1983 GMC G3500 14ft. Cube Van-(ticking sound)

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  #1  
Old 01-25-02, 07:25 PM
Bones
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Question 1983 GMC G3500 14ft. Cube Van-(ticking sound)

Can some one please advise me if "the ticking type sound" I'm hearing may be an "exhaust leak"? The person I just purchased this truck from seems to have made this "dual exhaust/make -shift muffler system". I notice when the vehicle is in "Park or Neutral" the ticking noise goes away. However, when I put the cube van in "Drive" and push the accelarator down while driving I hear that "ticking noise" again. When I let "off" on the gas pedal I don't hear the "ticking noise" any more. I also thought it might be the "power steering belt" too. Sometimes when I first start the "cube van" up I hear a loud squeling/screaching type noise and then it disappears. I'm not sure if the "belt" is loose or worn or what. Can I spray any "safe" belt dressing on this belt/pullet area to stop that belt from squealing? Please send me any and all your thoughts concerning this matter?
Thanks,
Bones
 
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  #2  
Old 01-25-02, 08:40 PM
knuckles
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The squeal is probably due to a loose, worn or glazed V-belt. Inspect the belts (all of them...they're cheap) and tighten or replace them to eliminate the squeal. Make sure you use high quality belts. I personally prefer Dayco brand.

The ticking sound is probably a leaking exhaust manifold or header gasket. Does this van still have the original exhaust manifolds, or has someone replaced them with headers?

Header gaskets are leak prone...ok for a car you drive or race occasionally, but not something you want on a work truck. If you have headers, remove them & install OEM style exhaust manifolds.

If the truck still has the OEM manifolds, check them for cracks & make sure the bolts are tight. The back 2 bolts on each manifold tend to work loose if the locking tabs are missing or rusted away. New locking tabs can be had from your GM dealer for a few dollars.

If the manifolds are tight & not cracked, check the exhaust pipe flange nuts for tightness & check the flanges & pipes for holes & rust or poor fit.

It might be a big time saver to simply remove the hack-job exhaust system that's currently on the truck & replace it with an OEM type single exhaust system. While you're at it, replace the exhaust manifold gaskets & locking tabs.

The Chevy vans aren't terribly bad to work on once you remove the engine cover (aka "doghouse").
 
  #3  
Old 01-26-02, 04:25 PM
Joe_F
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I agree with Knuckles. Gates brand of belts are fine as well.

Another issue and cause of leaks is the AIR tree manifolds which are used for the air pump. They will cause that kind of racket. The check valves and pipes rot out.

They are screwed to each head or exhaust manifold and look like tree branches (hence, the slang of "trees").

Wiggle on them. If they are rotted or loose, any parts store can furnish new valves and pipes for a few bucks.

I also agree about the exhaust system. Dump the hokey redneck system and go back to an OE style system. Less headaches that way.
 
  #4  
Old 01-26-02, 05:59 PM
knuckles
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Gates

Joe, I've used Gates for years, but it seems like their quality has dropped off in the last year or 2. I had 2 or 3 brand new Gates V & serpentine belts stretch excessively in the first few months of operation.

I also noticed their radiator hoses don't seem to last as long as they used to. I had one fail after about 9-10 mos. of service (less than 8K miles).

Gates also consolidated a lot of part numbers, eliminating many "8" series v-belts & replacing them with "7" series belts, which are narrower.

I switched to Dayco a couple of yrs ago & I've had no problems since. Their belt coverage is at least as good as Gates & they seem to be a higher quality product. Dayco belts are harder to find here in the Phila. metro area...most stores carry Gates exclusively. I have a good relationship w/ my parts jobber & he orders Dayco stuff for me. They Dayco stuff costs a little bit more, but it's worth it in my opinion.
 
  #5  
Old 01-26-02, 07:57 PM
Joe_F
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I dump my belts and hoses every four years, so I guess I have not seen any problems.

Dayco's belts look hokey. The rib on the top is plain stupid looking. Not to mention in four years, the numbers are worn off and if you're going by a belt # to find a new one, forget it wih Dayco.

I also found that in the past they hiked their prices faster than Gates did. I don't mind either, it's whatever the jobber stocks. My jobber direct buys from Delco, Gates, and FelPro. He's an old time jobber that's been around since the 20's (family run business).

I got two Raybestos Blue Line (PG) drums for my 84 Olds 88 (9 1/2 rear brakes) for 21 bucks each. That's offbrand price and below jobber. He, like your jobber will order whatever I ask him. I do all the research and furnish the part #s, all he has to do is order them .

Incidentally, both manufacturers are OE suppliers. Delco's line of belts is rebadged Gates product.

Speaking of Dayco I have a "FactFinder" belt sizer in my garage. I got it from the guy I bought all the tools and toolboxes from at the estate sale. He had a lot of things that he must have gotten from parts stores and manufacturer's reps over the years. He was a loyal and good customer.
 
  #6  
Old 01-26-02, 08:04 PM
knuckles
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I agree about Dayco's hokey looking V-belts, but they've held up better than the Gates products of late.

Speaking of substandard parts....have you had any experience with Bosch water pumps? Just this week I had a brand new Bosch pump with a casting flaw...it leaked like a sieve. Not much fun when it's 3 AM & the truck you're working on is your ride home!
 
  #7  
Old 01-27-02, 06:22 AM
Joe_F
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Knuckles:

Bosch likely reboxes someone else's water pump or has someone rebuild them if they are rebuilt.

A couple of things:

1) If you buy a Delco pump for say an old V8 application like my Olds or Pontiac, be prepared to get a TRW in the box! I was SO steamed when this happened to me. I ordered (special order) a #251-233 Delco pump for my 79 T/A and then a week later found out it was the same FP1423 TRW pump that was sitting on the jobber's shelf Not to mention, since my jobber buys from Federal Mogul directly, it would have been under jobber price.

2) That being said, TRW and Airtex make decent new pumps. My neighbor did have a few problems with Airtex though, including the pump shaft letting go and wiping out the radiator, fan shroud, pulley and belt on his 1991 S10 Blazer. Airtex was a real PITA about the claim. Since his brother is a lawyer when they heard lawsuit, they quickly paid.

3) A-1 Cardone makes a good rebuilt unit, and most parts stores and buying groups (Auto Pride based out of CT for one) relabel the Cardone product. Especially so if the part # is a 58-XXX style part #. A rebuilt pump for my Olds 88 is about 15 bucks at jobber, and a new one about 50 or so from TRW or Airtex.

Your chances of getting the original type casting are of course better with Cardone. My neighbor has had good luck with rebuilt Cardones and when the pump went on my Olds he said, "No, order a rebuilt....better off". I have noticed that Cardone is remanning even aftermarket cores now. In the past, they would only do GM. So far, so good.

I wouldn't buy a Bosch pump as they are likely overpriced and no better than anything else out there. Aluminum castings are tough to get right. You might want to go with OE Chrysler pump here.

What engine size (I think this is your vehicle, no?) are we talking here?

Been there, done that with the "hurry up need it for work the next morning" scenario. Not fun. I always have a backup vehicle ready or I have the option of public transit here in the NYC suburbs.
 
  #8  
Old 01-27-02, 06:56 PM
Bones
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Smile

Dear Knuckles and Joe F.,
Thanks for all the great information. I'll keep you both informed of my repair results.
Take care,
Bones
 
  #9  
Old 01-28-02, 03:46 AM
Joe_F
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Thumbs up

Good deal. Let us know what you find!
 
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