oil leak

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  #1  
Old 04-12-02, 06:17 PM
martymatty
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Question oil leak

oil seem to be coming from v covers. changed but leak come back. canged covers ,leaks seem gone but came back the frist hard long run. nothing over 60. 260,00 miles on motor ,seem to run just fine. a little slow on pick up at times. i drive a chevy van g 20 4.3 work truck , so there is alway a load on it. HELP!!!! THANKS
 
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  #2  
Old 04-12-02, 07:37 PM
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sounds like your engine may just be tired and wornout with that many miles it likely has so much blowby you will never fix the oil leaks short of a complete engine rebuild or replacement.
 
  #3  
Old 04-12-02, 07:46 PM
martymatty
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oil leak

bejay alas i was hoping to keep it running for a mouth or so. wife can,t decide what she wants. got to get it first. she has been wait a yaer or so . but truck got to make money. ? if i lighten the load ,keep speed down maybe huh????
 
  #4  
Old 04-12-02, 10:18 PM
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Back when I was a kid, we used to "fix" those leaky Chevrolet rocker arm covers with double gaskets (those were cork) and plenty of Felpro Form-a-Gasket and slightly longer bolts. It's looks terrible, it's not the right way to do it, but it may buy you couple of months and keep oil off of your driveway. Either way, be sure to keep an eye on your oil level.

Good Luck
 
  #5  
Old 04-13-02, 09:46 AM
Joe_F
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This motor is likely very tired. Do you see a lot of oil in your breather or air cleaner? If you do, make sure your PCV system is working right.

Put a new PCV valve and clean out the ports and put a new PCV hose. Snug it all down and let's go from there. A bad PCV system will cause a lot of headaches.

The valve, the hose, and a new grommet shouldn't cost you more than a couple of bucks.

If you still get a lot of oil in the air cleaner after you've done all this, the motor is on borrowed time.

What weight oil are you using? How often do you change it? You should be using 10W40 or 20W50 depending on how bad things are there.

Try the PCV system fix first.
 
  #6  
Old 04-13-02, 03:37 PM
martymatty
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oil leak

joe f changed pcv not hose on vaccum on line. i started to think about crankcase ventilation.can run motor even turn up rpms in park . no leak ???? only under load. thank for reply
 
  #7  
Old 04-13-02, 03:42 PM
martymatty
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oil leak

dirty dan not worry about oil on driveway, don't want smoke screen. leaking on manafold, smoking bad.
 
  #8  
Old 04-13-02, 08:50 PM
Joe_F
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Make sure you are using good valve covers. Additionally, what brand of gaskets are you using? Only use Felpro.

That being said, do you get any oil in the air cleaner? If so, how much. How clean is the PCV line?

Are you sure it's coming from the valve covers and not somewhere else?
 
  #9  
Old 04-14-02, 03:59 AM
martymatty
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oilleak

Joe F thats the kind i am using.air cleaner in good shape, no oil to say.it seem to be blowing back from front of motor. in van can not get fat head in there to see . i left the dip stick part the way out , drove a mile or so . oil every where. ac smog ,alt,ps and shroud in way of good look.uit is the passager sid cover leaking only thats where smoke comes from and where i can see the oil on everything
 
  #10  
Old 04-14-02, 07:38 AM
Joe_F
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Are you sure you don't have a bad oil pressure switch?

Do this..

Completely gunk down the engine with engine cleaner. Change the oil and filter. Fill it to the proper level.

Now the engine is clean.

Take the doghouse off the engine from the inside. Now drive the thing to simulate the problem.

Where is the oil coming from now? That should be your answer. You have too much oil all over everything now to know
 
  #11  
Old 04-14-02, 03:21 PM
martymatty
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oilleak

cleaned motor. had someone drive for ten min. no problem.did fine vac tube in crab clogged. dug it out still some brun off. ill know for sure monday. thanks lots. cost wise would i be better with rebuild motor ero a z or do it my self.
 
  #12  
Old 04-14-02, 04:05 PM
Joe_F
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Thumbs up

Ah, says Joe

This will cause a big gazorch with oil leaks (a bad PCV system).

It may have solved your problem. Let us know.

If it needs a rebuilt motor, you'd fare better with a Goodwrench rebuilt motor. You get a guarantee and you get updated parts for durability.

That being said, make sure the rest of the truck is worth the greenbacks for a rebuilt motor if you get to that point. Might be worth it to pitch it for something better.
 
  #13  
Old 04-14-02, 05:02 PM
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Fel Pro

I have only Chevys and believe it or not they don't have leaky VCs. I use Fel-Pro Gaskets 99.9% of the time. The other Gaskets I use are Mr. Gasket extra thick 7/16" Valve cover Gaskets.

Hey it's the only ones, I can keep a Chevy from leaking up top. If you have one you know the mess they make. If you do just 2 things, it will solve that pesky Valve cover leaking problem, it's not your PCV, valve I run 2 K&N filters and no PCV valve. Why suck dirty air? When your after horses

Buy the Mr. Gasket 7/16" of an inch extra thick, Valve Cover Gaskets, then get the Mr. Gasket, Valve cover spreaders, for where they got the 4 bolts. Not for looks, no sir but because Chevy only put 4 bolts instead of 6. Duh no wonder they leak George, can I pet the wabbits George

Clean your VCs real good, and take a little contact Cement and line up the way the gaskets go onto the VCs & coat the side that will stick on the VC. Let the glue dry, for 15 minutes and put them on the VCs, be careful, to lay them on easy it will stick quick, if you miss You can do it, Yea!

