top dead centeron 170 eng. get it running

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  #1  
Old 07-16-02, 03:55 PM
jessthepest
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top dead centeron 170 eng. get it running

my rebuilt 170 ford engine with hydrolic lifters can get it running it cranks but will not run. have lined up the dots on both gears with
chain on and have rotor pointed to No# 1 cyl.
I've even sprayed start up fluid in the carb to no avail, engine just seem's to be cranking only. has spark, has fuel.( the fuel pump is mark "out" and "in " I have fuel from tank on the out line connector and the "in " line goes to the carb is that right ? I don't think so. in either csae I do not think fuel is the problem.
I'm thinking hydrolic lifters!

I heard that there is no adjustment to them but in order to get the proper clearence the lifter must be resting on the base of the camshaft lobe to obtain the proper valve setting for that paticular cylinder. what do you think ? will that get it running ? checking that fuel line won't hurt either.

thank you.
 
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  #2  
Old 07-16-02, 04:31 PM
JackMaster
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Jess,

Sounds like the crank/cam are not aligned properly. Joe_f or one of you fulltime pro's, please correct if I am wrong.

The crankshaft must be on TDC of #1 cylinder. This is accomplished by lining the timing mark on the harmonic balancer with the TDC mark on the timing plate attached to the timing chain cover. The cam must be positioned where both intake and exhaust valves of #1 cylinder are fully seated. Once this has been done and the chain installed, the rotor should be on #1 if you did not remove the distributor.

Even if the gears are not aligned properly, you will get spark, because the distributor is still being turned by the cam. Changing the timing chain/gear does not affect fuel.
 
  #3  
Old 07-16-02, 04:34 PM
JackMaster
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Oh ya, forgot to address the fuel pump question....

The line coming from the tank should connect to "IN" and the line to the carb should be connected to "OUT".
 
  #4  
Old 07-23-02, 02:27 PM
jessthepest
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I am an Idiot! but I'm learning. the reason my 170 engine did not want to start is that I had the rotor pointing towards the number one clyinder...On the engine! not the distributor cap!! once I figured it out that puppy just kick over like a champ! I better slow down and take it one step at a time. anyway I got an other miner problem, I lost the 4 bolts that attach my three speed to the bell houseing on my 61 econoline(same vehical!) did some research found out there size is 3/8 by 2 1/4, does that sound right to you guys ? I won't tell you what happen when I just used to inferior bolts(as I was in a rush again!) engine(drivetrain) shook like a washing machine! I imeadiately turned off the ignition, checked under the van and the trans was separated by about 1/16th of an inch.




.
 
  #5  
Old 07-23-02, 05:44 PM
Joe_F
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Ford MIGHT still have the bolts in their line as standard hardware items (they usually have part numbers that start with N or are all numbers). If you visit an old time dealer with an old parts book, they should be able to dig up a part # and tell you if it's still valid or not. If it is, you're in luck, shouldn't be more than a few days for the right stuff.

If not, they may be able to tell you what other years use the same part and you know what you look for in the boneyard. If you have a sample, an auto parts store should also be able to match up a generic bolt with the right dimensions/strength.
 
  #6  
Old 07-23-02, 09:25 PM
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Location: Louisiana
Posts: 438
Go to your local "bolt house" and give them the size of the bolt and tell them you want it in a "Grade 8". You won't have any further problems.
 
  #7  
Old 07-24-02, 12:40 PM
jessthepest
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Thank you all for the help! this place(site) is a great information resource on autos. thanks for taking the time, even for the minutest questions. I will return with more dump question in the future.

P.S.
can I ask questions about my harley ? sportster 1984(early 84).
Iron head ? I just had the motor rebuilt including the four speed
trans. I need to clean(degrease the frame and polish the motor mounts etc. ect.
So If I have any problems may I contact you guys ?
Thanks again!
 
  #8  
Old 07-24-02, 01:12 PM
Joe_F
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There's a motorcycle and ATV forum. The Harley question goes there.
 
