Supporting engine during timing belt change
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Supporting engine during timing belt change
I'm about to change the timing belt and replace the oil pump o-ring on my 2011 Acura TL (3.7L J-series engine). In order to remove one of the pulleys, the passengers side motor mount has to be removed. Some of the videos I've watched show the engine being supported with a jack and wood block at certain times but not supported at other times. Sometimes the jack is used to simply push the engine up to gain better access. How important is it that the engine be supported during this job?
Also, I planned to Jack all four corners of the vehicle to have as much space to work underneath as possible. Is there a trick do doing this? I was thinking I'd drive the front wheels up onto my ramps them jack up the back and support wi the jackstands, then jack up the front a littler more and place the stands in the front. Is there a better way to do this?
Also, I planned to Jack all four corners of the vehicle to have as much space to work underneath as possible. Is there a trick do doing this? I was thinking I'd drive the front wheels up onto my ramps them jack up the back and support wi the jackstands, then jack up the front a littler more and place the stands in the front. Is there a better way to do this?
#2
Just a little levity.....
My neighbor was a mechanic and did a lot of work in his garage and driveway.
He always required a helping hand and moral support.
I supplied the support..... he supplied the Corona and Doritos.
Moral of the story.... job goes much easier with help.
My neighbor was a mechanic and did a lot of work in his garage and driveway.
He always required a helping hand and moral support.
I supplied the support..... he supplied the Corona and Doritos.
Moral of the story.... job goes much easier with help.
#3
Member
If most of the work will be done from underneath the vehicle, you don't want a jack or floor mounted support under the engine that can get in your way. I would span the engine bay with a 4 x 4 and use a chain to hold that side of the engine (motor mount removed) up. If most of the work will be from topside, a jack or floor mounted support under the engine will work. You could also rent an engine hoist.
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Yeah. Makes sense. Reason I'm asking is because a lot of videos I've watched (professional mechanics) show the motor mount removed and no support for the engine at all. I'm guessing it's fine since there are a couple other mounts and the transmission is also supporting the engine?
#5
I would try to keep a jack under it most of the time to prevent extra stress on the transmission mounts, but yes it is common to raise or lower it when doing a timing belt if you have limited access most vehicles you can work through the wheel well after removing the plastic wheel well or splash shields so you may want to jack up the one corner place a jackstand and remove the wheel or at least turn it to gain access, I would not drive it on stands or jack it very high though as you will be working under the hood also.
#6
Member
Thread Starter
I'm doing the oil pump seal as well, which requires removing the oil pan and exhaust, which is why I need the additional working height. I could remove those things then lower the car back down for the timing belt job though. I'll figure it out. Thanks!
#7
Member
I think you have good plan mossman. I rec your initial height to be whatever gives you the best leverage on the crank bolt. The hardest part of the job is breaking torque on the crank bolt. The second hardest is to not counter rotate the engine while breaking torque. Best jacking height is determined by your breaker bar setup.
#8
Member
Thread Starter
I bought the beefy Lisle impact socket, so I'm not anticipating any issues getting the crank bolt off, but I'm prepared to break it free manually if necessary.
My main concerns are the exhaust bolts and sealing the oil pump housing and oil pan properly, and the mess that will occur when I remove the water pump and coolant comes pouring out . I plan on soaking the bolts with some PB Blaster a week or so prior. I have a tube of Honda Bond and have seen videos of people applying it differently. The mating surfaces are machined so my gut is telling me to use a small bead (maybe 1/8"?), applied using the provided application nozzle, and allow it to squeeze out upon reinstallation. Videos I've watched show people using way too much it seems and spreading it with their finger, which I don't think is necessary.
My main concerns are the exhaust bolts and sealing the oil pump housing and oil pan properly, and the mess that will occur when I remove the water pump and coolant comes pouring out . I plan on soaking the bolts with some PB Blaster a week or so prior. I have a tube of Honda Bond and have seen videos of people applying it differently. The mating surfaces are machined so my gut is telling me to use a small bead (maybe 1/8"?), applied using the provided application nozzle, and allow it to squeeze out upon reinstallation. Videos I've watched show people using way too much it seems and spreading it with their finger, which I don't think is necessary.