Welcome to the DoItYourself Forums!

To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. It's free!

superduty rear end


robichjr's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

06-19-02, 04:15 PM   #1  
robichjr
superduty rear end

Can anyone testify to the difficulty in changing the rear drive shaft seal on the diff of a 2000 superduty. I am about to do just that and wanted to know what I was in for. I've done it on other vehicles and had no trouble. It's just that it's one of those "too late to turn back now" jobs.
Thanks

 
Sponsored Links
GallopingGoose's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

06-19-02, 06:41 PM   #2  
GallopingGoose
92 Voyager no A C or radiator fans

Thanks for your prompt reply. Yes, the fuses are good and my mechanic ran power directly to the fans. They both work.


Last edited by knuckles; 06-19-02 at 10:19 PM.
 
Joe_F's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

06-20-02, 03:45 AM   #3  
Joe_F
SuperDuty guy: If you do it without the Ford Service manual at your side, you're cooked. A job like this requires the OEM manual for the proper procedures. See the link at the bottom of my signature file for where to get it.

Also the truck is a 2000 model. If it were mine, Ford would be eating this repair under warranty for free.

Other poster: Something got mixed up in the posts. This reply doesn't go with this post.

 
knuckles's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

06-20-02, 11:24 PM   #4  
knuckles
Joe,

A Super Duty is a commercial vehicle. Lord only knows under what conditions it has been used or how many miles it has on it. A 2000 model is nearly 3 years old & could have 100K miles or more. Unless it is a low mileage vehicle (<40K),or the owner buys several new Fords on a regular basis, why should Ford eat the repair?

Where does a manufacturer's responsibility end?

 
Joe_F's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

06-21-02, 05:48 AM   #5  
Joe_F
Considering that all the vehicles I own have the original rear ends in them, the rear should last the life of the truck .

We don't know how many miles on the vehicle, that's true. If I owned a 2000 vehicle, commercial or not (no guarantee this SD isn't used for pleasure use.....), Ford would be eating this repair. More so if I bought a fleet of trucks from them, or if there were known problems in Alldata.com

If you let a manufacturer off the hook because "it's commercial", they will continue to produce substandard components. The powertrain should last the useable life of the vehicle, even under commercial conditions. If it doesn't, it's not heavy enough or designed right in my belief.

My .02

 
otter_'s Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

06-21-02, 06:06 AM   #6  
otter_
here we go again....

"if you let the mfg off the hook...."

technically mfg is off the hook once warranty expires, or we'd all be paying a lot more for the product.

customer has to take responsiblity at some point, unless the issue at hand is a KNOWN design flaw.

Hey Circuit City and Sony? My TV's a year out of warranty....will you fix it because I feel I shouldn't let you off the hook? No? How strange....

 
Joe_F's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

06-21-02, 07:59 AM   #7  
Joe_F
Are there known problems with that unit? If yes, the answer is that there's a design flaw, period. A 2000 model year truck should have no powertrain problems through 100k. If there is a special maintenance schedule involved, that needs to be followed, that's for sure.

Funny that if one vehicle doesn't have that same problem and another competitive one does, guess who's likely to lose a customer? .

If properly designed, there shouldn't be any powertrain issues in so new of a truck.

Should my friend's mother have had to pay 1200 bucks for the head gasket for her 1997 Stratus at 40,000 miles? How many cars blow head gaskets at 40k? None, it's a poor design. The proof is that the gasket has been redesigned FOUR times from Chrysler.

If the bar isn't raised on the product, you'll just have shoddy product at high prices, nothing more. Even after the warranty if you just throw your hands up and say "well it's out of warranty, I'm beat", the manufacturer has stuck you with a bad design and you've accepted it. Your balliwick, but not mine .

More so if the manufacturer's interval is to change the fluid every 100k. If they are saying, "It's good to 100k", then there's no upkeep involved. It therefore should last 100k....and never have to be cracked open before then for any problems.

