2001 suburban rear brake change

Old 04-26-02, 07:31 PM
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2001 suburban rear brake change

I have an 2001 Suburban and here's my deal -- I'm considering becoming a little more of a DIYer (do-it-youselfer) by doing regular brake work myself (pad replacement).

My prior experience includes changing oil & filters changing brake pads, rotors, shoes and drums on older cars and rotating tires. I've done spark plug replacements on other vehicles, too. I have a decent floor jack and jackstands and all the tools necessary. I've done all that listed above for many years, but I want to make sure tackled this rear brake pad replacement properly. I'm hoping through the use of this board I can get detail instruction on how to accomplish this task for this specific vehicle.

I have taken the rear wheels off and found the screws (pins) holding the calipers in position, however as I losen the bolts I can't figure out how to remove them. I also understand the need to push the piston back in so that the new pads will clear the rotor. However I've been told there's an ABS control module between the master cylender and the wheels. It controls line pressure when lock-up is detected. There's a little screen in that module that will get plugged up and kill your ABS if try to push the fluid back through it.

With my level of experience in mind and some of the issues I mentioned above, I would like suggestions/comments on my plan to work on these things myself.

It seems that the auto repair guides have not been published for a vehicle this new. Any suggestions in this area would be helpful, too.

Old 04-26-02, 07:35 PM
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Are your brakes actually worn out? The 2000-up GM trucks have awesome brake systems. Contractors & other fleet operators are reporting 80K + from a set of FRONT brake pads. Rears almost always last at least 2X as long as front pads.

Unless you have extremely high mileage, your brakes should not be worn out at this point.
Old 04-26-02, 07:42 PM
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Thanks for the quick response. I have 40,000 miles on the vehicle and upon examination of the rear brake pads the interior pad is almost completely gone. The outside pad is in good shape. This is my first suburban and I assumed 40,000 miles to be a decent life compared to other cars I've had.
Old 04-26-02, 07:59 PM
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OK then...let us know if it's a 1500 or 2500 & we can post the pad R&R procedure for you.
Old 04-26-02, 08:16 PM
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It's a 2001 - K1500, 4X4, with a 5.3 Liter engine.
Old 04-26-02, 08:38 PM
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Brake Pads Replacement - Rear 15 Series
Removal Procedure

Inspect the fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir.
If the brake fluid level is midway between the maximum--full point and the minimum allowable level, no brake fluid needs to be removed from the reservoir before proceeding.
If the brake fluid level is higher than midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, remove brake fluid to the midway point before proceeding.
Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Inspect the caliper operation. Refer to Brake Caliper Inspection .

Support the brake caliper with heavy mechanic's wire, or equivalent, whenever it is separated from it's mount and the hydraulic flexible brake hose is still connected. Failure to support the caliper in this manner will cause the flexible brake hose to bear the weight of the caliper, which may cause damage to the brake hose and in turn may cause a brake fluid leak.

Remove the caliper from the mounting bracket and support the caliper with heavy mechanic's wire or equivalent. DO NOT disconnect the hydraulic brake flexible hose from the caliper. Refer to Brake Caliper Replacement - Front .
Inspect the caliper assembly. Refer to Brake Caliper Inspection .
Remove the brake pads from the brake caliper bracket.
Remove the brake pad retainers from the brake caliper bracket.
Installation Procedure

Using a C-clamp, bottom the piston into the caliper bore. Use an old brake pad or wooden block placed across the face of the piston. Do not damage the piston or the caliper boot.

Use a small flat-bladed tool and lift the inner edge caliper boot next to the piston to release any trapped air.

Ensure that the piston boot is below the level of the piston face.

Install the brake pad retainers to the caliper bracket.

Ensure that the wear sensor is positioned at the leading edge (upward) of the inner pad during forward wheel rotation.

Install the brake pads over the brake pad retainers and onto the caliper bracket.
Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Lower the vehicle.
With the engine OFF, gradually apply the brake pedal to approximately 2/3 of it's travel distance.
Slowly release the brake pedal.
Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 7-8 until a firm pedal is obtained. This will properly seat the brake caliper pistons and brake pads.
Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level with clean brake fluid. Refer to Master Cylinder Reservoir Filling in Hydraulic Brakes.
Burnish the pads and the rotors.

Burnishing Pads and Rotors

Road Test Safety Caution
Road test a vehicle under safe conditions and while obeying all traffic laws. Do not attempt any maneuvers that could jeopardize vehicle control. Failure to adhere to these precautions could lead to serious personal injury and vehicle damage.

Burnishing the brake pads and brake rotors is necessary in order to ensure that the braking surfaces are properly prepared after service has been performed on the disc brake system.

This procedure should be performed whenever the disc brake rotors have been refinished or replaced, and/or whenever the disc brake pads have been replaced.

Select a smooth road with little or no traffic.
Accelerate the vehicle to 48 km/h (30 mph).

Use care to avoid overheating the brakes while performing this step.

Using moderate to firm pressure, apply the brakes to bring the vehicle to a stop. Do not allow the brakes to lock.
Repeat steps 2 and 3 until approximately 20 stops have been completed. Allow sufficient cooling periods between stops in order to properly burnish the brake pads and rotors.
Old 04-26-02, 08:53 PM
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Thank You!
Let me give this information a try tomorrow and I"ll let you know how it turns out.

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