R12 or Retro

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  #1  
Old 05-15-02, 05:52 PM
e1b1c1
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R12 or Retro

Thanks to everyone for your help. I found out the compressor is working. I have an R12 system. I called arround and got some high quotes on recharging. One shop however suggested retrofitting the A/C. He said he could do it for about $150. Is that a good way to go? Is that a good price? Is it something I can do myself? Thanks again!
 
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  #2  
Old 05-15-02, 05:57 PM
otter_
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nothing cools like R-12

R134A does not have the same heat transfer qualities that R12 does and therefore does not cool as efficiently. That being said, if you can get the system fixed and charged w/r12 without paying a kings ransom, I suggest you follow that route.

Things you'll find using R134A: inside of vehicle doesn't cool down as fast and the system may be "weak" at idle, stopped in traffic on a sweltering day.
 

Last edited by otter_; 05-16-02 at 07:57 AM.
  #3  
Old 05-15-02, 05:58 PM
Joe_F
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Each car varies as to what has to be changed to convert to R134A.

150 is way too cheap and sounds like a hokey install kit job, like the ones you buy in the parts store. More harm than good.

Type of vehicle?
 
  #4  
Old 05-15-02, 06:35 PM
e1b1c1
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vehicle type

The vehicle is a 1986 Bronco II

I was told to recharge with r12 it would cost somewhere in the ball park of $100/ lb and I would need about 3 lbs.

THat was at a local shop. I called a dealer and they said $80 to look for leaks. $70/lb to recharge, and then add in any leak repair that may be found. Is there any way I can find out if there is any coolant left in the system?

On that note, when I turn the clutch wheel by hand I hear a "whooshing" sound in the a/c lines.
 
  #5  
Old 05-15-02, 07:58 PM
Joe_F
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Usually the spring coupling O-rings leak on Fords causing refrigerant loss. If they look oily and blackened, your problem and leak is likely there.

Cars made to run on R12 run best when recharged with it. You'll likely have to swap over a lot to R134A. An old tired system like this will require some parts changing to accomodate R134A.

That and Fords are quite picky and don't take to blends/R12 replacements very well.
 
  #6  
Old 05-15-02, 08:29 PM
e1b1c1
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a/c ignorance

How can I find the spring couplings?
 
  #7  
Old 05-16-02, 03:43 AM
Joe_F
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Suggest you start by getting a repair manual or looking in the links in my signature file as mentioned before.....

Follow the lines coming from the condenser (the thing in front of the radiator). There should be round snap fittings inline that you'll see. They'll usually be caked with oil and grease.

The O-rings are inside there and a special tool (can get it at any parts store) is used to separate them.

This may be part of the problem, as this is a common issue with Ford. You'll need A/C gauges to properly charge the system. You might be able to rent them at a retailer like Autozone.
 
  #8  
Old 05-16-02, 08:38 PM
rickwhoo
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try the 30-40 dollar r134 kit. i used it in a bronco II and it worked better than r-12. every spring i would charge with r-12 and it would leak out by mid summer. did that for years and could never find leak. about 5 years ago i used r134 kit and it still works today.
 
  #9  
Old 05-18-02, 01:55 PM
trendar
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If your system is still in good shape, but simply doesn't work because of the chronic Ford-o-ring leak problems, it would be best to replace the o-rings with the updated green o-rings, which were reformulated to seal better than the original ones, which I consider defective. This would be something you could do yourself, if you're careful to clean it up throughly before opening it up, but to do the evac/recharge with R-12, you'll have to take it to a shop, seeing how the stuff is now one the evil substance list, and totally unavailable to the general public.
Don't just do a recharge, because that's money hissing away from the leaks in your system..
It's astounding how much the stuff costs now, considering before the ban, people were using it to blow dust off and freeze things for their amusement..
 
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