Clutch Replacement

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  #1  
Old 04-19-02, 09:29 AM
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Unhappy Clutch Replacement

Question. I have a 93 ford probe 2.5L 5 speed. I need to replace the clutch and was curious if anyone has ever done one in their driveway? I've never done a front wheel drive clutch before and am not sure if it is even possible. If it is, will I need any special tools? Please advise.
 
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  #2  
Old 04-19-02, 11:16 AM
Joe_F
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It's possible, but it's a major PITA without a lift and without access to air tools and the like.

This is one thing that without the proper tools, it's worth considering having done. Have you gotten quotes on replacing it through a shop?
 
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Old 04-19-02, 01:09 PM
JackMaster
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Clutch Replacement

Joe, this is definitely something you can do in your driveway. I have done numerous jobs in my driveway, simply because I do not have a shop. I am not sure whether this particular vehicle will require you pulling the engine to change the clutch (some vehicles do, some don't). If so, you will need to borrow or rent an engine hoist (cherry picker). All that is required is handtools, however air is nice if available. I would strongly suggest you purchase a "Haynes" manual for this vehicle and study the section covering clutch replacement to determine whether you need to in fact pull the engine or not. Good Luck and don't rush, be patient. Give yourself 3-5 days depending on the number of hours per day you can work on it and how many "knowledgable friends are helping you.
 
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Old 04-19-02, 01:22 PM
Joe_F
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Given the 3 to 5 day lead time, he may not have that...so it's worth a quote from a shop.

I agree, but depending on his ability. All depends. Not only that, but the flywheel will have to be machined and he may be in a rush to get the car going.

It's worth weighing both options.
 
  #5  
Old 04-19-02, 08:00 PM
Billdo49er
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The tranny drops down and as Joe F states it is a real PITA to do in a driveway.Unless he's strong enough to pull trans out while laying down on his back.And to put it back in.(holding it up and wiggling it to get the shaft to line up.) And have enough room under car to pull trans out from underneath.
I would do as Joe F says and let a pro do it.The $$ is worth less then the headache.
 
  #6  
Old 04-19-02, 08:58 PM
knuckles
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Here's the procedure, courtesy of Alldata. Read through it & decide for yourself if you're capable of completing the job.

NOTE:

The OEM procedure calls for a number of special tools. The only one you'll really need is the engine support. You'll also need a good set of basic hand tools, an axle nut socket & a torque wrench, as well as a good floor jack with a large base plate and a good set of jack stands.

A good aftermarket clutch kit will come with a clutch alignment tool. For what it's worth, this job pays 5.2-5.9 hours. Add .4 hours if the flywheel has to be removed for machining. Machining is only necessary if the flywheel is heat damaged (blue in color, heat checked or heat cracked) or if it is excessively worn.


Removal and Installation

REMOVAL


Remove air cleaner assembly and fresh air duct.
Remove battery and battery tray, then transaxle ground strap bolts and straps.
Disconnect Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) electrical connector from top RH rear corner of transaxle.
Disconnect Park/Neutral Position (PNP) switch electrical connector from lower front of transaxle.
Disconnect back-up lamp switch electrical connector from rear of transaxle.
Disconnect two spring clips from clutch slave cylinder line. It is not necessary to disconnect clutch slave cylinder line from slave cylinder.
Remove two slave cylinder attaching bolts and position slave cylinder aside.
Install engine support tool No. 014-00750 or equivalent, then remove upper transaxle to engine attaching bolts.
Remove two upper starter motor bolts. It is not necessary to disconnect fuel lines from fuel filter.
Remove two fuel filter attaching nuts and position fuel filter aside.
Remove two nuts and through bolt from lefthand transaxle mount.
Raise and support vehicle.
On models equipped with 2.0L/121 engine, remove intake manifold support bracket bolts, then bracket.
On all models, disconnect S-terminal wire nut.
Remove B-terminal wire nut, then disconnect B-terminal wire.
Remove lower starter motor bolt, then starter.
Drain transaxle fluid into suitable container, then discard drain plug washer.
Remove front tire and wheel assemblies.
Unstake halfshaft attaching nuts. Remove and discard halfshaft attaching nuts.
Remove lower splash shields.
Remove six transverse member bolts, then lower transverse member from vehicle.
Remove bolt and nut from lefthand lower ball joint. Pry lower arm down to separate ball joint from knuckle.
Pull lower edge of spindle outward to separate it from end of halfshaft.
Use prybar to remove end of lefthand halfshaft from transaxle case. Pry between transaxle case and halfshaft.
Install transaxle plug tool No. T-88C-7025-AH or equivalent. Failure to install transaxle plugs may allow differential side gears to become misaligned.
Remove other end of halfshaft from steering knuckle and remove from vehicle.
On models equipped with Antilock Brake System (ABS) , remove clips from wheel speed sensor and wheel speed sensor nuts from wheel speed sensor harness mount on lefthand side of vehicle.
On models equipped with 2.5L/V6-152 engine, proceed as follows:
Disconnect both Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) electrical connectors.
Remove three converter inlet pipe to exhaust manifold nuts from both exhaust converter inlet pipes. Discard nuts.
Lower exhaust system far enough to gain access to righthand halfshaft support bearing.
On all models, remove three halfshaft support bearing bolts.
On models equipped with ABS, remove clips from wheel speed sensor and wheel speed sensor nuts from wheel speed sensor harness mount on lefthand side of vehicle.
On all models, remove nut and bolt from righthand lower ball joint.
Pry lower arm down to separate ball joint from knuckle.
Pull lower edge of spindle outward to separate it from halfshaft. Failure to install transaxle plugs may allow differential side gears to become misaligned.
Pull righthand halfshaft from transaxle case and install transaxle plug tool No. T88C-7025-AH, or equivalent.
Remove six nuts and two bolts from transaxle cradle.
Disconnect transaxle shift linkage and extension bar from transaxle.
Remove three rear transaxle mount to transaxle bolts. Support transaxle with transmission jack.
Remove three rear transaxle mount bolts and rear transaxle mount.
Remove lower transaxle to engine attaching bolts, then separate transaxle from engine and lower transaxle from vehicle.
INSTALLATION


Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
Apply a thin coating of clutch grease or equivalent to the spline of the input shaft.
Install a new washer on transaxle drain plug.
Install new halfshaft retaining nuts.
Copyright 2002 ALLDATA LLC.



I agree w/ Joe_F & Billdo49er that it may not be worth the time & aggravation to attempt this job in the driveway.
 
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