Transmission Oil
#1
Transmission Oil
I want to change my transmission oil completely, including the oil in the converter. I think I can disconnect the radiator oil line to remove the old oil , but how do I get the new oil in at the same time?
#2
You can take the line off the radiator and put a hose over the line. Then start the car, putting the hose into a bucket.
Once the fluid runs out, shut off the car immediately. This is a hokey way to do it, but it works. .
The new fluid is put in through the dipstick fill tube after all the old stuff is drained out.
Normally, just dropping the pan and changing the fluid and the filter is enough. Why are you doing this???
Once the fluid runs out, shut off the car immediately. This is a hokey way to do it, but it works. .
The new fluid is put in through the dipstick fill tube after all the old stuff is drained out.
Normally, just dropping the pan and changing the fluid and the filter is enough. Why are you doing this???
#3
Actually Im getting a hesitation at the shift change in the upper speed range. Its a 93 Buick LaSabre.
The oil and filter have about 80,000 miles on it. The oil is getting dark and I think it would be better to change all the oil in the system, rather than just 30%.(the oil in the pan)
You dont think it will hurt the trans to run it out of oil?(even though i would shut it off as soon as the oil stopped comming out.)
Thanks for the replys.
The oil and filter have about 80,000 miles on it. The oil is getting dark and I think it would be better to change all the oil in the system, rather than just 30%.(the oil in the pan)
You dont think it will hurt the trans to run it out of oil?(even though i would shut it off as soon as the oil stopped comming out.)
Thanks for the replys.
Last edited by kpurdy; 04-04-02 at 09:21 AM.
#6
Thanks for all the replys. The trans oil was just starting to turn(losing its pink color)dark, it still had some pink to it. Its my wifes car, so it only got driven to the grocery and church(no kidding.)Anyway, today I changed oil and filter. It seems to have taken care of the stuttering at the shifting points. The pan was clean of any dirt or shavings. The magnet in the pan had 1/32" of super fine grey matter on it. I followed your suggestion and bled the oil out of the trans cooler line, 4 quarts at a time,(it stopped pumping oil at 4 qts.)I then added 4 new qts of oil, and started the engine again.Replaced 9 qts and quit. I test drove it and no more stuttering. My question is why did this fix the problem.(I know clean oil). If you have time can you explain in technical terms
what the original problem(shuttering at the shift points) was caused by and what fixed it. Thanks a million for the help.
what the original problem(shuttering at the shift points) was caused by and what fixed it. Thanks a million for the help.
#7
I'm a Petroleum Engineer not a mechanic. However, when oil foams it prevents the proper operation of equipment. Foam is caused by entrapped air and oxidized oil loses its foam depressant qualities. Perhaps one of the auto technicians on this board may be able to offer another explanation.
#8
Oil between any two moving parts makes for lubrication.
It's likely that grit and dirt from the burned fluid were getting in between things causing grief. Be glad you caught it now, often it is too late when you do at that point!
Also new fluid of today is vastly improved over old fluid from years ago .
It's likely that grit and dirt from the burned fluid were getting in between things causing grief. Be glad you caught it now, often it is too late when you do at that point!
Also new fluid of today is vastly improved over old fluid from years ago .