Bleeding Brakes

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  #1  
Old 03-30-02, 02:02 PM
dntdualm130
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Bleeding Brakes

Thanks for taking my ?
I have a 1985 ford ranger truck, it has 65,000 miles on it the brake booster went out, so I replaced the master cylinder and the booster. Could you please tell me how to properly bleed the brake system. It has power brakes
 
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  #2  
Old 03-30-02, 04:03 PM
Joe_F
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Get a helper.

Fill up the master cylinder. Cap it off.

Go to the wheel furthest from the master and have the helper pump up the brakes.

Do it in this sequence:

Tell the helper to pump, pump, pump then hold it. While he/she is holding it, open your bleeder screw (protect your eyes...brake fluid stings) and let the fluid out. Keep going until you have a steady stream of fluid with no air/spitting/bubbles out of each wheel. Work your way to the wheel closest to the master cylinder.

Don't let the master get ou of fluid or you're back to square one.

Get a repair manual/check the links in my signature file for some ideas. There are also "one man" bleeder kits that are sold at any parts store and a Mityvac vacuum pump can also be used.
 
  #3  
Old 03-30-02, 05:23 PM
chadtoolio
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Another method of doing this is also to do a "gravity bleed". Although slower, it only takes one person to do and it works. As stated above make sure that the master cylinder is always full of fluid. Again, Bleed in this order RR,LR,RF,LF. All you have to do is to crack the bleeder and wait until all of the bubbles have come out of the fitting. I would suggest bleeding the master cylinder first though. Same technique, Fill master cylinder and crack both of the lines loose until there are no more bubbles coming out of the master cylinder..

Good luck
 
  #4  
Old 03-30-02, 07:40 PM
marturo's Avatar
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Master Cyl.

Don't you agree he should bench bleed the master first?

One thing to remember, is to instruct your pumper to push the petal slowly down, and up again when bleading. If they pump to quickly, it will whip the air into tiny bubbles, and take a lot longer to get the job done.

The one man, vacuum bleeding kits have come down in price now. They do a much better, & quicker bleeding job than the pump way. The gravity is good also, but find tubes to put on your bleeders, and put the tubes into jars to keep from making a mess.
 

Last edited by marturo; 03-31-02 at 10:07 AM.
  #5  
Old 03-31-02, 07:47 AM
chadtoolio
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I agree with "bench bleeding" first, but I believe it can also be done very effectively on the car by cracking the lines and pumping or gravity bleeding.
I also agree with not pumping the pedal very quickly.
Another way is not to pump the pedal at all. Crack the bleeder open first and push the pedal slowly to the floor, when the pedal is at the bottom of it's travel tighten the bleeder and repeat the process...

Good luck
 
  #6  
Old 04-01-02, 08:24 AM
rs_petty
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Keeping master full

I have seen ads for adapter plates that allow a bottle of fluid to be inverted over the master cylinder to keep it full while bleeding. Do these things work or do you wind up with fluid all over the place?
 
  #7  
Old 04-01-02, 04:16 PM
Joe_F
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EIS and Wagner used to make a power bleeder. That worked well.

Other than that, just keep the reservoir topped up and capped during all your bleeding and you'll be fine.
 
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