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1990 Honda Accord


trinitro's Avatar
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01-10-02, 03:43 AM   #1  
1990 Honda Accord

Hi,

I have a 90 Accord with a automatic transmission, I believe it's a 4 speed. The problem is that it shifts pretty rough, mostly on an upshift, but also on a downshift. Sometimes I have a feeling the whole engine/transmission combo will just pop out of the car. I hate to take it to the shop to be told I need a $2000 rebuild.
Could it be something I can replace without taking so whole transmission apart? The car drives beatifully, it doesn't slip, the fluid is normal, but it jerks, mostly as the transmission gets hot.

 
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01-10-02, 05:00 AM   #2  
Joe_F
Possibly a shift solenoid inside, but not really a DIY type repair, unless you have the tools and the factory service manual. Some of those solenoids get pretty pricey.

Have you had a shop look at it yet or test drive it?

 
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01-10-02, 05:14 AM   #3  
Not yet. We are still recovering from the $2000 repair bill on my father's Camry. I guess the torque convertor stopped functioning? I don't know much about transmissions. I'll take it there one of these days. Will that same part make the car downshift rough also? What is mean when you stop at a stop light, and you're almost fully stop, you can feel a jerk while I guess the transmission dissengages from the engine. It mostly happens around 30 mpg, which is right between 2nd and 3rd gear. It happens much more "subtle" if you accelerate hard. It's worse if you accelerate slowly. Looking at the tach it seems like the RMP goes about 500 rpms higher right before the shift. On a couple of occasions I thought I'll hit the steering wheel.

 
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01-10-02, 05:57 AM   #4  
Joe_F
Yea, sounds like whatever controls the converter might be sticking.

Can you equate it to driving a car with a clutch and slowing to a stop light and forgetting to push down the pedal? (it would jerk and stall).

If you can, that's likely the torque converter hanging up. Call the dealer and find out if there is a shift solenoid that controls it and how hard it is to replace. That might be your problem.

2000 bucks? For what? Whew!!!!!!!

Another reason to buy American and old. Cheap, reliable, bulletproof and simple !

 
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01-10-02, 10:44 AM   #5  
It's similar to that, somewhat. I can get the car to die if I brake really hard. If the wheels lock up during braking the car will die most of the time. not fun, it's difficult to steer with a dead engine. During normal driving you can feel the car downshift, but it's not that harsh, except when you're almost at a complete stop. Then your whole body moves. Not nearly as bad as when it changes 2nd gear to 3rd.
Regarding the Camry, he did a full overall of the tranny (that was $1400, and then he needed to replace the torque converter (something about being plugged), and a couple of other things. The difference between the $1400 and $2000 was mostly parts. It does drive beautifully, I don't remember when that car changed gears so smoothly. Plus, before we took it to the shop it wouldn't reverse.

 
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01-11-02, 02:22 AM   #6  
On a different note, be sure you keep the timing belt on your Honda changed at the recommended interval if it's a valve-bender. We tow Hondas all the time that have become $1200 head replacements when the owners failed to do the $200 timing belt preventive manitenance.

 
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01-11-02, 05:40 AM   #7  
Joe_F
This is very true. TowGuy is right. Also the water pump should be changed at the same time.

 
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01-11-02, 05:58 AM   #8  
Thanks. The car has 113K on it right now, and the belt was changed around 60K. I'll make sure to change it before 120K hits. Should I use a Honda timing belt, or another brand? I can bring my own parts at the shop that works on the car.

 
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01-11-02, 07:19 AM   #9  
Joe_F
Gates or Dayco belts are fine.

 
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