  #9  
Old 07-26-02, 11:47 AM
jessthepest
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ABOUT THE TRANS BOLTS(4) TO THE BELL HOUSE'IN ON MY 61 ECO i SPOKE WITH FORD THEY ASSURED ME BOLT SIZE OF 3/8...
"WRONG !" 7/16TH ISTHE BOLT SIZE. THE 3/8 FELT A BIT FUNNIE, LOSE IN FACT BUT i KEPT SCREWING' EM IN, TRUSTING FORD , AFTER ALL THEY WOULD KNOW, ANYWAY THE BOLT DID FINDLY GET TIGHT. i SHOULD OF KNOWN SOMETHING WAS WRONG WHEN THE LAST 3/8 BOLT KIND'DA STRIPPED. ANYWAY 7/16 BOLT JUIST FELT PERFECT GOING IN.

O.K. GOING ON, THE DRIVE SHAFT HAS A SLIP YOKE, DOES THAT END FACE THE FRONT(ENGINE) OR THE REAR( AXEL) ?
HAD IT FACEING FRONT, STARTED ENGINE, THE WHOLE DRIVETRAIN SHOOK LIKE A WASHING! COULD BE THEM 3/8 BOLTS(WILL REPLACE WITH 7/16) AND COULD BE THE U-BOLTS ON DRIVSHAFT THOUGH i'M PRETTY SURE i TIGHEN THEM( ALL 4, TWO NUTS EACH)
WOULD THE PILITE BEARING/BUSHING HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH THE SHAKING ?
WOULD THE PILITE BUSHING/BEARING JUST DROP OR DOES IT HVE TO BE WORKED ON IN ORDER TO GET IT OUT? AS i DID NOT CHECK. i'M HOPEING IT'S STILL THERE.

THANKS AGAIN.
 
  #10  
Old 07-26-02, 12:47 PM
JackMaster
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Hey Jess,

Time to come clean. We need the whole story here!

What exactly did you do when you started this project?
It sounds to me like you pulled the motor or dropped the tranny and changed the clutch. We need to know EXACTLY what you have done here. I mean we need every minute detail...... Telling us one thing at a time is only going to prolong your pain and frustration. Alot of times what you have done at one point with one component (or components) will affect others down the line.

I understand you changed the timing chain and gears and now the engine 'kicks over like a champ" as you put it. How long did you let the engine run when you got it started? Did it run smoothly? Was the transmission coupled to the engine at this point?

You have got to help us if you want us to help you.
 
  #11  
Old 07-26-02, 01:24 PM
jessthepest
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Sorry! I exchanged engines. the original 170 for a rebuild one. it looks exactly like the original one. except for the carb and fuel pump. I used the orignal carb due to linkage set-up. the fuel pump has a filter on top unlike the original.
what year do you think it is ?
 
  #12  
Old 07-26-02, 02:20 PM
JackMaster
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Not sure of the year of the fuel pump. Maybe Joe_F will come along and be able to tell you.

My questions to you are:

1) did the vehicle shake like a washer before you changed motors? Why did you change motors?

2) did you change the clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing and pilot bushing before installing the replacement motor? If so, did you in fact change all of the components listed or just some of them if any? Did you have the flywheel resurfaced? By the way which flywheel did you use, the one that was in the van or one that came with the engine you put in the van?

3) are you sure all of the needle bearings were still in the caps of the u-joints and were the caps properly seated in the yolks and saddle clamps before tightening the bolts down?

4) what condition are the motor mounts and tranny mounts in? Are the bolts tight? Are the bushings (rubber) cracked, worn, still there?
 
  #13  
Old 07-26-02, 09:14 PM
Joe_F
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Thumbs up

Mike is right on with this one.
 
  #14  
Old 07-29-02, 11:14 AM
jessthepest
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Engine shook due to 3/8 instead of 7/16 trans bolts used.
have since replace them. started engine and it crank up and runs nice. can now take a timing lite to it and get it running as smooth as possible.

Maybe in the future some time I can exchange my six for an eight clyinder I hear the main thing is to get that crossmember just right in order to set that 289 right in there. now that's a project!

thanks for the help and I will always come back with car questions as they arise! vaaavoooommmm!
 
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