Welcome to the DoItYourself Forums!

To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. It's free!

Need help again,cam problems-396


crick's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

02-22-02, 08:08 PM   #1  
crick
Need help again,cam problems-396

I just yanked out the cam and lifters,,,,,one lobe was completely wiped out, the funny thing is that it was also wiped at an angle??the lifter was real fun to get out too,it was worn very different from what iv'e seen,almost like it had turned and started wearing at a different side,did i over tighten the valve at an earlier date or do i have other problems?

 
Sponsored Links
knuckles's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

02-22-02, 09:14 PM   #2  
knuckles
It's not uncommon to find cam lobes worn at an angle. They're often ground at a very slight angle and /or the lifter sits slightly off-center on the lobe. This causes the lifter to spin as the cam rotates, which reduces wear & prevents the cam lobe from cutting a trough in the lifter base.

If it were MY car, I'd replace the cam, lifters & valve springs. Make sure you check for coil bind and valve srping retainer to valve guide clearance on each lobe once the new cam is installed.
Also, make sure the push rods are installed correctly!

You can get a new "Blueprint" series cam from Crane Cams. It'll be a direct copy of the OEM cam. Get a new set of stock style lifters too. Once the cam is installed, remove the oil pan for cleaning. All that metal from the wasted cam lobe had to go somewhere & you don't want it floating around in your oil!

 
mooser1's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

02-23-02, 10:00 AM   #3  
mooser1
mr. crick, mr. crick.....what is going on here?

in your thread started 2/21 you stated that engine originally had solid lifter's, previous owner switched to hydraulics, you want to switch back to solids, correct?

you also stated you were changing cam and lifters back to solids.......hopefully this is the case....please tell me you're not just trying to switch the lifter's using the same cam.....

this would create major problems for you mr. crick, as you might have already found out...

cams are ground specifically for an individual type of lifter setup, flat hydraulic, roller hydraulic, flat solid, roller solid, etc....

trying to run solid lifter's on a hydraulic cam or vice-versa is a big no-no.......

 
crick's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

02-23-02, 02:03 PM   #4  
crick
No No, i did'nt try that,thats what i found when i pulled the hydraulic cam and lifters out,i've installed the new solid cam and lifters,and now i am puzzled about something else,when adjusting the valves using the feeler gauge,the gauge is saying there right,but the rocker arms are really loose antd theres play in between the pushrod and the rocker??????? is this normal? i'm new at dealing with solids--

 
mooser1's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

02-23-02, 02:33 PM   #5  
mooser1
the play should be between the rocker arm and the valve stem.......hold rocker arm down firmly with your finger on top of pushrod, adjust valve lash between rocker and valve stem, lock her down.

once locked and you release pressure from rocker arm, you will be able to wiggle rocker arms a bit, they are run loosely compared to hydraulics because you don't have the "cushion" of the hydraulic tappet to take up the slack.....once the engine is warmed up a lot of this slack will be gone due to expansion of the metal.....

when you fire it up you will definitely notice "lifter noise", much the same noise as when hydraulics are adjusted too loosely, this is normal for solids......

happy wrenching.....

 
crick's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

02-23-02, 08:44 PM   #6  
crick
thanks mooser1 for your help,should there be any play between the pushrod and the rocker arm(up and down) that has a very small amount of play

 
crick's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

02-24-02, 04:36 PM   #7  
crick
Anyone?

 
Search this Thread