Newsflash: You're already paying more for the same design when there's a known problem and it's carried over to the next model year without change. With very few exceptions, things go UP in price and if they aren't improved in the process, you're already paying more for junk.

My .02.

 
robichjr's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

06-21-02, 03:29 PM   #8  
robichjr
just a question

I didn't intend to start a confrontation. I appreciate the first reply. I found it to be the only one that was remotely helpful, which I thought was the purpose of this forum.
To clarify for everyone, the vehicle is 2000 miles out of warranty, used for light commercial applications, mostly for personal transportation, and does get subjected to off road use. I waited too long to get it to the dealer for service when I noticed the seapage on the rear end.
I was really hoping to hear from someone who has had a similar problem and replaced the seal on the differential themselves. I previously owned a Jeep and did this job several times on it. The Dana 40 was pretty easy to deal with, I'm just not familiar enough with the 50 to know what to expect.

 
davo's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,417

06-21-02, 06:28 PM   #9  
If you are going to do it yourself a pinion seal is a pinion seal in my belief however be sure to follow service manual closely.You don't want to overtighten the pinion nut and change the pinion depth.That would damage the differential.

 
otter_'s Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

06-21-02, 07:28 PM   #10  
otter_
robich jr,

depending on the relationship you have with your Ford dealer and the service history of the truck, you may want to approach them about fixing the seal before busting your knuckles. If the truck is only 2000k out of warranty and you've been doing some of your servicing and/or warranty work there, they may be willing to play ball (eg. extend goodwill and cover the repair, $100 deductible, 50/50 etc.) Bear in mind, it's their call as to whether or not they are going to step up to the plate.

And no, you didn't start a confrontation. Knuckles raised a good point and Joe_F and I differ on what is realistic and what isn't vis a vis corporate responsibility.

 
Joe_F's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

06-22-02, 01:07 PM   #11  
Joe_F
See that ? Now knowing more detail helps.

With that low of mileage, in my mind you have defective parts. This is a truck. It is made to haul, take a load and pull. It sounds like you are really easy with the truck and take good care of it. In such case, I believe Ford should eat your repair. Especially so if they want your business again, or you buy multiple trucks from the same dealer/marque.

That being said, I believe a company should do what's right to avoid a headache.

Ford denied for years there was a problem with their distributor mounted TFI modules. Now, some 20 years later, they are eating repairs through a class action settlement.

As the Fram commercial says, "You can pay me now or later ".

Ford chose the latter and it has bitten them unfortunately.

Otter: If the point is strictly "responsibility", then there would be no such thing as goodwill. Those companies wouldn't likely have many customers either because if something happens after the warranty, it kinda looks like it might have been designed that way. Certain things should last a long time on a vehicle. The basic running gear is one of them. With many new cars, they are saying you can go 100k on a tranny fluid change . So what's there to do? In my mind they should last that long

No confrontation taken. Not a problem .

 
chadtoolio's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

06-22-02, 05:38 PM   #12  
chadtoolio
Hi Robichjr,


If you replace the pinion seal you could affect the pinion bearing adjustment, but should not affect pinion depth, as the shims for the pinion depth are controlled by the shims between the inner pinion bearing and the pinion..

I have rebuilt several rear differentials of various makes and to my knowledge there are 2 ways to make the pinion adjustment(bearing tension) procedures.

1. There is a crush that is collapsed to allow the two pinion bearings to come together and allow the proper tension on the pinion bearings. If you have one of these, I would suggest removing the carrier to correctly "tension" the bearings.

2. There are shims in between the outer pinion bearing and the pinion and removing and installing the shims changes the tension on the bearings. Unless you remove the shims, you shouldn't change the bearing tension and will be fine.

I have to ask a question though, why is fluid leaking? Is the pinion loose?

And I also agree with Joe, I would take it back to the dealer and talk with the service manager.

I am doing a 7000 dollar repair right now on a car that is out of warranty by mileage and date, but the dealer/manufacturer is "goodwilling" it.

Ford doesn't need the dissatisfied customers..

good luck

 
Search this Thread