Now take the VCs and push them gasket side down, to seal them. Take a small amount of oil on your finger and coat the side that goes onto the engine. Don't crank those cork gaskets down to 50 Lbs of torque. Just tighten past snug, the cork will swell up big time, and you should get at least a year and a half or two out of Mr. Gaskets best Gaskets for stoping Chevy VC leaks. Works great for us, I hate that smoking mess, when they drool down the back of the engine.
 
  #14  
Old 04-14-02, 08:40 PM
Joe_F
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I agree with Marturo, except keep your PCV system.

A PCV does NOT sap ponies. Sometimes it will HELP the engine

If your state has visual or emission inspections, your goose is cooked if you remove it.
 
  #15  
Old 04-14-02, 09:10 PM
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Also make sure your valve covers aren't bent and distorted from overtightening. They won't ever seal right if they're bent at the holes. I agree about the spreaders, they do the trick.
 
  #16  
Old 04-14-02, 10:03 PM
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Keep it in

Joes right on the mark, if you have a 1968 and up & I am using an early figure, for those of you in Ca. Keep your Positive Crankcase Ventalation, hose and valve hooked up. However don't blame a small suction hose and an off idle shut off valve, for your oil leaks.

Oil leaks come from comprimised sealing surfaces. In almost every case you can put your trust in Fel-Pro. The one unfortunated case, is the poorly designed Valve Covers on some GM Engines. If you glue one side of your VC gaskets on your VCs, that's one leak you will never have to worry about.

Cork works by swelling up like a wine cork does in a bottle. Have you seen people who know about wine, they always keep the bottle on it's side. That is to keep the cork from drying out and leaking air into the wine.

Rubber VC gaskets are the worst, putting 2 gaskets together gives you 3 places to leak through. A little gasket & sticker remover cleans up the contact cement, when it comes time for a change. The VC hold down spreaders, give you 12 contact points, instead or 4 to hold your VCs down lightly but all over, so the Cork can do it's work.

I repaired VC gaskets, where they had cranked down so hard that the cork was smashed in two and pouring oil out everywhere. Snug um and run it down 1 more turn, and if it still weeps after a day or so, give it 1/4 turn more, and that should keep you leak free.

While we are on the subjuct of gaskets. Once upon a time there was Permetex #1 & 2 a steel gasket was used with holes and slots to hold this goo. It worked in fact it worked so well we had to chisel the heads & intakes off the block.

Fast foward to today: I read a note sliped into a box with a set of Fel-Pro gaskets some time ago. It said. Fel- Pro gaskets are made with the finest sealing materals we can develop. Please do not use gasket sealers, as you will undo the benefits of our sealing technology.

I have seen the light, from a timing light right through the head, Cylinder area of a running Motorcycle. How could that be?
Easy, the parts in your whole car, move when running. Can you see why Fel-Pro uses Teflon as a sealing surface on a gasket, between two moving parts, & why it doesen't get torn up like the old solid gaskets of yesteryear?

Now just think how well cork will seal if you let it swell instead of crushing it upon applying it in the begining. You would not put a new oil filter on without oiling the rubber sealing ring, so why put cork gaskets on dry. If you don't glue your gasket on to your VC, and oil the block contact side. What do you think will happen when you go to take it off, just for a look. Yep broken cork pieces all over the VCs & heads.
 

Last edited by marturo; 04-23-02 at 08:52 AM.
  #17  
Old 04-15-02, 08:08 PM
martymatty
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oil leak

THANKS to you all. haxe not tried everything yet ,but done from 3or 4 two about 1 qt a day. beleive problem more crank ventalion than any thing else. i do know that i will brun some with the miles i got . thats alright, as long as i can see poeple in the car at the stop light.is there any to help vent case with out major work
 
  #18  
Old 04-16-02, 05:49 AM
Joe_F
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If fixing your crankcase ventilation doesn't work, the engine is on borrowed time and it will get worse. Use thicker oil. Start with 10W40 and then if it still burns that, go to 20W50.

If it burns that, time for a rebuild of the engine or pitch the truck for something better.

But first, fix your PCV system!
 
  #19  
Old 04-18-02, 03:40 PM
martymatty
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oilleak

JoeF found where oil comes from i believe it my dip stick. try to change it but can't get it working. seems like they all bend and can't get stick back in. do i have to remove exhuast . please said no thanks again
 
  #20  
Old 04-18-02, 05:13 PM
Joe_F
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First, get a new dipstick, tube and seal from GM.

Then the old one should just pull right out and the new one press in.
 
  #21  
Old 04-18-02, 11:57 PM
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I had a terrible time changing mine on my 305. It took an act of congress to get my new one pressed into the block. I know what you're going through. I finally got it in with a long 3/8" drive extension and a crowfoot wrench on the end of it. I placed the wrench...3/8" I think...on the tube above the flange and hammered the other end of the extension to drive it in. Even then it was an ordeal. Good luck!
 
  #22  
Old 04-22-02, 01:56 PM
martymatty
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oilleak

to Joe F. and all of oil under control. thank you
 
  #23  
Old 04-22-02, 03:11 PM
Joe_F
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Question

?????

Is it fixed? What solved the problem? Can't tell from your reply.
 
  #24  
Old 04-24-02, 03:18 PM
martymatty
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oil leak

problem under control. not fixed oil presurer gauge peg out have reset it but it did it again. just pushed the needle back around to 0, it not a worry. useing about quart in a day and a haft. now gas mileage is the thing. that at another forum. thanks Joe F. and all of you.
 
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