radiator fan not turning on

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  #1  
Old 06-28-02, 09:27 AM
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radiator fan not turning on

93 Buick Century 3.3 6cylinder engine. The fan is not coming on when the engine gets hot I've changed the relay and that didn't help the situation. I also put in a switch that bypasses the whole system however I'd like to get it working properly.
 
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Old 06-28-02, 09:38 AM
xiii13
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Did you check the temp sensor? Cheap enough to replace.
 
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Old 06-28-02, 11:08 AM
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My friend brought over a popular mechanics from April 1999 and it has an article on electric cooling fan problems. and it kind of covers everything so I'll be off to check out the system. Thanks
 
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Old 06-28-02, 03:17 PM
Joe_F
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If you bring power directly from the battery to the fan does it operate?
 
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Old 06-29-02, 07:57 AM
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Joe, yes the fan does operate with current from the battery, going out now to try and tackle this.
 
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Old 06-29-02, 01:57 PM
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today I started working on the fan and got sidetracked, changing anti freeze and hoses. I also put in a fuse between the battery and switch. The original fuse was 10 amps I put one in and it immediately blew. I then went to 15 amps and that blew now I have a 20 in and its holding but I'm wondering why I blew the lesser fuses??????
 
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Old 06-29-02, 02:14 PM
Joe_F
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Because there's an overload somewhere. Do not use a larger amp fuse to substitute for a smaller one. The ratings are there for a reason.

Have you checked www.autolibrary.org to see what they have on the circuitry? Usually the relay, the fan itself or the coolant sensor/fan switch.
 
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Old 06-29-02, 02:23 PM
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if you mean the fuse that is not factory that you have installed with a toggle switch it is because the fan pulls alot of amps and uses a fusible link wire as the fuse from the factory which is capable of handling alot more amperage than a normal car fuse.
your coolant temp sensor which has two wires going to it a black and yellow tells the ecm what temp the engine is running and the ecm will then ground your cooling fan relay when the coolant temp sensor is telling the ecm it is between 225 and 235 degrees farenheight to energize the relay and kick on the cooling fan, you should have two power wires at the cooling fan relay a key on power and a full time battery power the other wires runs to ecm and to cooling fan, if you ground the aldl connector under the dash it should test the cooling fan circuit you put a jumper in between the a nad b on the aldl connector just as you would if you were checking codes turn the key on and the fan should run if it doesnt make sure you have both a battery and a key on power at the relay. if it does run you have narrowed it down to the coolant sensor or the ecm assuming the engine is actually overheating and you have a way to check the actual temperature of the coolant and have determined it to be over 235 degrees.
 
  #9  
Old 06-30-02, 10:42 AM
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The fuse is not factory, just something I put between the fan and the switch. I wired one wire from the fan to ground and the other wire (the hot) from the battery, through a non factory fuse, something I put in. Then from the fuse a heavy duty switch and finally back to the other wire on the fan. I actually prefer this as I live in the city (Manhattan) and put the fan on before the car gets hot. Myself and my wife are the only drivers and know the system. I was wondering why the fuse is 10 amp in the fuse box and much larger outside the fuse box. The wire on the fan looks to be #12 which I found out is rated to carry 20 amps.
 
  #10  
Old 06-30-02, 08:09 PM
Joe_F
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I suggest a good schematic of the system. Sometimes, the wiring or fusible link gets frayed from age. You can then pinpoint it quickly and replace the offending part.
 
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