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valve adjustment


cm3793's Avatar
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04-27-02, 04:52 PM   #1  
cm3793
valve adjustment

I have a 1992 k1500 silverado w/350. I cracked a head gasket. Removed and replaced both heads. Adjusted the valves according to haynes repair manual. Got everything back together and it will not turn over. I don't know if I have a compression problem or a spark problem. I'm going to start with a compression check then go from there. I marked the cap and rotor and put them back in the correct position. Adjusted the valves as specified in the #1 and #6 firing position. I replaced cap, rotor, wires, plugs, oxygen and coolant sensor, thermostat, air filter, oil filter. I had one of my old heads(passanger side) reworked and the other is a reman. I had everthing back together and was hoping to fire right up, but no such luck, now I'm not sure what to do first. Thanks for any help.

cm3793

 
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04-27-02, 07:33 PM   #2  
Joe_F
Check some of the links in my signature file below for some ideas.

 
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04-27-02, 08:01 PM   #3  
Valve adjustment

I adjust the valves on any small block with the engine running.
Do you feel as if this engine is turning over to quickly?

Just for starters, knowing that the hydralic lifters are empty. I simply turn the engine over a few times looking for loose rockers & turn down the nut just to get the slop out.

A loose rocker is one that has play that could loose a push rod. So all you want is very little contact. I think you are on the right track, by taking a compression check because you are looking for very little compression due colapsed lifters.

When you get the engine running just start at any rear valve and loosen up the nut until you get a clack clack clack. Then slowly turn down the nut until the clack just stops. The factory say go down 1 turn from 0 lash. Do this very slowly a 1/4 turn at a time until you get 1 turn down on all 16 valves from when the clack just stops.

Cut a long slot out of the top of an old valve cover right over the nuts, for an oil guard or get a setof the the oil hole block offs to cut down on the mess. The more you turn nuts down the further oil will squirt, out of the rocker hole where the push rod mates.

This is one engine you must adjust the valves when it is running. I know what the book says, but after trying it, I just went back to the clack, & 0 clack + 1 turn and go.

 
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04-27-02, 10:54 PM   #4  
When you say it won't turn over, do you mean it won't turn over as in the starter can't turn it, or do you mean it turns over but won't start?


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

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04-28-02, 06:53 PM   #5  
cm3793
Got it done.

Woke up this morning with a fresh outlook on my valve adjustment. Went back to 0 lash and started over. Got compression and just to be sure adjusted the valves with the engine running. Everything worked out just fine. Then, blew a freeze plug right over the starter. Changed the plug(not very easy to get out) apparently fried the starter. So in the morning I'll change the starter and hopefully I will be finished. Thanks for the suggestions. If I have any more problems I'll give you guys a shout.

cm3793

 
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04-28-02, 08:55 PM   #6  
glue those freeze

Use permatex #1 on your freeze plugs. That's the last thing you want to have to worry about. Don't change now, If you don't use #1 on those plugs, the little buggers will be popin out anytime.

Mr. Murfee calls them out without Permatex #1. I know it's not easy at this stage, but think about having one pop out at 1 am, in the not so great part of town.

 
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