I give up. Gonna trade in my car for a cheap one.
#1
Member
Thread Starter
I give up. Gonna trade in my car for a cheap one.
So after 3.5 years of dealing with all kinds of issues, I am giving up on this car and going to trade it in for a cheap one.
Usually people trade in an older or cheaper car to get some discount/credit towards buying a newer or more expensive car. In my situation, I'm doing the opposite. My car is valued at around 14K (probably a couple thousand less even) but I'm looking to trade it in for an older and cheaper car valued at around 2 to 3k.
The problem is that my current car is unresolved "issues". I don't know exactly what the issues are because that's what I've been asking and trying to figure out for 3 years and nobody could figure it out. It's a 2013 VW Scirocco R tuned with APR Stage 2+ that I bought in 2017 at 54k km. It's now at 75k km and I'm looking to trade it in for a 2007-2010 Kia Morning or similar cheap ass car like that since they are very cheap in my country and affordable. I already have a 2001 Matiz that I bought for 950 bucks in 2018 and still works fine for me today. I really loved this Scirocco R and would keep it for 10 more years if I could because I love it. But with the tuning issues and/or related to it, IDK and nobody really knows what is wrong with it. Everyone just tells me probably change the turbo, probably change the transmission, probably rebuild the engine, or it might just be a clogged cat or leak or loose seals. I don't want to know anymore. I just want to get rid of it.
I've never traded in a car like this before so how does it work? I know used car dealers will fleece me when I trade it in and I'm prepared to get pennies back for it, especially since it has "unresolved issues" that I am not going to tell them what is wrong with it....they can figure it out themselves because I've tried for 3 years to figure it out and nobody could help me.
So if I find a Matiz or Morning (pre 2010 with about 70k - 90 k km) valued at around 2 to 3k dollars, do I trade in my current car and then they will send whatever extra cash they are willing to give me for the car? If I can get a Morning and 5 grand, I'd take it. But what should I expect?
If they took the car in for trade in and then later on found out serious problems with the car, could they get back at me and say I owe them money or something for the repairs?
Usually people trade in an older or cheaper car to get some discount/credit towards buying a newer or more expensive car. In my situation, I'm doing the opposite. My car is valued at around 14K (probably a couple thousand less even) but I'm looking to trade it in for an older and cheaper car valued at around 2 to 3k.
The problem is that my current car is unresolved "issues". I don't know exactly what the issues are because that's what I've been asking and trying to figure out for 3 years and nobody could figure it out. It's a 2013 VW Scirocco R tuned with APR Stage 2+ that I bought in 2017 at 54k km. It's now at 75k km and I'm looking to trade it in for a 2007-2010 Kia Morning or similar cheap ass car like that since they are very cheap in my country and affordable. I already have a 2001 Matiz that I bought for 950 bucks in 2018 and still works fine for me today. I really loved this Scirocco R and would keep it for 10 more years if I could because I love it. But with the tuning issues and/or related to it, IDK and nobody really knows what is wrong with it. Everyone just tells me probably change the turbo, probably change the transmission, probably rebuild the engine, or it might just be a clogged cat or leak or loose seals. I don't want to know anymore. I just want to get rid of it.
I've never traded in a car like this before so how does it work? I know used car dealers will fleece me when I trade it in and I'm prepared to get pennies back for it, especially since it has "unresolved issues" that I am not going to tell them what is wrong with it....they can figure it out themselves because I've tried for 3 years to figure it out and nobody could help me.
So if I find a Matiz or Morning (pre 2010 with about 70k - 90 k km) valued at around 2 to 3k dollars, do I trade in my current car and then they will send whatever extra cash they are willing to give me for the car? If I can get a Morning and 5 grand, I'd take it. But what should I expect?
If they took the car in for trade in and then later on found out serious problems with the car, could they get back at me and say I owe them money or something for the repairs?
Top Answer
06-22-21, 06:41 AM
OP has heavily street modded vehicle with many issues. Maybe, it shouldn't have been done to start with.
#2
So if I find a Matiz or Morning (pre 2010 with about 70k - 90 k km) valued at around 2 to 3k dollars, do I trade in my current car and then they will send whatever extra cash they are willing to give me for the car? If I can get a Morning and 5 grand, I'd take it. But what should I expect?
