repairing a dent near rear corner

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  #1  
Old 02-22-02, 01:52 PM
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Question repairing a dent near rear corner

I goofed about 6 mos ago and backed my pickup into a tree (moron ). I'm planning on replacing the bumper and repairing the resulting dent myself. I may do a roll pan instead of a bumper.

Anyhow, the dent is a result of the rear bumper jamming into the body, and is about 3/4" deep, right smack on the lower corner of the body. I plan on hammering out the slight bulge and filling in with Bondo, and repainting that spot. My question is this, will regular old Plasti-Kote truck/suv paint work? I've used it before to paint mirrors and such, and it doesn't seem to chip or peel after a year.

I will, of course, sand that small area on the metal, apply bondo, shape to appropriate contour, sand smooth, clean with alcohol, primer, lightly sand, clean with alcohol, and spray black, and then clear coat. Primer, black, and clear cote will be the Plasti-kote stuff.

I don't mind it looking a little off color, such as the black or clear coat not matching perfectly, since my truck is a 1990 (C-1500).

Queston 1- Is is possible to do this and it not peel and flake off in a year?

Question 2- Could I use this same primer/paint/clear coat to paint my grille? I hate that odd looking brown color it is, and think black would look better.

Thanks,
Mako
 
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  #2  
Old 02-22-02, 04:53 PM
darrell McCoy
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Have had excellent results painting tail light covers and window louvers with Dupli-Color. Always have a very good match.
use their primer, paint and clearcoat. Clean area well and use several light coats instead of 1 or 2 heavier coats. This particular paint holds up well. They have a good selection of OEM paint colors also.
 
  #3  
Old 02-23-02, 10:47 AM
Joe_F
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What kind of job do you want? Show quality? Ok from 10 feet away? A Brooklyn quickie job? Lol.

I would take the truck to a body shop all apart. Have them do the paint work and you do the R&R of the bumper and the other trim yourself. You'll save money that way and it will come out great.

If you don't really care about the results as far as factory original, I would do it as suggested. Not to say it won't come out OK, it just won't look original/like it's never been hit.
 
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Old 02-25-02, 04:43 AM
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Considering my budget right not I think the "ok from 10 feet away" category fits. As long as I'm not risking making a total mess of it, I think I'll try it.

As far as doing the body work and letting a body shop paint it, I think I'll call around for a price. I know that some won't touch body work they didn't do. Some will. Thanks guys!
Mako
 
  #5  
Old 02-25-02, 06:05 AM
Joe_F
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I think I lost you .

I mean, take the necessary parts off the truck (lights, bumper, etc).

Bring it to the shop bare. Have them do the paint and body work on it. Then reinstall everything yourself.

That's what I usually do. Comes out great. The shop doesn't have to worry about prep or making too much of a mess. Then you can take your time with the details of putting it all back together.

That's what I've done with great results.
 
  #6  
Old 03-01-02, 10:12 PM
car-man
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let me know if u still need help with this. and the bumper. I can walk u through this. I have been a body tech. for over 20 years.
 
  #7  
Old 03-02-02, 05:58 AM
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I think, due to cost, I'm stuck buying a $100 roll pan from JC Whitney.

So, is there anything special I need to buy to remove the bumper (braces, etc...)?

The cool thing is, the body shop that repaired my truck from the wreck that happened in Jan agreed to replace ALL of the pin striping on my truck if I'd remove the old. Any idea how to do this without scraping my paint? The old strip is cracking and brittle in some places, and others it is still nice and stuck, just faded.


Thanks guys!
Mako
 
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