensive repair atleast for labor if there is no major wear they may get by with minimal parts, but you really wont know until its taken apart and checked for wear.
#8
Member
Oil on the spark plug threads would point to a valve cover leak, easy fix. It does sound like the engine is running too rich, carb issue???
#9
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Thread Starter
Mine is a manual transmission. Running a recently rebuilt Rochester Q jet carb and have adjusted the fuel idle mixture per manual recommendations.
#10
Member
What were the compression readings on all the cylinders. If you had over 120 on all of them and less than 20 lbs variation I would hesitate to tear it down to check the condition.
Are you driving it regularly or is it more of a good weather only car?
That Quadrajet is OEM on that engine isn't it - with the big secondaries?
Are you driving it regularly or is it more of a good weather only car?
That Quadrajet is OEM on that engine isn't it - with the big secondaries?
#11
Member
Thread Starter
compression test on all cylinders was 150 give or take 5 LBS. Car is driven a few times per month. Q jet is OEM and yes its got large secondaries.
#12
Member
I wouldn't tear that down. All you would do is spend money on it. Seal off the valve covers and keep track of how much oil you're losing.
#13
Member
I agree with marbobj. It sounds like you are just rich. I wouldn't assume a rebuilt carb is not faulty.