Yes
If they took the car in for trade in and then later on found out serious problems with the car, could they get back at me and say I owe them money or something for the repairs?
No, but don't lie, and provide full disclosure. Such sales are final.
Yes
If they took the car in for trade in and then later on found out serious problems with the car, could they get back at me and say I owe them money or something for the repairs?
No, but don't lie, and provide full disclosure. Such sales are final.
guy293482
voted this post useful.
#3
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Thread Starter
thanks. I've been bit more reading on this topic and sounds like some of these dealerships can buy cars with problems because some of them sell it to wholesale for auction or can repair in their own shops....the truth is i don't know what is wrong with the car LOL. That has been the whole issue for 3 years. I've gotten so many different answers and in the end can just say it has to do with tuning issue. So sad...i love this car...i'm really in dumpster now. I loved this car when it drove fine....idk why it's just lost acceleration power and there's a loud whooshing air noise that makes it incredibly hard to get to 60 km/h from a redlight. Cleared the codes after visiting the shop today and no codes came back.
#4
Member
So did you ever even attempt to drop the exhaust and look for a blockage? That's what all the info you've described is pointing to. Clearing codes is no way to troubleshoot, you've clearly got an airflow issue.
guy293482
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#5
OP has heavily street modded vehicle with many issues. Maybe, it shouldn't have been done to start with.
CircuitBreaker,
guy293482
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#6
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Thread Starter
tomf63: unfortunately again such a seemingly simple procedure is not here. I asked and they said it would cost me about $150-200 just to remove it and take a look inside and put it back on + 6 hours for me to drive there and all the gas and road toll fees and basically an entire day all for the possibility that it might not even be the issue. The mechanic even thinks that my cat is not real. He says it's just shaped like a cat but there might be nothing inside it.
So all this guessing sucks and I don't want to waste any more money on these mechanic's guesses. I've been taken for a long ride and done a lot of things and nothing has made it better so I am doubtful anything more I do is going to make any difference. All they are going to say in the end is that I need a new turbo or maybe i have transmission failure or engine failure. Another mechanic told me now after dealing with him for 2 months that he thinks my turbo is dying. He says boost requested at 1500 but actual boost only reaches around 1200.
I don't know how even a dying turbo could cause a car to struggle to just drive 60 km/h. I don't think it's a turbo failure. A different mechanic told me he doesn't think it's my turbo dying lol. So I can't just spend 3k to order a new turbo, have them install it and hope my issue is resolved. I'll just keep putting more money into a car I probably should have sold a long time ago
Just 5 months ago I got brand new rotors/discs (4) and brake pads (brembo) for the car along with some other minor maintenance all spent about 2.4 grand. Why am I putting more money into this car I ask myself if I am just going to trade it in for a cheap 1.0L 69 hp matiz or morning?
I really appreciate all your kindness and responses. This forum has always been one of the best for me because other places I post, I usually get condescending comments and personal attacks. I don't know why ppl do that when all we are doing is trying to ask for advice about car issues (and it always seems to turn into a character cross examination and judgment). But you guys have always been very helpful and respectful, thank you for that.
ukbryk: yes, I agree. I should have known to stay away from anything that says "tuned". Tuned is just a pseudonym for "BIG ASS PROBLEMS". The more learned about the tuning community, the more I realized that people really have no idea what they are doing. They think they do but they don't really. Everyone has their own opinions how what makes a car better or more efficient etc., but I realize that most tuners only live by the motto like "ride hard and die young" kinda perspective. I'm not that kinda person. Just another lesson learned in life for me I guess.
So all this guessing sucks and I don't want to waste any more money on these mechanic's guesses. I've been taken for a long ride and done a lot of things and nothing has made it better so I am doubtful anything more I do is going to make any difference. All they are going to say in the end is that I need a new turbo or maybe i have transmission failure or engine failure. Another mechanic told me now after dealing with him for 2 months that he thinks my turbo is dying. He says boost requested at 1500 but actual boost only reaches around 1200.
