Valve adjustment-BB-396

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Old 02-21-02, 06:25 PM
crick
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Valve adjustment-BB-396

switching from hydraulic cam & lifters to solid,need help with valve adjustment, had a mechanic tell me i could wipe the cam out real quick if i adjusted them to specs while cold,is this true? Heres another question, it kinda puzzled me, when i pulled the timing chain cover off and aligned the two dots(cam gear and crank) the rotor in the distributor is pointing in No.6 firing position,is that odd or is that right?
 
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Old 02-21-02, 06:31 PM
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The marks, when closest to each other, is 180 deg out. When both marks are at the top of the gears the dist should point to #1. I'll let someone else answer the lifter question, as I'm unfamiliar with solids in an engine made for hydraulics. Why make that change? Out of curiosity.
 
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Old 02-21-02, 06:38 PM
mooser1
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first to the timing marks...

the mark on the crank gear and the mark on the cam gear do have to be in a straight line, but not necessarily next to each other.....right now you're 180 out....did you try to set the #1 piston on TDC before you removed the cam? rotate your engine one (1) full turn clockwise as you look at it, the rotor will now point to #1. and the marks on the gears should be in a straight line running thru the centers of crank & cam....

OK, answer the TDC question first and we'll go from there.....

to answer your question concerning where the rotors pointing, yes, it is odd, not odd, just incorrect....post back and I'll explain what I think has happened.....
 
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Old 02-21-02, 06:50 PM
crick
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yes i thought it was odd,but the engine is running,and trying to explain the marks,the mark on the cam gear is down and the mark on the crank is up,when the crank is turned one revolution,the mark on the cam gear is up and im in No.1 fire pos.
 
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Old 02-21-02, 06:57 PM
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That is correct...both dots on both gears should be in the 12:00 position for engine to be at TDC on #1 cyl.
 
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Old 02-21-02, 06:57 PM
crick
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Thanks cheese for your input,the engine is a 396-375,it actually came stock with solids,it was swapped around to hydraulic,the engine just feels sluggish ,i'm hoping this will help it out a little bit,its a show car and only driven abou 300-500 miles a year,not real worried about gas mileage,thanks for your blessing ,i may need it
 
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Old 02-21-02, 07:09 PM
mooser1
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set the clearances exactly as to the manufacturer's specs on the lifter's, they are calculated to include the difference between cold and warm engine.....setting them too loose when cold as your friend suggested will actually ruin the cam quicker because of the extra slack they will "pound" the lifters into the cam lobes....make sure you thorougly lubricate both cam and lifters with the white litium "cam grease" when you put her together, you'll have no problems.....
 
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Old 02-21-02, 07:15 PM
mooser1
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as cheese said, you should be good to go.....long time ago they would mark the gears so that when properly installed the marks would be at 12 and 6, right next to each other, they quit doing that some time ago.....
 
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Old 02-21-02, 07:19 PM
crick
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thanks mooser for your help,another question i have is,when setting solids you need a feeler gauge,is that correct? This same mechanic told me to set them when the valve was half opened, that did'nt sound right to me,does he just think he's a mechanic or does he know what he's talking about?
 
  #10  
Old 02-21-02, 07:30 PM
mooser1
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yes, you do need a feeler gauge.....maybe's he's an old time racer, would be awfully difficult without going to all the trouble to set up a dial indicator on each valve, when it is "half open".....

I've never heard of this and never seen a cam manufacturer recommend this procedure.....

personally, I would do it the recommended way, rotate engine till both valves are closed, use feeler gauge, move on to next cylinder.....

just my thoughts....
 
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