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anyone know about a EST or ESC sensor


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04-23-02, 06:22 PM   #1  
thekeymaker
anyone know about a EST or ESC sensor

for a 1988 chevy astro van with a 4.3 motor as to where they are located i was told i have some type of electronic misfire anyone have a idea what might be wrong or how to figure it out i think it might be one of the two but not sure where or if i have them and if i do where are they located. Don,

 
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04-23-02, 07:07 PM   #2  
Joe_F
They could mean a knock sensor.

Take a look at the links in my signature file for more information.

Don: Did you ever order the OE book for your van?

 
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04-24-02, 05:42 AM   #3  
thekeymaker
Joe Wells Part Number for the ESC. is ESC104 it looks no where near a Knock Sensor. and no i never ordered the book. Don, I'm also thinking of getting rid of this van got to much money stuck into it for repairs and it needs shocks front end alignment Again three times in less then a year engine needs to be rebuilt and all the other ones i find are high mileage along with the price tag. Don,

 
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04-24-02, 06:28 AM   #4  
Joe_F
Don,

The truck sounds extremely problematic and a "put together". I do not think it's worth putting any real money into.

You've spent a lot of time and effort on it. Spend a little more and get something in better shape. From your posts and descriptions, I do not trust that this vehicle is realistically in good shape. It has had way too many hands in it.

The only other thing they may be talking about is an ESC module that looks like a computer chip (flat) that goes on top of the computer or distributor area and controls spark timing.

 
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04-24-02, 08:00 AM   #5  
thekeymaker
yes Joe that is it goes around the dist. but i cant find it would like to tell if it is bad or not anyone have any suggestions. Don,

 
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04-24-02, 09:14 AM   #6  
Joe_F
Any parts store can test it.

Don, again, what about the OE book you ordered? What does it have to say?

How about the links in my signature file below? What do they say?

 
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04-24-02, 10:05 AM   #7  
thekeymaker
Joe i have to find it First and as to the Links its either a code 42 or 45 for the EST. as for the OE Book I havent Ordered it don't feel its worth $120.00 for something i may not be keeping. Don,

 
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04-24-02, 10:24 AM   #8  
Joe_F
Don,

Looking through the internet or various links, it is likely cheaper than 120 for a new book. Used is as good as new in this case.

I agree, if you're going to pitch the truck (and I believe you should as you can get better for your money) then yes, the book is not a wise investment.

That being said, if you look in every post I make there is a signature file. The link for the service manual information is www.autolibrary.org.

It has the basics, but the better stuff is only found in the stuff you have to pay for .

 
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04-24-02, 10:41 AM   #9  
thekeymaker
so i guess no one knows where the EST sensor or the ESC one is Either ok I guess I'll take it in then since this aint working Either plus i cant find it in the autolibray either Don,

 
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04-24-02, 11:29 AM   #10  
Joe_F
Don,

Depends on the system. A GM dealer's parts counter should be able to locate it in a few keystrokes. If you are pitching the truck or thinking about it, why bother fixing it and incurring the expense?

 
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04-24-02, 12:37 PM   #11  
thekeymaker
I want to Fix it so i can save money on the Gas also if i get rid of it want to find something better but i doubt i will also tryed getting a tool from the Dealer the Kid told me to try Snapon or go talk to service Go Figure. I Guess No One Knows IF this is on a 1988 Astro or is My Repair Manual Messed up.

 
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04-24-02, 09:02 PM   #12  
code 42 sets when you set timing on the vehicle and has nothing to do with the esc module or knock sensor if you had a problem with the esc module or knock sensor it would set a code 43 , if your check engine light is always on you may want to make sure the connector for setting timing is connected it is a single wire connector wire color tan with a black stripe located near the distributer along the back of the intake.
code 45 is rich exhaust, and if you havent cleared codes to see if any of the codes return you should do so now because most likely code 42 will not return and was never cleared from the computer last time the timing was set.

 
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04-25-02, 06:22 AM   #13  
thekeymaker
Bejay Joe mentioned not to mess with the timing on this vehicle says it sets it automatically. not sure if i should but is there a ECM on my vehicle if there is what or how do i go about SAFELY installing it without messing up the timing. Don,

 
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04-25-02, 08:08 AM   #14  
Joe_F
You set base timing by disconnecting the connector. Typically this is done when you disturb the base timing (doing a timing chain).

Moving the timing around on an old time car is vastly different than a modern car with the computer controlling things. That is why you disconnect the electrical connector when you set BASE timing .

Your problem is likely elsewhere Don. This truck sounds riddled with problems. I would think and plan repairs and expenses on it before shelling out good money after bad.

If you're stating it needs front end work, has electrical troubles and has other problems, in my mind that is putting good money after bad. Your truck, so I can't tell you what to do, but I would have pitched this thing a long time ago knowing it's riddled with problems and too many hands have been in it.