I don't know how even a dying turbo could cause a car to struggle to just drive 60 km/h. I don't think it's a turbo failure. A different mechanic told me he doesn't think it's my turbo dying lol. So I can't just spend 3k to order a new turbo, have them install it and hope my issue is resolved. I'll just keep putting more money into a car I probably should have sold a long time ago
Just 5 months ago I got brand new rotors/discs (4) and brake pads (brembo) for the car along with some other minor maintenance all spent about 2.4 grand. Why am I putting more money into this car I ask myself if I am just going to trade it in for a cheap 1.0L 69 hp matiz or morning?
I really appreciate all your kindness and responses. This forum has always been one of the best for me because other places I post, I usually get condescending comments and personal attacks. I don't know why ppl do that when all we are doing is trying to ask for advice about car issues (and it always seems to turn into a character cross examination and judgment). But you guys have always been very helpful and respectful, thank you for that.
ukbryk: yes, I agree. I should have known to stay away from anything that says "tuned". Tuned is just a pseudonym for "BIG ASS PROBLEMS". The more learned about the tuning community, the more I realized that people really have no idea what they are doing. They think they do but they don't really. Everyone has their own opinions how what makes a car better or more efficient etc., but I realize that most tuners only live by the motto like "ride hard and die young" kinda perspective. I'm not that kinda person. Just another lesson learned in life for me I guess.
#7
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Thread Starter
tomf63: sorry I wanted to add more that I left out. If the mechanic thinks my cat is not even a real cat and nothing is inside, then it couldn't be a blocked airflow issue right? If there is no cat in my cat shaped down pipe, then wouldn't it be the opposite? I'd have lots of airflow so it couldn't be some kind of exhaust restriction? I even asked if he can just remove my 02 sensor and he said no because it's illegal to drive around without or it makes a loud noise and I told him I know it makes a loud noise lol but I just wanted him to remove the 02 sensor so i can drive it for a couple minutes and see how it feels if there is any difference.
I also noticed in my downpipe there is only 1 o2 sensor and it comes AFTER the cat (if it's even a real cat). I didn't see any other o2 sensor that is BEFORE the cat. He also told me that my car was advertised as APR Stage 2 but my downpipe is not APR or it's some fake customize downpipe....the entire thing is welded until the mufflers so he was saying it's very difficult to remove it.
I still have my appointment set up this saturday at 2pm at another tuning shop so I will probably just go there as my last effort just to see what they can do. The car really struggles to accelerate up to 60 km/h. It doesn't struggle so much after it's up to speed but it's very bad from 0 to 60 km/h....I don't floor it as I shouldn't have to just to get up to 60 km/h but at 2000 rpm, the car stumbles hesistates, boost needle goes high and loud air whooshing noise just to get to 60 km/h. I feel afraid to push it any harder because the boost pressure seems very high for such low speed and paranoid that I might blow something.
I didn't upload everything but over the past months or years I did upload some video clips of my issues I could never figure out and I assume they are all related somehow and it got worse over the 3 years.
If anyone just wanted to take a look at them the videos are here:
https://www.youtube.com/user/help4rabbit
(just a youtube channel I made to upload video clips when I need to ask for help about things)...it wasn't actually meant to be used for youtube videos but I was using youtube more as a "video hosting site" so I can make a link and give it to mechanics or other people on forums to see my video clips.
I also noticed in my downpipe there is only 1 o2 sensor and it comes AFTER the cat (if it's even a real cat). I didn't see any other o2 sensor that is BEFORE the cat. He also told me that my car was advertised as APR Stage 2 but my downpipe is not APR or it's some fake customize downpipe....the entire thing is welded until the mufflers so he was saying it's very difficult to remove it.
I still have my appointment set up this saturday at 2pm at another tuning shop so I will probably just go there as my last effort just to see what they can do. The car really struggles to accelerate up to 60 km/h. It doesn't struggle so much after it's up to speed but it's very bad from 0 to 60 km/h....I don't floor it as I shouldn't have to just to get up to 60 km/h but at 2000 rpm, the car stumbles hesistates, boost needle goes high and loud air whooshing noise just to get to 60 km/h. I feel afraid to push it any harder because the boost pressure seems very high for such low speed and paranoid that I might blow something.
