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Grand Voyager Dies!!


Gary's_wife's Avatar
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07-12-02, 05:25 PM   #1  
Gary's_wife
Grand Voyager Dies!!

Please help.....lots of problems.....little money.....
1993 Plymouth Grand Voyager 3.3L Just over 100,000 miles. Long list of problems: Transmisson would not shift after driving a short distance for instance, it would do fine until I got to a stop sign about 2 miles away then it would not shift from 1st to 2nd gear. I could pull off road turn engine off and wait a minute then restart and it would be fine for a short distance more. I took it to a trans repair shop. He rebuild it. Still major problems. Took it back a total of 4 times. He said sometimes they have to redo them, which he said he did. But after the last visit I had a new problem it died while slowing on an exit ramp. Had to be towed. That shop said it was low on oil (which it had never used oil) but they felt it might be fuel pump. It started with loud pecking noise. Towed it to dealer they could not find any problem. Pecking had stopped when computer reset. Drove home fine. Next week had to tow to dealership. They then felt it was fuel pump. So new fuel pump, fuel sending unit, wiring assembly, inline fuel filter installed. Drove fine for about another week. Died while exiting interstate. Finally got started, we got back on interstate, did fine as long as we were at interstate speed. When we got to our exit it died on ramp. Had to be towed to dealership. They said it was the battery. Bought new battery. But it is still not fixed. For months I have only been driving short distances. I have learned it dies when hot but when allowed to cool it starts right up. So I never drive it more than a couple miles from home. I have had a lot of advice, but I have no more money to pay towing and dealersship. Any help will be appreciated. One suggestion was clean throttle body and it did help for a day or two. Each thing we do seems to be a temp fix. Someone suggested coil pack.

 
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07-12-02, 07:47 PM   #2  
well when the vehicle dies does the starter turn the engine over okay but just will not start?
could be alot of things you need to narrow the problem down by seeing if you have spark when the engine does not start and if you have fuel pressure, you can usually rent a fuel pressure guage from some parts stores and there is a schrader fitting on the fuel rail it doesnt take very long to check, and you can use a test light hooked to the negative on the battery to check for spark just pull a plug wire off at the coil and hold the test light about 1/2 inch away from coil tower while holding onto the insulated handle of the test light have someone crank the engine over to determine if it is firing. also should see if you have any codes in your computer that may help to find the problem. coil pack isn't likely to be the problem you basicly have three coils in the coil pack and i dont see them all failing at once.

 
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07-12-02, 07:49 PM   #3  
Joe_F
Whoa, lots of parts thrown at the problem. Eeek. You've spent more than the vehicle is worth unfortunately, so it looks like you might be stuck with this thing for the long haul.

I think the Chrysler dealer owes you some money back. Sounds like what they did didn't fix the problem and neither did the trans shop.

Chrysler 4 speed overdrive units are complete junk from day 1 and rebuilts are problematic too, so I can see how you've had "do it again Sam" (bring it back) trouble with them

If you're able to drive a short distance before it dies, it may be ignition related. When the parts heat up, they can't get rid of the heat and they shut down. That can be checked. Next time it happens, pull off a spark plug wire and see if you have spark or not at the plug. If you don't, your problem is surely ignition related.

My .02 is fix it, drive it for a while and pitch it before it soaks you again. 100k on a Chrysler minivan is borrowed time. They have always been problem ridden and of lackluster quality.

 
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07-12-02, 07:55 PM   #4  
A mechanic at a shop down the road from my house has asked me about the same problem with the same vehicle, a few years younger. No codes were set, it just gradually but quickly died, as if letting off the accelerator until the engine just dies. We have not discovered the problem yet. (yesterday was when he first discussed the prob w/me). I thought fuel pump too, but he said fuel pressure is fine, even when it dies. I wonder if there is a TSB about this? I am thingking it may have a pressure regulator problem, if he tested pressure before the regulator. Ignition is working fine.

If you find out the solution first, please post your findings....as I will if I find out the problem.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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07-12-02, 08:37 PM   #5  
knuckles
100k on a Chrysler minivan is borrowed time. They have always been problem ridden and of lackluster quality.

Sorry Joe, but there are way too many Chrysler minivans on the road w/ in excess of 100k miles for that statement to be true.

My wife's '91 Grand Caravan 3.3L has about 150K on it. Yes, I had to replace the trans at 138K & it had been rebuilt by the previous owner at approx. 70K miles. The only thing I've had to replace besides the trans is the headliner & I knew that it was bad when I bought the van. I plan on replacing the struts, shocks & tires this fall, but they're all normal wear items.

One of my coworkers has an '88 3.0L 3spd. Caravan w/ 190K on it. It is (miracle of all miracles) just beginning to smoke at idle. It has survived all the abuse his wife & 2 kids can throw at it as well as a 70 MPH collision w/ a deer on the PA turnpike. He repaired the minor body damage from the deer & will replace the heads w/ reman units (to remedy the smoking) later this year.

I've found the quality of our minivan to be no worse (but sadly, no better) than any other early '90s domestic car/light truck. The OD transmissions were problematic until '96. '97 & up Chrysler reman. transmissions seem to be MUCH better than the original units.

I don't really enjoy driving the thing, but I'll have to say that it can't be beat for versatility & convenience. I'll agree that the design is lackluster (a box-on-wheels supported by a glorified k-car suspension) but the quality is on par w/ other domestic cars of the same era.

