A/C compressor squealing

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  #1  
Old 04-22-02, 01:57 PM
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A/C compressor squealing

93 chrysler concorde - v6, 3.3L - The compressor is squealing and I know it's not the belt. I don't know much about a/c compressors, but it sounds like bearings are going out or something. The air still blows really cold, so I am hoping that I can just replace a bearing - is this possible. I do almost all work on my cars, so I can handle it if I get some info. Thanks , Nick
 
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  #2  
Old 04-22-02, 03:09 PM
Joe_F
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No, not a DIY job. Unfortunately, most A/C repairs today are not without the right tools.

Special tools are required to replace the bearings. Most cost effective way is to replace the unit with a good quality rebuild.

If the clutch is bad, perhaps you can service that yourself. Barring that, compressor replacemet time

Unfortunately that means to discharge the system to replace the compressor . Make sure it is your problem first and then bring it to a shop to reclaim the R12. You can do the R&R of the compressor yourself and have the same shop charge it back up for you. Replace all the gaskets on the compressor and also check the whole system out for problems.
 
  #3  
Old 04-22-02, 05:04 PM
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Thanks for the quick reply. Can you tell me how I would know if it is the clutch or not? Can the screeching sound be a bad compressor? Also, if I do replace compressor, is it a must to also replace drier and orifice tube? I just called the the drier and O-tube are $150! Thanks again, Nick

P.S. My wife took car in last year - A/C was not cooling. R12 had leaked out - they replaced a seal and refilled it with R134. They said that they do this on all systems as R12 was so expensive and there have not been any problems with simple conversion. Could this be problem?
 

Last edited by nbjmiller; 04-22-02 at 05:23 PM.
  #4  
Old 04-22-02, 06:06 PM
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nbjmiller:
If they did not remove the compressor then drain and change the oil, the squeal could be from a shortage of oil.
Old type mineral oil will not circulate with R 134A. The oil is most likely sitting in the evaperator coil, where it does your compressor no good. (It would be interesting to hear if this is the case.)

If you remove the belt from the compressor you can check the clutch bearing. Often times you can spin it by hand and hear a bad bearing or move it to check for play.
 
  #5  
Old 04-23-02, 05:52 AM
Joe_F
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I agree. Sounds like a hokey repair by the shop to me. You cannot mix and match parts when "converting" to 134A from R12.

The ORIGINAL parts are seldom compatible with both refrigerants. Replacement parts can work with both. There is no "fix" in a can or a kit to convert 134 from 12. It depends on the vehicle and system.

Sometimes you need quite a few parts to properly swap over to 134A. R12 hoses are not usuallly barrier type hoses, which 134 needs to work correctly and prevent leaks. Also, many O-rings are made now to work with both refrigerants.

You can't just juice up a system with 134A with a few dollars in parts. You can use R12 replacements in R12 applications. Some work better than others. I used Autofrost in my 84 Olds and it worked great. Original system, excepting new O-rings and an orifice screen.

Go back to the shop that did the repair and get more detail and possible resolution to your problem.
 
  #6  
Old 04-23-02, 05:30 PM
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I took belt off and the pulley is wobbly - looks like bad bearing. I am about to sell the car in couple of months - are you sure there is no way to get to that bearing?! Buy a whole new compressor because of bad bearing...does not make sense.
 
  #7  
Old 04-23-02, 06:17 PM
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nbjmiller:
It is most likely the clutch bearing which is outside the sealed system.
If the pulley section is loose then the clutch bearing would be the problem.
If the cluch plate at the front of the compressor is loose then it could be the compressor bearings. It is unlikely though because the shaft seal would also be gone along with all the refrigerant.
Normally there is a bolt on the front of the compressor.After removing it a larger bolt goes in to act as a puller for the clutch disk. Don't pry on the disk or you will ruin the plate springs and you'll have to buy a new clutch ass'y.

http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/AC.html#clutch
 
  #8  
Old 04-23-02, 06:18 PM
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You need special tools.some newer compressors are not field serviceable,try to find a good used compressor.Good Luck
 
  #9  
Old 04-24-02, 02:37 PM
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I fixed it - runs smooth. I did need special tools: 2 standard screwdrivers. Took the bolt off, no place for larger bolt - so I pryed gently from both sides of the clutch outer plate at same time - came right off. took off lock ring, matched bearing at auto parts store, pressed new one in. Thanks for info GregH!!!
 
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