I didn't upload everything but over the past months or years I did upload some video clips of my issues I could never figure out and I assume they are all related somehow and it got worse over the 3 years.
If anyone just wanted to take a look at them the videos are here:
https://www.youtube.com/user/help4rabbit
(just a youtube channel I made to upload video clips when I need to ask for help about things)...it wasn't actually meant to be used for youtube videos but I was using youtube more as a "video hosting site" so I can make a link and give it to mechanics or other people on forums to see my video clips.
Last edited by guy293482; 06-22-21 at 08:44 AM. Reason: forgot to add something
#8
car would of never of passed emission test without a cat not even once, but your keep going to shops that are not fixing the issue so would probably trade it off also if thats who you have to rely on, would still try calling an exhaust shop if one is near you they should be able to pressure test the cat torch a small hole install a gauge start the engine and snap the throttle a couple of times weld the hole back up whole process only takes like 10 minutes and they can tell you without removing anything.
guy293482
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#9
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the car stumbles hesistates, boost needle goes high and loud air whooshing noise
Your turbo is fine, you have a restriction somewhere.
guy293482
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#10
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Thread Starter
alan73: yes you are right the car would never pass emission if I didn't have a cat. I only passed it because the mechanic knew someone who could help me pass it by paying $300 which I did and got it passed. I don't know how or what he did but left the car with them and they gave it back to me and said passed but that's when I noticed the acceleration was even worse now after handing it over to them. It wasn't this bad before even though acceleration was progressively getting worse before then. But after getting the car back from them, it was significantly worse to the point of dangerous to drive now so something must've happened when they took my car.
2 years ago when I did the emissions test, I barely passed it. It was legit test. The guys at the center told me they'd let my car run a little longer and by doing so was able to get the numbers to pass. Something about letting the car idle longer (I assume to warm up the engine/cat for better efficiency/burn off) improves the emissions vs testing it cold just starting up. So based on that info, I assume that my cat is indeed a real aftermarket/tuner cat and not just a shape of a cat that is empty inside like the mechanic thinks it might be.
Yes, you are right about exhaust pressure testing....I understand what you mean. Doesn't seem like it would be too big of an issue to do that but here in this country (Korea), it's PITA. IDK. They can't do any simple tests like I see and hear all over youtube in American mechanic shops. Everytime I ask or suggest things, they say they don't have the ability to do it or don't have the tools or they aren't allowed to do it etc. It's frustrating as hell.
2 years ago when I did the emissions test, I barely passed it. It was legit test. The guys at the center told me they'd let my car run a little longer and by doing so was able to get the numbers to pass. Something about letting the car idle longer (I assume to warm up the engine/cat for better efficiency/burn off) improves the emissions vs testing it cold just starting up. So based on that info, I assume that my cat is indeed a real aftermarket/tuner cat and not just a shape of a cat that is empty inside like the mechanic thinks it might be.
Yes, you are right about exhaust pressure testing....I understand what you mean. Doesn't seem like it would be too big of an issue to do that but here in this country (Korea), it's PITA. IDK. They can't do any simple tests like I see and hear all over youtube in American mechanic shops. Everytime I ask or suggest things, they say they don't have the ability to do it or don't have the tools or they aren't allowed to do it etc. It's frustrating as hell.
#11
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Thread Starter
tomf63: I really hope you are right! Where are the possible locations for restrictions? Cat, mufflers, air intake, anywhere else?
Could any potential issue with the transmission / clutch also create any of the symptoms I mentioned? My other car had it's transmission slip and go couple years back (but that was covered by a recall). I remember that the engine would rev very high but I'd get no power so that was distinctly the transmission. This one the RPMs do not rev high but I still get very low power even though I should get plenty of power at just 1500-2000 rpm. I did get a transmission clutch fault code:
18149 : Clutch Pressure Adaptation - P1741 - 002 - Limit Reached and it kept coming back 2 or 3 times more.