All in all, these vans are a pretty good value if you buy them right (no mid-'80s models & no 4 cyls, esp. turbos) and maintain them properly.

 
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07-13-02, 07:02 AM   #6  
Gary's_wife
More Info on Voyager

Hello everyone. Thankyou for all the replies. I agree I have spent too much to ditch the van now. Of course until this all started it had been a wonderful family vehicle. Very reliable. Actually I had spent nothing except money on oil changes, tires, and brake pads. Of course my hubby wants me to fix it and trade because he says he will always worry about me and kids being out in it. However right now I can't afford to trade so I need to get this problem fixed. I certainly pray Cheese can narrow the problem down. If we figure anything out we will pass it along. Ok to fill you in on the syptoms: As I said interstate speed we are great. When slowing to a stop it dies. You almost don't even realize it is dead until you try to move. We try to start it. It turns over and almost starts. Cranks great. Some times while trying to start it we hear gas bubbling in the gas tank. But there is no starting until it cools down or the next day.

 
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07-13-02, 09:19 PM   #7  
Joe_F
You might have a vapor lock condition. Sounds fuel related if you can hear "bubbling" in the tank like that. Have that rechecked by the dealer who installed the pump for you.

Knuckles: Two trannies in 150k is lackluster quality . The tranny should have lasted 150k or at least to 100k with no problems. My neighbor's 1991 S10 Blazer has that mileage on one transmission and it has been lent to customers, hauled a jet ski a couple of summers, been used to haul and in construction projects. It looks like hell after being in about 10 accidents, and it's just starting to smoke on startup . I credit the "lending it to customers" practice of my neighbor for how it got abused. I remember driving that same truck in 1992 with 7k miles on it .

As for the 3.0, he got a good one, and eventually the smoking won out, those are horrific oil burning winners, ask Cheese .

I do not want to pay for a Becks beer and get a Corona if you know what I mean (I don't even drink...lol). In other words a Caravan with mechanical basics of a Kcar is like buying a Sterling and finding out it's a Honda (albeit a problem ridden one) underneath it. Platform engineering is one thing, but taking the K car and mapping it to whole product line is ludicrous. Lol.

There's 100k+ Chrysler minivans on the road because there are a ton of them, a few lucky ones, and some unfortunate owners like our poster who got soaked by repairs and can't bail out of it.

You have to remember Knuckles, you and I are in the trade. Either of us could make a Yugo last forever for 10 bucks. Lol.

 
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07-26-02, 08:54 PM   #8  
Gary's_wife
Hello Cheese
Any luck with the Voyager you were checking out?? So far we are still stumped here. Is there any hope??????????

 
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07-27-02, 11:46 PM   #9  
Sorry, I've been quite busy during the days lately, and haven't gotten back over to the guy's shop. He has been working on it, I do know that. I will stop by, probably monday, and see If he managed to find a solution. The problem with this van may not be the same as yours, but the symptoms seem to be the same. (other than the bubbling in the fuel tank).

By chance, when it does start, does it blow a large puff of black smoke?


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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07-28-02, 05:24 AM   #10  
Gary's_wife
I have never noticed a puff of black smoke. But it sure sounds awful the first time it starts after it has cooled. The motor pecks something terrible but then in a couple minutes it is okay. Someone told me that is the computer resetting the idle. Thanks for all your help cheese. (by the way the guy that was going to sell us the briggs motor for our Huskee let us have the whole Murray for $125, mowed with it yesterday)

 
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07-29-02, 10:46 AM   #11  
transman2u
you said that your engine had a Pecking sound and that the trans has been out a few times may be the crank sensor some times they get damaged or not set back in right during the r&r of the the unit just a though my helper seems to do this a lot lol

 
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07-29-02, 07:24 PM   #12  
Gary's_wife
Thankyou Transman2u The crank sensor..... That makes sense because this all started after all the trans problems. The last time I had the van to the trans shop the repair guy/owner would not come out and talk to me. My 90 day warranty was almost over on the repair job (which the 90 days was used returning the van over and over) but he told the receptionist to tell me he would not give me another 90 days because his warranties started on the 1st day of rebuild even if they had to go back into it during the 90 days. Anyway I had always told my hubby I thought those guys did something to my van. Would the crank sensor cause it to only die when hot and start when cool? I appreciate you sharing the info with me.

 
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07-29-02, 07:50 PM   #13  
transman2u
could be if the air gap was not wright just had one come in on the hook today from another shop would not idle when hot they broke the crank sensor and tried to super glue it back together some people

 
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07-29-02, 09:02 PM   #14  
thekeymaker
also when was the last time a tune up was done. try what transman said to do and see if your hubby can put it on for you to save you more money also have you replaced your fuel filter yet. also you might want to check your computer chips to.

 
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07-31-02, 10:46 PM   #15  
Well, I talked to my friend at the shop down the street. He said the computer was bad....or at least replacing it solved the problem, lol. He said it did the same pecking noise you described when it started back up. he also said that the diagnostic reader he had hooked up to it would start to lose communication w/the car when the problem occurred. I would make sure all of your connections at the computer bulkhead connection are tight and clean. Also check your computer grounds. You don't want to incurr the expense of a new pcm if you don't need one.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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08-01-02, 03:37 AM   #16  
Joe_F
The computer (PCM) can be sent out through an auto parts store to an electronics remanufacturer for testing of fault before damning it as bad!

I would go that route first as Cheese stated before throwing a computer at the problem.

 
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