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rough running chrysler


wfleming's Avatar
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05-20-02, 07:47 PM   #1  
wfleming
rough running chrysler

1994 Chry LHS 3.5L 24vlv V6
car quit with no warning. would crank but not start. shop diagnosed it having 5 bad fuel inj. My warranty company demanded a 2nd opinion. The 2nd shop said it was a siezed water pump that heated and stretched the timing belt to jump time.They made repairs I returned the car because it was running rough and the air cond controls would not switch from def to bi-level also cruise control would not work. The mechanic said it was the O2 and map sensors. disconnected the batt for 24hrs and the a/c sensor reset itself. I replaced the sensors no change He claimed no vacuum leaks, he said to drive the car at hwy speeds for 20 min to let the computer reset everything.
The car started to cut in and out & ate lots of gas still running rough at idle. the check engine light came on. ???

 
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05-20-02, 08:03 PM   #2  
Joe_F
Back to the first mechanic who never seemed to really solve the problem. Make them correct the problem at no charge.

 
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05-21-02, 02:59 PM   #3  
wfleming
crappy chrysler

I tried from both mechanics to MAKE them fix it. That's the problem there is no one holding them accountable to any thing. The first shop charged me $135 to give me a bad diagnosis. The second shop fix the timing belt and water pump, but it came out of the shop running rough. He said "how do I know what it was running like before you towed it here. Both are dishonest and no help.

 
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05-21-02, 03:26 PM   #4  
The shop that did the timing belt and water pump needs to eat this,because I believe since it ran smooth prior to the repair, your camshafts are out of phase.Howevever if the 3.5 is an interferance engine and has bent valves its not theyre fault.They did not drive it until it died,but only if you have bent valves.Have them run a compression check to verify either condition,if they cant fix it take them to the local court,unless you used a credit card then just dispute the bill untill its resolved.

 
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05-21-02, 03:35 PM   #5  
I forgot if your check engine light is on have your codes checked,that may lead you in the right direction.Autozone and Advance will check them for free.

 
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05-21-02, 11:16 PM   #6  
I have to disagree here....If it is an interface engine, it IS the mechanics fault if the valves are bent and it's not running right. Any mechanic should know that you don't just replace a timing belt on an interface engine that has jumped time and be done. You must ALWAYS check for bent valves, and if they are, they get repaired. That is part of the job description when repairing an interface engine that has a ruined timing belt. If a mechanic doesn't know that, and follow that rule, he has no business being in business.

It sounds like that is your problem, as bent valves will effect your vacuum, set strange codes, and definitely cause power loss, rough running, and excessive fuel consumption.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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05-22-02, 03:59 AM   #7  
Joe_F
Rereading this, I found the bit about the timing belt in here.

Go to Gates Rubber Co's website and look up if the 3.5 is an interference engine or not.

If it is, as others have said, have a compression check done. If it reveals bent valves, the first guy should have R&R'd the head and replaced the valves as part of the first repair.

 
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05-22-02, 03:05 PM   #8  
I did not say they did the job properly in not checking for bent valves,what I meant is the guy who did the work was not the one who bent them.But this is beside the point as I checked and it is not an interferance engine.So once again the camshafts are most likely out of phase.Usually on multiple cam engines,that run rough,use gas,suffer from low power and other vacuum related problems after a timing belt replacement the cams are not in phase.Some belts have white lines on them to match up with timing marks.Wfleeming take it back and make them pull the timing cover and prove to you the cams and crank are aligned properly to the respective marks.

 
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05-22-02, 04:22 PM   #9  
wfleming
Both shops did a compression check in trying to diagnose the first problem both got readings of 125-130lbs in each cylinder. I know that he also replaced the cam sensor. I did hear on the radio today that autozone did free code readings I'll go check them out.
P.S. My friend also thought that they did not align the timing marks correctly on at least one cam. i tried to get the second mechanic to open it up to inspect it. He said forget it!! Unless I was willing to pay for it. He said for all he knew it was running that way before he got it since i towed it in to him. I was also wondering if maybe they had some vacuum hoses disconnected and didn't hook them back up right. because my cruise control hasn't worked since I got it back either. ??????

 
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05-22-02, 04:45 PM   #10  
Joe_F
Jumping around to shops to get things repaired makes it tough and it gets expensive. Shops frown on redoing other shops rework and it shows in the bill. They have to start from square one and assume that nothing done is likely right.

Go back to the first guy and explain the problem. Explain that his repair didn't fix the problem and it seems worse.

Get the warranty company involved now too. They are the ones that wanted the second opinion, so tell them where it's gotten you and subsequently they should be involved to help straighten it out.

 
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05-22-02, 05:10 PM   #11  
i would take it to a different shop have it diagnossed and dispute the bill if it has anything to do with the timing belt not being installed correctly or if it was out of time, ask around see who people recomend taking there cars to be repaired and as towguy says call a towing service and see where they tow the most vehicles to is a good sign they are reputable, the car shouldnt of never of left the lot if the car was running rough after all you already paid them for a diagnossis if the engine had any other problems they should of told you about them.

 
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05-22-02, 05:21 PM   #12  
I would like to know how in the hell they got these kind of compression readings on a engine with valves that were not working.I would like to meet these guys and ask some questions.But if I were you I would make them explain how they got those readings without the timing belt turning the cams.It is impossible due to the laws of physics.Im a technician and I try to help and give both sides the benefit of the doubt,but I think I WOULD SUE THESE GUYS.Where I live in PA you have a good case against them.

 
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05-22-02, 09:57 PM   #13  
Ok, not an interface engine, so no bent valves to worry about. You are having symptoms of a vacuum leak, as you indicated earlier. The cruise and the A/C controls will not properly function with a vacuum leak, and it will also cause running problems. If you get your codes checked and come back with a map sensor code and/or O2 sensor code, it strengthens the vacuum leak theory. The vacuum problem could be a broken or disconnected hose, a bad gasket, or incorrect valve timing.

I'm sorry to hear about your experience with the mechanic who did the work. He obviously is not a man who takes pride in doing his work right, and running a fair and honest shop. On one hand, you want him to make good on his work. On the other hand, you wonder if he messed up this much changing a timing belt, how much more will he mess up the next time? Especially if he knows that he's not going to get paid for it this time around. I would dispute the bill like Davo says, get your money by whatever means necessary, and take it to someone reputable.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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