geo metro

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  #1  
Old 07-16-02, 09:20 PM
cfink1
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Angry geo metro

I have a '92 Geo Metro with a 1.0L 3 cylinder. The timing belt lost several teeth, about 4 inches worth. I replaced the belt and it would not run. I checked the compression, and it was uneven in the cylinders, from 190psi down to 115 or so. I replaced the cylinder head with a used one, complete with valves, cam, etc. I replaced the valve seals, cleaned the valves up, replaced all of the gaskets, etc, put it back together and am having issues. It only runs on #1 and #3 cylinders, and just barely. It blows white smoke out of the intake manifold and pops hard when i can get it to run. It runs the same if I have the #2 plug wire connected or not. I have replaced all plug wires and plugs. I get spark on the #2 wire when i ground it, it will jump 2 inches from that wire. When pull the plug, it is wet with fuel. How can I have spark, fuel, timing marks all aligned, 2 cylinders running and not have #2 cylinder working? the engine has 114000 miles on it and until now was doing well. Compression in all 3 cylinders is 150 psi. pistons are all cleaned up, valves are all moving freely. I am lost lost lost lost lost and cannot afford to buy anything else. Any ideas?
 
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  #2  
Old 07-16-02, 09:54 PM
Joe_F
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How's your fuel pressure? If you put a timing light on #2, does it flash erratically or is it consistent? How's the cap and rotor and other tune up items?

Whoa Nelley on putting parts and money into this shoe. You've already spent WAY more than it's worth in TIME alone.
 
  #3  
Old 07-16-02, 10:09 PM
cfink1
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i didn't check the timing on it, have swapped caps and rotors between the several I have lying around, all do the same thing. it seems that the fuel injector isn't firing at the right time on #2, but i can't imagine how, it's a throttle body. i'll probably take it apart again and find a dead mouse in the #2 intake runner or something stupid like that. time is an issue, this is getting old, but so far the cost has been under $250. So far
 
  #4  
Old 07-17-02, 06:07 AM
Joe_F
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Have you checked the operation of the injector with a noid light?
 
  #5  
Old 07-17-02, 10:52 AM
JackMaster
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I have a sneak'n suspicion the timing is not quite right.... The reason I say this is I dealt with the same thing on the same model/year/1.0L about 5 years ago. The timing marks on the cam and crank must be aligned EXACT and the distributor replaced with the rotor contact lined up with #1 contact of the distributor cap. If either timing gear is even 1 tooth off, the result will be what you are experiencing. Go to Joe_F reply and click the cyberrparts link. Enter your vehicle info and you will find great pictures and instructions for installing the belt correctly. Now, I suppose it could be something else, but I doubt it. Especially if it ran fine before it stripped the teeth on the old belt. Once you get it started, time it with a light and you should be good to go.
 
  #6  
Old 07-17-02, 11:17 AM
Joe_F
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Rereading it, I would tend to agree with Mike. Sounds like the timing is off (would explain why it loads up one cylinder and runs bad under load and even with #2 disconnected).

Double check your work.
 
  #7  
Old 07-20-02, 02:48 PM
cfink1
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Question

ok, its been apart again, the timing marks are exactly lined up, i put the timing light to all three cylinders. Found that it is only running on #1 cylinder. Little to no spark on #2 or #3 cylinders when the timing light is hooked to them, very erratic at best. I checked the crank angle sensor and the only thing I am thinking is that the ECM is cashed. Any thoughts? What exactly sends the signal to fire each cylinder's spark and to pop the fuel injector at the correct time? That comes from the crank sensor, to the ECM and then out to the various other areas, doesn't it?
 
  #8  
Old 07-20-02, 08:42 PM
Joe_F
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Before damning the computer, check your grounds and power leads for chaffing or issues.

Then, send the computer out for testing through an auto parts store to see if it tests OK or not before you plunk down the green for a new one.
 
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