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'97 Chevy K-1500 EVO sensor


jgall's Avatar
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04-08-02, 08:22 PM   #1  
jgall
'97 Chevy K-1500 EVO sensor

I have a 1997 5.7L 350 Chevy K-1500 with 93,000 miles that has been having lots of play in the steering wheel. The dealer said it was the Electronic Variable Oriface (EVO) sensor, and that this problem was not uncommon on my truck. The part is available through the dealer, but the over the counter manuals (Chilton's & Haynes) do not address this. I hope you can help me with the removal & installation procedure, if it can be done through the engine compartment or if the steering column must be removed, and what the risk of airbag deployment is (there is a large warning sticker about this on the bottom of the steering shaft).

Additionally, on an unrelated topic regarding the same vehicle, if I think I have water in the gas tank and fuel system (it shut down 1/2 mile after a fill-up of a pretty low tank this morning), how do I get the water out and get it restarted. The fuel pump, which I replaced 18 months ago, sounds normal and the engine is turning over. The only thing I haven't tried is replacing the fuel filter, which I will do tomorrow. But I wanted expert advice in case the new fuel filer deosn't work. The relay and fuse are both okay. Thanks!

 
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04-08-02, 08:26 PM   #2  
Billdo49er
I wouldn't suggest that a do it yourselfer try to work on a column that is equipped with an air bag as it can be a tricky and costly repair.

As far as water in tank. Just add some dry gas.It can be found at any parts store.

 
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04-09-02, 05:50 AM   #3  
Joe_F
I agree with Bill.

Change your filter as it is a maintenance, not failure item. That being said, if you still have problems after the dry gas, do a pump output/pressure check to be sure you didn't get a bad pump.

 
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04-09-02, 04:39 PM   #4  
You should have steering handwheel speed sensor or steering assist control solenoid on your truck not evo sensor.If you pm me an email addy I will send info from GM service manual on both and air bag disable.So on to your fuel problem I doubt its water in your tank.From your post your new pump was as old (now)as the one it replaced about 46k miles 2 and 1/2 years.When you run your tank low your pump can get hot,then you fill it up smacking it with cold gas,result bad pump.Try spraying carb cleaner in the intake if it starts replace your pump.GM trucks will not start if your pressure drops 2 to 3 psi below the rated pressure which by the way they have just increased the pressure specs.

 
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04-09-02, 06:50 PM   #5  
jgall
follow-up

Still not starting...tried the fuel filter, the dry gas, and starting fluid, but no luck. There is a strong gas smell when I crank it. It smells like it is flooding. Additionally, I can hear the pump. Could we be barking up the wrong tree, or could the pump just not be working enough to get (& keep) the engine running?

 
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04-09-02, 08:17 PM   #6  
Joe_F
What's the fuel pressure at?

Have spark and fuel during the trouble? Anything in the links in my signature file? (Start there first and let us know what you find)

 
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04-11-02, 08:46 PM   #7  
jgall
started,but...

I changed the fuel filter, drained the gas, checked all electrical connections, cleaned sparkplug connections & checked that the connections were secure at the plugs & distributor cap & IT STARTED! Idled for 10 min., then on the test drive, the engine got really rough above 2000 rpm. Returned home where it died after idling for 20 seconds. It will still start and idle for 20-30 seconds then die, or if I hold 2000 rpm it's fine. Increase rpm over 2000, the engine gets REALLY rough & will stall unless we go back to the magic 2000 rpm. I did get a fuel pressure guage, but need to exchange it. The connection was the wrong size. Does the roughness over 2000 rmp rule out the idle air control valve? Would the OBD II give us the answer?

 
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04-12-02, 07:49 AM   #8  
Joe_F
Always start with the basics.

Check your fuel pump pressure once you get the right gauge.

OBDII is a computer system for diagnostics in the truck. You need a scanner that is OBDII compliant to read codes from it. You can try renting one from Autozone.

One step at a time here or it will get vastly expensive.

 
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04-12-02, 04:13 PM   #9  
jgall
Fuel Pressure

Pressure is at 60 psi with the ignition on, then drops to 57-58 psi when the engine is started. Autozone has the code scanners you can use if you can get the vehicle to the store, but not to rent. But it was worth a shot, I had to exchange the fuel pressure gauge anyway. Did I mention the noise like a faint electrical short just before it stalls?


Last edited by jgall; 04-13-02 at 04:45 PM.
 
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04-13-02, 03:48 PM   #10  
jgall
Code 1345

Code scanner reads 1345.. "Camshaft to crankshaft correletion fault." Does this mean a timing problem? I thought I read about testing your timing chain by having a helper crank the engine with the distributor cap removed and if the rotor moves the timing belt is not broken? Is that right? I couldn't find that posting anywhere. Replaced throttle position sensor (before I got the code scanner) and that wasn't it. Any ideas?

 
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04-13-02, 04:44 PM   #11  
jgall
not the timing belt

The rotor moved when the engine was cranked. Any more ideas.

 
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04-13-02, 08:44 PM   #12  
Joe_F
Nah, probably not a timing chain problem.

I would lean more to a cam or crank sensor issue (or burned wires going to one of them) before that.

Any bulletins or issues show up in Alldata.com that match your problems?

Let us know what you find.

 
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04-13-02, 10:50 PM   #13  
jgall
Throwin' in the towel

The Autozone guy thought it might be one of the sensors as well. Will give that a try. After I got the distributor cap back on it quit stalling & is driving fine. Although I cleared out the codes with the scanner, the service engine light keeps coming back on after about 30 seconds (with the same code). I'll get some help to use the code scanner while driving to see if any other codes come into play. After that I'll probably take it in. I'll let you know what I find out.

 
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