But the mechanic guy used my VCDS and he did some kind of "clutch adaptation" and I guess it resets something. I drove it again and same driveability issue...low acceleration at low speeds but high boost and air whooshing sound. But when he was reversing it and putting into drive in the shop driveway, the car made a loud grinding noise for about 3 seconds and then just shut off. FK! I swear I thought my transmission just broke. He turned it on again and it struggled sometimes to turn on but he drove it again a few times reverse and forward , reverse and forward and one more time it made that loud grinding noise and engine shut off and i saw some light smoke come out from the hood and had a burnt smell but it was very little. He didn't seem to know or was certain. He test drove it for me some more around the block and came back. After that it was fine. The clutch code hasn't appeared again and I drove it home with no clutch code but still with the low acceleration power, high boost, stumbling/hesitating from 0 km to 40 km/h struggles to get to 60 km/h....then drives better at higher speeds 80 km/h+ (but still lacks acceleration power).
Could any potential issue with the transmission / clutch also create any of the symptoms I mentioned? My other car had it's transmission slip and go couple years back (but that was covered by a recall). I remember that the engine would rev very high but I'd get no power so that was distinctly the transmission. This one the RPMs do not rev high but I still get very low power even though I should get plenty of power at just 1500-2000 rpm. I did get a transmission clutch fault code:
18149 : Clutch Pressure Adaptation - P1741 - 002 - Limit Reached and it kept coming back 2 or 3 times more.
But the mechanic guy used my VCDS and he did some kind of "clutch adaptation" and I guess it resets something. I drove it again and same driveability issue...low acceleration at low speeds but high boost and air whooshing sound. But when he was reversing it and putting into drive in the shop driveway, the car made a loud grinding noise for about 3 seconds and then just shut off. FK! I swear I thought my transmission just broke. He turned it on again and it struggled sometimes to turn on but he drove it again a few times reverse and forward , reverse and forward and one more time it made that loud grinding noise and engine shut off and i saw some light smoke come out from the hood and had a burnt smell but it was very little. He didn't seem to know or was certain. He test drove it for me some more around the block and came back. After that it was fine. The clutch code hasn't appeared again and I drove it home with no clutch code but still with the low acceleration power, high boost, stumbling/hesitating from 0 km to 40 km/h struggles to get to 60 km/h....then drives better at higher speeds 80 km/h+ (but still lacks acceleration power).
#12
Member
I have been driving Audi’s with turbos for 30 years. Very similar cars. Also ones that have been tuned. I would never have been able to survive them without a dependable independent Audi specialist. And by spending a lot of hours DIY. Also reading Audi repair blogs.
Your descriptions tell me you are not knowledgeable in these areas. It also sounds like you have not been working with a shop that specializes in your model car, especially one that regularly work on tuned ones.
Yes, it would be an excellent car if the problems were resolved. If you are not willing to find and work with such a shop you should sell and move on. Someone who does not understand the vehicle and does not have a reputable and competent specialist should not own such a vehicle. Not meant to be nasty, just realistic.
Possibly you you could sell it as a project car to an enthusiast. Then buy your next car AFTER you have sold this one. Trying to do a simple trade will cost you dearly. Or you will have to lie and live with that.
Your descriptions tell me you are not knowledgeable in these areas. It also sounds like you have not been working with a shop that specializes in your model car, especially one that regularly work on tuned ones.
Yes, it would be an excellent car if the problems were resolved. If you are not willing to find and work with such a shop you should sell and move on. Someone who does not understand the vehicle and does not have a reputable and competent specialist should not own such a vehicle. Not meant to be nasty, just realistic.
Possibly you you could sell it as a project car to an enthusiast. Then buy your next car AFTER you have sold this one. Trying to do a simple trade will cost you dearly. Or you will have to lie and live with that.
guy293482
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#13
Member
Where are the possible locations for restrictions?
