Welcome to the DoItYourself Forums!

To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. It's free!

74 chevy 350?


bryan77's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

04-08-02, 05:28 PM   #1  
bryan77
74 chevy 350?

Ok I,m back...... still tossed on the antifreeze right now but thats ok! I have a couple questions.


(1) I am in the process of having carb rebuilt, and replacing radiator, no problem there, but as I was looking around I discovered what appeared to be the Intake leak, no problem I've takin those of before, but my problem is It appears that I have to remove the distributer to take the intake off, I have never done that and I think I can create some problems for me come time to reinstall, so here I am what do I have to do to make this easy as possible to reinstall correctly, what holds this distibuter in, I see a clamp like divise that is on the side but I cant see that being the only thing keeping it in my motor.

(2)Right next to the distributer on the drivers side of the intake is something that looks as if it screws into the Intake and it sits about 1 1/2-2 inches high and has a wire that goes into my wiring harness,It has oil all around it, so I wonder is this a sensor or something and what is its purpose?


(3)Right now I have a rebuilt carb, a new radiator, new t-stat, new hoses, my valve covers are off right now, and soon hope to have distributer out and Intake off, I have to unbolt the alternator bracket to remove the Intake, I was wondering should I check anything or replace anything now while Im in it this far, I was thinking of changing the water pump it looks a little worse for the wear so Im probably going to change it, but am I missing anything?



(4)What kind of difference performance wise does it make to go to an aftermarket Intake? the motor as stated is a 74 chevy 350, and I have a Holley 600, is it worth the $$$




As you can tell I wouldnt even call myself a weekend warrior but I like to work on my cars myself and learn as I go. This site has yet to fail me and I dont think it will, you folks on here are great, and thanks in advance

 
Sponsored Links
Joe_F's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

04-08-02, 06:10 PM   #2  
Joe_F
Holleys are hokey and a 1974 350 doesn't make the power to warrant a Holley. A warmed over Q-jet will do fine for fuel economy and power.

As I suggested in a prior mail, get a hold of a repair manual. Even a basic one will provide invaluable reading and will hone your skills.

To answer your ??:

1) You must mark the distributor to take it out and install it properly.

2) Sounds like your heater control valve or blower motor (the thing with the oil on it), but your description is very vague.

3) Coolant, hoses, belts, water pump, heater hoses, radiator boiled out.

 
Billdo49er's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

04-08-02, 06:25 PM   #3  
Billdo49er
1) When taking out distributor(Which is held in by 1 bolt ) turn engine til the mark on the balancer is a TDC.Then take cap off distributor and mark where rotor and dist are at.

2)Sounds more like oil pressure sending switch.

3)I agree with JoeF on this question.

4)Depends on the aftermarket intake and if your heads are already honed and polished.A good intake will be honed and polished to aid in better fuel intake to the combustion chamber.

 
bryan77's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

04-08-02, 06:47 PM   #4  
bryan77
Bill to my knowledge the heads are not honed and polished,, I will probably just put the same Intake back on, was just toying around the thought thats all. As for radiator boil out, as joe stated, what is that? I am putting in a brand new radiator.

 
Billdo49er's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

04-08-02, 07:05 PM   #5  
Billdo49er
It's a flush procedure.
But if your replacing radiator as you say then that would not be neccessary.

 
marturo's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,448

04-08-02, 07:22 PM   #6  
350

I have a 74 350 in my 69. This a 4 bolt main blue printed 350 that No amount of money can buy. My questions. Did you have your heads milled? Then did you have your cast iron intake manifold milled to fit you new angle? What type of manifold is it? You said Holley 600 that is a Square bore. not the normal spreadBore. My son has a Corvette square bore Intake and runs the Holley 4160 600 CFM Square Bore Carb. I have the Standard Quardra Jet Intake Spread Bore and I run a Holley 4175 650 CFM.

One problem you will run into with the Aluminum, after market Intake is warpage , so allways use Fel-Pro Printo Seal intake gaskets, with the raised beads around your runners and water passages.

We understand and can tune Holleys. So Holley is our #1 choice. Many people take a Carb out of the box, and some how expect them, the Carb to tune its self. If you had the heads milled. Did the shop not tell you you need your Intake milled as well?

As far as the intake is concerned. Give us your Cam specs, and the headers you are running size ID. Are you running Pro-Flo valves, the ones with the flow area cut down.

All these things are important to understand if an aftermarket intake will give you any performance increase.

The 74 350 is a good strong engine. Even without roller rockers and extensieve Blue printing this engine will get the job done. What brand of Gaskets are you using? I use all Fel-Pro and have not seen any others to change my mind yet.

Right next to the distributer on the drivers side of the intake is something that looks as if it screws into the Intake and it sits about 1 1/2-2 inches high and has a wire that goes into my wiring harness,It has oil all around it,

There is nowhere in the Intake manifold, to take anything but water temp and Vacuum readings, not oil pressure.

My oil line is in the rear flat on the engine block right behind where the intake sits on the Cork or rubber rear seal.

There are 4 spots you need to put a dab of silicone when you install your intake. Did you do that? A side note to engine builders. I have been using Hylomar HPF, instead of RTV in the engine areas. So far so goood compaired to RTV. It is also resistant to gasoline so you can use it on carb base insulating blocks like Phenolics block to spacer= no paper.

Cast Iron Intake Manifolds have some special properties that aluminum does not have, like you don't have to use a heat spacer to prevent summer vapor lock. It would be less costly to either have your intake milled or change gasket brands. Did you get my PM? Marturo


Last edited by marturo; 04-09-02 at 09:43 AM.
 
Billdo49er's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

04-08-02, 07:31 PM   #7  
Billdo49er
Thanks for the correction marturo.As I stated in the pm I sent you
When he said the sw. was next to distributor I assumed he meant on the block rather than on the manifold itself.That being said it should be a coolant temp sender.

 
Joe_F's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

04-09-02, 05:54 AM   #8  
Joe_F
As I recall, the coolant lamp sender/switch is on the left front cylinder head on a Chevy V8.....

Bill and Marturo give you some good advice. It all depends on your goals and what you want to do with the vehicle.

Start with the basics. You also don't tell us what 1974 Chevy we are talking about .

Chevy V8's are as common as dirt and parts are available all over the place to make them run better and go fast. Parts are extremely reasonable for them.

 
Search this Thread