My .02

 
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04-25-02, 09:24 AM   #15  
thekeymaker
Joe how can i tell what is wrong with the front end and if i pitch this now all i'll probally do is get another one so i guess i'm stuck with it. how do i know where this tan wire is and wont that mess things up if i touch it. Don,

 
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04-25-02, 12:58 PM   #16  
Joe_F
Don,

What do the links in in autolibrary.org say? Again, I REALLY suggest you pick up a repair manual for the truck if you plan on keeping/repairing it. It's the set of eyes we cannot be. You are there at the truck, we are miles away

As for what's wrong with the front end, there are various ways to tell what's wrong and what's acceptable play. How many miles on the van? I would gather at this age a good amount of the front end is quite worn.

Chances are if you pitch the truck, you'll find a better one with less mileage and it WILL be worth the investment for the service manual .

 
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04-25-02, 01:37 PM   #17  
thekeymaker
Joe not much but found out a ESC is a knock sensor so i guess i'll try replacing that all the vehicles i've seen are high priced even with high mileage never did see someone sell a reliable car that there wasnt something wrong with it. Don,

 
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04-26-02, 02:29 AM   #18  
Keymaker,
Not sure about your engine , but on small block chevy of your vintage, the ESC (knock sensor) is located on the side of the block just above and in front of the starter motor. This sensor is round and has one wire leading to it.
The EST is located next to the MAP sensor on the passenger's side of the TBI unit. It is square and has a four-wire connector. I think that each of these cost around $30.00.
It will not hurt to disconnect your EST (black and tan wire connector close to brake booster) and check your ignition timing. The correct timing should be on a label under the hood.
Let us know what works out for you.
(After you set your timing you will need to clear the code from your ECM.)

 
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04-26-02, 05:59 AM   #19  
thekeymaker
dirty dan i found the ESC in the haynes manual so i'll most likely replacing that this weekened weather permitting the only problem is that i dont know what the EST looks like now for the ESC when i replace it how many foot lbs do i need and what type of water base caulk do i use on the ESC a.k.a. knock sensor Don,

 
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04-26-02, 07:55 AM   #20  
Joe_F
Caulk? I think you mean dielectric grease?

If it doesn't come with the new part, the parts store will have the needed grease. Not all applications would require it. Ignition modules (the one in the distributor itself) require it and come with the needed grease.

DO NOT use anything other than the recommended grease. It is there for heat transfer. A new unit will easily be destroyed with the wrong stuff.

 
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04-26-02, 09:12 AM   #21  
thekeymaker
Joe i'm going by what the instructions say from AutoLibrary.org To Install 4. Apply a water base caulk to the knock sensor threads and install the sensor in the engine block. WARNING Do not use silicon tape to coat the knock sensor threads as this will insulate the sensor from the engine block

 
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04-26-02, 09:27 AM   #22  
Joe_F
The sensor itself usually has the required sealant applied to the threads. I would stick with that.

 
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04-26-02, 10:08 AM   #23  
Like Joe said, the sensor will usually have a sealer on it from the supplier. If not, you can use any pipe dope or teflon tape just like you would on plumbing. The sensor screws into the water jacket and all you're trying to do is keep from developing a water leak. I can't tell you what to torque it to. Snug enough to keep it from leaking, not so tight that you break it. More like a spark plug than a head bolt! LOL.

The EST's that I've seen are mounted to a bracket next to the MAP sensor on the passengers side of the throttle body. It is flat and square (maybe 1-1/2" or 2") and has a four wire (all in a line) connector that plugs into one end. It should be the only little black square in that area that doesn't have a vacuum hose connected to it.

 
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04-26-02, 11:15 AM   #24  
thekeymaker
ok since i'm tightening it down do i have to drain the coolant before i do this and is plumbers tape a silicon tape. Don,

 
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04-26-02, 11:30 AM   #25  
Joe_F
Don,

Just see what comes with the part when you buy it. If it has red thread sealer on the threads, don't put anything else.

Since the knock sensor doesn't go into a cooling jacket, you should be able to remove the old and replace it with the new.

Again, as I have said, if you're going to keep the van, get the OE manual as most of your questions and concerns are answered there .

 
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04-26-02, 05:31 PM   #26  
thekeymaker
Joe the knock sensor does have the red stuff on it but the thing is now. how tight do i torque it to also with my luck as soon as i get the O.E. Manual my engine will seize. Don,

 
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04-26-02, 06:16 PM   #27  
Joe_F
Don,

Tighten it with a wrench until it stops/feels tight. Should be good to go.

Again, don't put good money after bad if the truck is in as poor of shape as you are stating. Sell it as is or donate it and take a tax write off. You might come out ahead that way over selling it and not have to worry about the headache.

 
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04-27-02, 03:28 AM   #28  
thekeymaker
Joe can you look and check how many lbs it is supposed to be torqued to and do i have one or two knock sensors i beleive the esc is in front of the oil filter and could of sworn there was one over on the passenger side of the y-pipe also dan is correct about tightening it down with a torque wrench in the book. it says it can detonate if it is not. Don,

 
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04-27-02, 07:29 AM   #29  
Joe_F
Don,

Just tighten it snug enough . You should be fine. It's not going anywhere. A service manual or Alldata is the only other reference that would have that value. Perhaps Knuckles will see this and post what it is. He has Alldata access everywhere. I don't .

 
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