Anywhere AFTER the turbo, but IMO you have a restriction in the exhaust. Your turbo is clearly getting plenty of air and we can determine that by seeing the high boost pressure, so it's working and that rules out the intake too. Your engine is nothing more then an air pump, push more air through it and it makes more power. That air (exhaust) needs to be expelled, that's the job of your exhaust system. So, you have boost, no power and the sound of air trying to wooosh past something. The exhaust is held onto the manifold with nuts and bolts and the rest of the system is most likely supported by rubber hangers. Simple tools and a lift is all that's needed to drop the system, take it apart and look into it. I'm sure there are plenty of mechanics in Korea that can perform this basic work. Stop asking them to troubleshoot it and tell them what you want done. I would almost bet my last dollar that you have a plugged up cat from a rich tune.
guy293482
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#14
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Thread Starter
tomf3: once again thank you for your clear instructions. In all the years I've posted and asked similar questions nobody explained it the way you did. I don't know yet if you are correct but the way you explained it makes a lot of sense and helped me to understand. The things you said about the boost getting enough air = no issue of air coming through the intake is something nobody ever mentioned. I really hope you are right. I'll still have to decide what I want to do with the car if that was the issue and I fix it. Should I keep it or sell it as fast as I can?
I'm going to the tuning shop tomorrow and will tell them specifically that I want the exhaust dropped so they can look inside and confirm whether or not i have a clogged cat or exhaust restriction. I'll report back. There is also the possibility they are going to tell me to leave the car with them for 3-4 days so they can run all kinds of test to find the root of the problem(s). If that is the case, I won't be able to know anything until many days later.
Clancy: Yes, I agree with you. The biggest mistake for me was that I bought a tuned car as someone who doesn't work with cars or is familiar with customizing engines etc. The next big problem is language. Not being able to communicate and understand each other makes working with mechanics and shops here difficult. The other issue is distance. Not many tuners / APR shops that know anything about this tune so I screwed myself with that. Overall, I'd still say that tuning cars is just a bad thing. There's nothing really good about it in terms of keeping your car reliable and long-lasting. Tuning just destroys your engine and all components at a much faster rate even if you don't race or drive hard like me. I'd say tuning is only good for people who a) have more money than they know what to do with (thereby having fun or projects) and b) professional racing / motorsports industry. Anyone else tuning cars is just flushing money down the toilet and creating more problems down the road (short-term thrill for long-term pain). Besides, I've been hearing that tuning is under attack and looks like it will become outright banned and illegal soon. I heard in the US that EPA has gone after every tuning shop and fined them $100k or so and shut them down etc. It's all over youtube of all these tuners getting hit with fines and more. Not to mention, electric cars are becoming cheaper and cheaper and outperform even the best tuned gasoline cars which is getting embarrassing. A stock plain looking electric car can accelerate faster than some 500 hp tuned gasoline super car that had 20k dropped into it in upgrades. It's sad because I do like the idea of customizing cars and sort of wanted to get into it (maybe study it, apprenticeship, work in the industry) but never could find the time or commitment to go that path. If I had more money than I know what to do with, I'd definitely have my own garage with all the tools and equipment to just work on my own cars and learn and experiment.
Thanks for your input. BTW, did you have any suggestions or opinions on what you think the issue could be from what I described? Do you also concur with tomf3 or do you think it could be a different issue?
I'm going to the tuning shop tomorrow and will tell them specifically that I want the exhaust dropped so they can look inside and confirm whether or not i have a clogged cat or exhaust restriction. I'll report back. There is also the possibility they are going to tell me to leave the car with them for 3-4 days so they can run all kinds of test to find the root of the problem(s). If that is the case, I won't be able to know anything until many days later.
Clancy: Yes, I agree with you. The biggest mistake for me was that I bought a tuned car as someone who doesn't work with cars or is familiar with customizing engines etc. The next big problem is language. Not being able to communicate and understand each other makes working with mechanics and shops here difficult. The other issue is distance. Not many tuners / APR shops that know anything about this tune so I screwed myself with that. Overall, I'd still say that tuning cars is just a bad thing. There's nothing really good about it in terms of keeping your car reliable and long-lasting. Tuning just destroys your engine and all components at a much faster rate even if you don't race or drive hard like me. I'd say tuning is only good for people who a) have more money than they know what to do with (thereby having fun or projects) and b) professional racing / motorsports industry. Anyone else tuning cars is just flushing money down the toilet and creating more problems down the road (short-term thrill for long-term pain). Besides, I've been hearing that tuning is under attack and looks like it will become outright banned and illegal soon. I heard in the US that EPA has gone after every tuning shop and fined them $100k or so and shut them down etc. It's all over youtube of all these tuners getting hit with fines and more. Not to mention, electric cars are becoming cheaper and cheaper and outperform even the best tuned gasoline cars which is getting embarrassing. A stock plain looking electric car can accelerate faster than some 500 hp tuned gasoline super car that had 20k dropped into it in upgrades. It's sad because I do like the idea of customizing cars and sort of wanted to get into it (maybe study it, apprenticeship, work in the industry) but never could find the time or commitment to go that path. If I had more money than I know what to do with, I'd definitely have my own garage with all the tools and equipment to just work on my own cars and learn and experiment.
