2018 Toyota Rav4 evap hose cut

I just got my car back from the dealership, they had it for days trying to figure out why the engine light was coming on and setting evap system codes. I had to take it to them three times before they decided to pick it up and inspect the system underneath (duh). Apparently a hose going to the canister has a cut in it and they say my warranty won't cover that. So... then they tell me it's about $900 for the entire fill neck assembly and related items and tax and labor. But then they say the parts are on nationwide backorder with no date for fulfillment in the future. Now I find it hard to believe I have to drop a grand because of a cut in a hose, especially one with no fluid and minimal pressure fluctuations. I haven't gotten the car up so that I can visually inspect and see what's cut, but does anyone here have experience with this issue? I will look soon when wife doesn't need the car for work (she's off next week). I can give more details after that. Heck it might be something obvious and easy to fix and I may not even need this inquiry. But I figured I'd pick the minds here for any hints or tips assuming someone here is familiar with what I'm about to get involved with.

 

Haven't heard/seen that, but I would certainly be inclined to put a butt splice connector where it's cut before I spent that kind of money, assuming it is merely the vapor purge line. And also assuming the location is accessible to work on. We'll see what the others say.

 

would probably check out forums dedicated to the rav4 see if any others have had the same issue, would likely splice it also or see what other method of repair could be done since the part is not available. would also be asking toyota why an emissions part is not covered under warranty.

 

They said it was a cut, not a defect or failure, so not covered. I'll have a look soon. Maybe it will be a small enough hose that I can use some electrical heat shrink to fix it and maybe fabricate some shield to go over it so it doesn't get "cut" again if it's that vulnerable. Thanks for the idea the_tow_guy!

 

A lot of good idea's here. If you run into a situation where it really needs to be replaced, since its out of warranty, anyone can change it out. Dealer is probably charging $125 per hour. I'd get Joe at the independent mechanic shop down the street & let him do it for $90 per hr... or better yet cousin Jim Bob that you trust to do this.
Parts on back order???? Remember, again, this is a dealer. They aren't going to check other auto parts outlets. The only place they will get a part is from the Mfg. OEM. $$$$$
Jim Bob can find one at an auto parts place somewhere or possibly on line some where for probably a 1/3 of the cost of OEM stuff & (surprise, surprise), its readily available.

Joe at the independent mechanic shop can probably do this for 1/2 of what the "stealership" will do it. Cousin Jim Bob can probably do this for $100 - $200.

It'll be new parts if that's what you prefer, instead of a "fix".

 

How could the hose get a "cut" in it ? Did they show you the cut that was NOT warranty ?
I would tell the dealer to notify you when the District Service Manager is scheduled to visit the dealership next, that you want to talk to him.
DO NOT give up on this !

 

I can't believe how simple this was. it was a little corrugated evap system hose. It got cut by road debris apparently, as it's exposed right in front of the left rear tire. It took 3 visits to the Toyota dealership, 2 of them requiring overnight stays for the vehicle before they actually lifted the car to inspect the evap system that the codes were being set for. Then they saw this cut hose and told me it would cost nearly $900 to fix. I took the piece of hose to a hardware store and found that 3/8" clear reinforced tubing fit very snugly inside, snugly enough that I had to push and twist to get it in. So for 98 cents of clear tubing, I repaired the $900 problem. I plugged the end of the hose and pressurized to check for leakage and it works. It's just a vapor hose, no pressure or liquid. Here are some photos that may help someone in the future, because as vulnerable as this hose is, I imagine I'm not the first, nor the last, to have this problem. Oh, I disconnected the battery, held the positive cable to the engine block for about 10 seconds and that turned off the check engine light, restarted and all is well.

 

Glad it worked out for you!

 

Nice.

 

The light came back on. I think it has more problems than just the broken hose. I may take it to a different dealership in a bigger city, tired of dealing with this.

 

I don't think you mentioned the actual code(s), cheese; was it the one for evap leak"?

2granddaughters mentioned going up the service chain of command (district, region, whatever). That's worth pursuing. I would ask them at length where they draw the line on a cut vs. another type of failure and how they can tell the difference, etc. Wouldn't hurt to drop a little hint like, "I guess next time maybe I should buy a Honda".

 

Lol I would but these guys are real pieces of work at this dealer. Long story but I had to sic the sheriff on the owner of the dealership for the things he did when this car was purchased. One thing was it had a lien on it and the tag office wouldn't issue us a tag, had to park it, then they gave us a "dealer" tag and said to use that to drive on. Found out that was illegal and opened us up to liability, they refused to do anything and I ended up threatening to take them to court and they said fine, so I left. Before I got home they were calling me on the phone trying to make deals. Then they cancelled our warranty and got a 2K refund on it 3 years ago, so all this time I thought we were driving on a 100k bumper to bumper platinum warranty and we had none. I got stranded in West Virginia with problems and tried to get it fixed, that's when I found out the warranty was cancelled. I talked to people higher up the chain at the warranty company and was told the reason they cancelled the warranty 3 weeks after purchasing the car was "buyer's remorse" and they took the $2k refund and kept it. On and on, I could tell you more.

 

Oh, the code had something to do with the evap system, that's all they would tell me.

 

Take it to an autoparts store - most will read the codes for free, then you'll know exactly what it is.

 

I wonder if the charcoal cannister maybe got gas in it and now it has dried out. I had 3 times when filling the tank that the tank would bubble back and turn the pump handle off back when this problem existed. Now that hasn't happened at all since I fixed the hose. The check engine light was coming on every 48 hours or so every time I reset it or the dealer reset it, and again after the hose repair, but now it has gone off by itself and stayed off for a few days now. I'm thinking maybe the cannister has dried out? Not sure, time will tell I suppose.

 

A 2018 would be a little young for a canister problem I would think, but maybe. I had an old minivan I got a while back via impound that had a canister so bad it was near impossible to pump fuel into. Replacing canister fixed it. I don't know that I'd jump on that just yet though.

 

When fuelling, DO NOT overfill the tank trying to get "just a little more in". You'll kill the canister.
I did in my new '98 Corolla

 

So far the light has stayed off. Not sure if the cannister had to dry out or what, but I'll hope the problem stays resolved. We took a long trip over the weekend and filled up a couple times, no problems there either. Keeping fingers crossed.

 

Hey, hold on, you're going to cut into my business with advice like that!