Thanks for your input. BTW, did you have any suggestions or opinions on what you think the issue could be from what I described? Do you also concur with tomf3 or do you think it could be a different issue?
#15
Member
Thread Starter
I went to the shop today. These guys seem a bit better.
He knew right away to try a smoke tester. He ran the smoke tester and shortly after
there was smoke coming out from the turbo area up out of the engine bay.
I couldn't see exactly where it was coming from only that I saw smoke coming out so there was a pretty
massive leak somewhere.
He raised the car up, removed the right wheel, and the panels inside the wheel well to see the turbo side.
He told me there was a crack in the charge pipe and showed me. I don't know if that is where the leak is actually
coming from but I'm not familiar with this part and how it's supposed to look normally. The chargepipe (or is it called pressure pipe?) has this little piece welded onto it where bolts/nuts fasten into the engine I guess to keep it secure? It appears the weld has cracked or is chipping off but I couldn't really see a hole per say, just that the weld looks like it's cracked. I asked him if it was normal and he says no. It's not normal for a chargepipe (aluminum one) to have damage in this spot. Usually leaks come from connectors or seals, but not from this welded piece that holds it into the engine. He thinks it might have happened by something hitting it (it's not that far off the ground so I supposed that it is a possibility).
He says first to change the pipe so we order the piece:
Stock Part Number: 1K0 145 762 BM Name: Pressure pipe Exhaust gas turbocharger. costs about $260 USD I think but a similar one at ECS tuning website was about $220.
He's ordering it and I left the car there. He'll change the pipe and then we'll see if the car drives much better. If there's still a problem he says then we'll check the next steps. He didn't want to take off the downpipe and look into the cat as I suggested it might be clogged cat. He says he doesn't think so.
So I'll have to update you on this after a couple weeks I guess. Not sure exactly how long it will take to arrive but I'll ask later. I also want to keep that chargepipe to take a look.
Here's photos of it.
He knew right away to try a smoke tester. He ran the smoke tester and shortly after
there was smoke coming out from the turbo area up out of the engine bay.
I couldn't see exactly where it was coming from only that I saw smoke coming out so there was a pretty
massive leak somewhere.
He raised the car up, removed the right wheel, and the panels inside the wheel well to see the turbo side.
He told me there was a crack in the charge pipe and showed me. I don't know if that is where the leak is actually
coming from but I'm not familiar with this part and how it's supposed to look normally. The chargepipe (or is it called pressure pipe?) has this little piece welded onto it where bolts/nuts fasten into the engine I guess to keep it secure? It appears the weld has cracked or is chipping off but I couldn't really see a hole per say, just that the weld looks like it's cracked. I asked him if it was normal and he says no. It's not normal for a chargepipe (aluminum one) to have damage in this spot. Usually leaks come from connectors or seals, but not from this welded piece that holds it into the engine. He thinks it might have happened by something hitting it (it's not that far off the ground so I supposed that it is a possibility).
He says first to change the pipe so we order the piece:
Stock Part Number: 1K0 145 762 BM Name: Pressure pipe Exhaust gas turbocharger. costs about $260 USD I think but a similar one at ECS tuning website was about $220.
He's ordering it and I left the car there. He'll change the pipe and then we'll see if the car drives much better. If there's still a problem he says then we'll check the next steps. He didn't want to take off the downpipe and look into the cat as I suggested it might be clogged cat. He says he doesn't think so.
So I'll have to update you on this after a couple weeks I guess. Not sure exactly how long it will take to arrive but I'll ask later. I also want to keep that chargepipe to take a look.
Here's photos of it.